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Maximizing Efficiency when Batch Sparging

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I've never seen a measurable mash efficiency difference between two different malts mashed with reasonable mash parameters. Some malts have greater/lesser potential extract (aka potential yield) (as measured/stated in Points per Pounds per Gallon (PPG)), but that's not efficiency. It's important to use the right specs for each malt when computing (manually or in software) the potential extract, because if we don't, any subsequent mash efficiency calculations won't be valid.

If you are convinced that Simpsons Extra Pale is somehow special in regards to mash efficiency, could you share your data, including recipes, PPG numbers used, and measured results (gravities and measured (not planned) volumes) for both Simpsons Extra Pale and whatever malt you are comparing it to?
There is a possibility that the Simpsons Extra Pale gelatinizes more easily than other malts (barley variety or vintage effect?). This could give better conversion efficiency (percent/fraction of potential extract that actually gets created as actual extract in the mash) than other malts under the same crush/time/temp/pH conditions. This would improve mash efficiency, since mash efficiency equals conversion efficiency times lauter efficiency. The take-away is that OP may have been using too short a mash time with their other malts, and not getting 100% conversion.

Brew on :mug:
 
Reviving this (very helpful) thread. Sorry if I missed it somwhere in the 13 pages of info, but is there a commonly accepted minimum amount of time for a batch sparging?

I'm relatively new to homebrewing (about 6 batches under my belt) and was enjoying ~72% efficiency on all but the first of my prior brews. However, I brewed a beer over the weekend and had a very disappointing ~65% efficiency, taking a 1.050 OG golden ale down to 1.042 OG.

I hit all my temps perfectly, and it felt like a smoothe brew day until that OG reading. The only potential weakness that I can think of is that right around the time of sparging, my 10 month old son needed my attention, so I rushed the sparge by draining out all of my first runnings, dumping my sparge water in and immediately started draining without a meaningful rest period.

I assume the shortened sparge time resulted in fewer fermentable sugars being extracted. So, I'd be grateful for any thoughts on whether this sounds like the likely culprit to more experienced brewers, and if so, how long do you typically batch sparge for in order to hit whatever your "optimal" efficiency is?
 
so I rushed the sparge by draining out all of my first runnings, dumping my sparge water in and immediately started draining without a meaningful rest period.
As @doug293cz wrote in post #483, complete draining of the (first) runnings followed by adding sparge water and stirring it thoroughly (which takes some time and effort) is the best way.

I reckon, since you were in a hurry and distracted, you may not even have fully drained the tun either. That combined with not stirring thoroughly after adding the sparge water, you very likely didn't extract the full potential of sugars from the grist.

Speaking of batch sparging...
Performing 2 successive batch sparges (volume split evenly) with fully draining each one, is even more efficient than a single sparge with the full volume. That's what I've been doing, enjoying around total 85% mash efficiency with 1.050-1.060-some worts (before boil). Just make sure the pH of the mash/wort, [added] especially during the 2nd sparge, remains under 6.0, to avoid extracting (unwanted) tannins. More important when sparging hot, over 170F.

Here's some good reading on that topic, paying special attention to posts by @ajdelange and @mabrungard:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/acidify-sparge-water-or-not.537938/
 
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As @doug293cz wrote in post #483, complete draining of the (first) runnings followed by adding sparge water and stirring it thoroughly (which takes some time and effort) is the best way.

I reckon, since you were in a hurry and distracted, you may not even have fully drained the tun either. That combined with not stirring thoroughly after adding the sparge water, you very likely didn't extract the full potential of sugars from the grist.

Speaking of batch sparging...
Performing 2 successive batch sparges (volume split evenly) with fully draining each one, is even more efficient than a single sparge with the full volume. That's what I've been doing, enjoying around total 85% mash efficiency with 1.050-1.060-some worts (before boil). Just make sure the pH of the mash/wort during the 2nd sparge remains under 6.0, to avoid extracting (unwanted) tannins. More important when sparging hot, over 170F.

Here's some good reading on that topic, paying special attention to posts by @ajdelange and @mabrungard:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/acidify-sparge-water-or-not.537938/
Thank you very much, appreciate it!
 

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