match the posts to the right corny keg and win a prize!

[twd000]

I have a mix of kegs in my brewery - and I can't tell them apart. Corny and Firestone, Coke and Pepsi, tall skinny kegs and short fat kegs, native ball-lock and pin-locks converted to ball lock.
This weekend I took apart four kegs to clean them and when I went to reassemble, the last liquid post on a Pepsi keg won't fit. I tried swapping around the posts in every conceivable combination, but I'm always left with one that won't fit.

I'm using two of the four for pressure fermentation right now, and they're holding pressure, so they must "fit" but is it possible I have a Firestone post on a Cornelius fitting? Or a Cornelius fitting on a Firestone post? I looked up the thread sizes and some of them are only 1/16" different, so I wonder if the dip tube o-ring is sealing even though the post is a sloppy fit?

Or maybe I have a liquid fitting on a gas post, or vice versa? Can I trust the "IN/OUT" marking stamped on the rubber? I understand some keg types have the same threads on liquid and gas, and others are different threads

Is there a step-by-step way for me to get the right posts back on the appropriate keg? Instead of just guess-and-check?

 

[Yooper]

Or maybe I have a liquid fitting on a gas post, or vice versa? Can I trust the "IN/OUT" marking stamped on the rubber? I understand some keg types have the same threads on liquid and gas, and others are different threads

The "out" posts are slightly different than the "in", always. The threads may be the same, but the gas posts always have little notches on the bottom.

the "in" and "out" markings on the keg don't seem to matter- the threads seem to be the same to me. But the short dip tube (of course) goes in the "in" and then the gas post over it.
It's too late now, but I always clean each keg separately because of this. Even identical Corney or Firestone kegs have different posts and threads at times. Gas parts on the left, beer parts on the right, each keg lined up with their parts.

Take a close look at the posts on all of them, and see why they may be different. Is the reason one doesn't fit due to the spring inside? Maybe that is sticking out too far or something like that.

 

[passedpawn]

The BIG problems are:

• Some posts have different threads (Firestone ugh!) (see this page: What Type/Size Posts Will Fit on My Corny Keg?)
• Some poppets are not compatible with some posts. I used to think this was a myth, but it's not.

The best solution is to just make them all the same by replacing all with new. Unfortunately, with 10 kegs that gets a little pricey. I'm still probably going to do it - have had enough keezers full of beer and empty CO2 tanks over the years to make it economically reasonable.

 

[passedpawn]

I used acrylic markers (these) to mark the OUT and IN on top of the rubber so it was obvious. These paint markers work great - those markings have been on the rubber for over a year, no sign of wear.

Also, use matching-color rubber o-rings

 

[Jayjay1976]

I made this mistake when I purchased a four pack of used kegs, ending up with three types of posts. Not knowing there was a difference I stripped off all the parts and boiled them for a bit, then had a hard time getting the posts straightened out. As others have said, the gas in posts have notches; separate those from the liquid posts and you essentially cut the sorting problem in half.

One other note, I thought I would upgrade all my old kegs with universal poppits and stainless PRVs but they ended up leaking when the orings failed. Luckily I had kept the old parts so I was able to switch them all back. You might have better luck than I did but just wanted to warn you that sometimes upgrading those parts can cause problems.

 

[Deadalus]

I'm like you with a mixture of kegs, several are converted pin-locks, plus multiple sizes, 3, 5, 10, 15 gallons, a race-track lid, and one in particular I am still working on identifying. Not an expert though.

First, check the writing on each of the kegs to help you identify what type they are. There won't always be enough information to do so but this can help.

In identifying your four kegs, we can't be sure that even the two that are working have their original posts on, so include their information. Were any originally pin lock of the four?

Can you pair up the posts exclusively? There are different styles of posts. They don't always look the same. There is sometimes writing on them that would help to pair them.

Can you pair up the poppets? Original poppets may be more indicative of the keg manufacturer but I haven't checked this out yet. The thread size might be the same but the poppets might differ by manufacturer. Again, something I want to check. When you switch from pin locks, the new posts tend to use universal poppets, which are two pieces the spring and the valve.

Pictures would be helpful.

 

[Deadalus]

One thing too is that you may have wore in a post onto a particular keg. Like a little cross-threading or thread damage. Or even an o-ring just fits because it's on that one keg. Could be a bad o-ring or you need keg lube.

 

[twd000]

thanks everyone

yes, I understand that gas and liquid disconnects are different, and I use the notches to tell which is which. Problem is there are no corresponding markings on the keg. When I'm staring at a dissembled keg with two naked posts, it's not clear which should be the liquid side, and which is the gas side. Some of the rubber surrounds have "IN" stamped on the rubber, but I'm not sure if I can trust them. Others don't have any markings on the keg

I'm now convinced that I must have a Firestone fitting on a Cornelius keg or vice versa. The difference between 9/16" and 19/32" is only 1/32" and you could easily get a pretty tight fit with it on the wrong thread with that minor difference. So how do I accurately distinguish a 9/16" post from a 19/32" post? I have a micrometer but even a little bit of slop will give a wrong reading Maybe I can check my tap-and-die set? Or buy a nut and bolt combination from Lowes in each size to test them?

Firestone V Challenger, Firestone VI Challenger, Firestone Super Challenger
Gas 9/16"-18
Liquid 5/8" -18

Cornelius Spartan & Super Champion
Gas 19/32" - 18
Liquid 19/32" - 18

Cornelius R (pin lock)
Gas 19/32" - 18 (2-pin)
Liquid 19/32" - 18 (3-pin)

John Wood 85, Firestone Challenger
Gas 11/16" - 18
Liquid 3/4" - 18

Firestone A, Firestone R, John Wood RA, John Wood RC (pin lock)
Gas 9/16" - 18 (2-pin)
Liquid 9/16" - 18 (3-pin)

 

[Jayjay1976]

Problem is there are no corresponding markings on the keg. When I'm staring at a dissembled keg with two naked posts, it's not clear which should be the liquid side, and which is the gas side.

On some kegs (all kegs?) the dip tube will only fit into the liquid post not into the gas post. Just looking at them you should be able to tell the difference because the inside diameter is smaller on the gas side.

 

[passedpawn]

On some kegs (all kegs?) the dip tube will only fit into the liquid post not into the gas post. Just looking at them you should be able to tell the difference because the inside diameter is smaller on the gas side.

Not true at my house. I have (many times ) put the dip tube into the gas side. Usually I know when I attach gas and I hear the bubbling in there.

 

[Deadalus]

On some kegs (all kegs?) the dip tube will only fit into the liquid post not into the gas post. Just looking at them you should be able to tell the difference because the inside diameter is smaller on the gas side.

Oh it'll fit you just have to make it fit LOL. And then I learned the gas and liquid QD's are also different.

Sometimes there is a dimple in the bottom of the keg for the liquid side. Usually if the keg has a straight dip tube.

 

[passedpawn]

Oh it'll fit you just have to make it fit LOL. And then I learned the gas and liquid QD's are also different.

Sometimes there is a dimple in the bottom of the keg for the liquid side. Usually if the keg has a straight dip tube.

You can get those disconnects on the wrong posts, too. Apparently I have a wealth of experience in doing all the dumb things.

BTW, none of my Cornelius have dimples (dip tube has a bend that causes the end to sit at the bottom of the rounded tank).. I have a single Firestone that does have this dimple, and its dip tube is straight (dimple is not in center).

 

[Brettomomyces]

I used acrylic markers (these) to mark the OUT and IN on top of the rubber so it was obvious. These paint markers work great - those markings have been on the rubber for over a year, no sign of wear.

Also, use matching-color rubber o-rings

View attachment 680123

Great idea! I do the same thing with the o-rings but going to find a couple of those markers now. My method is to use painter's tape and I always put the label on my gas side

 

[Deadalus]

You can get those disconnects on the wrong posts, too. Apparently I have a wealth of experience in doing all the dumb things.

BTW, none of my Cornelius have dimples (dip tube has a bend that causes the end to sit at the bottom of the rounded tank).. I have a single Firestone that does have this dimple, and its dip tube is straight (dimple is not in center).

My kegs with the dimples are mainly five gallon Cornelius and Firestone pin locks. All converted to ball locks already. The pin locks all have the posts set at 10 and 2 o'clock looking down at the top. The outs all are at 10 o'clock but with the dimple it is clear where the dip tube goes. I also have a little ball lock 1.75 keg I forgot to mention it has a dimple. I think all my five gallon ball locks are marked and have bent tubes.

All my Challenger kegs use the larger post shown in your link above at the bottom under associated products. That's the 7/8" size wrench. Could be 6 or 12 point. The other size for ball locks is 11/16", the posts are small. When you see a "universal ball lock conversion post", it's usually this size. There is no "universal" post though as is evident in the thread sizes listed. That's a handy table BTW, I have another reference but that one is better laid out.

 

[passedpawn]

My kegs with the dimples are mainly five gallon Cornelius and Firestone pin locks. All converted to ball locks already. The pin locks all have the posts set at 10 and 2 o'clock looking down at the top. The outs all are at 10 o'clock but with the dimple it is clear where the dip tube goes. I also have a little ball lock 1.75 keg I forgot to mention it has a dimple. I think all my five gallon ball locks are marked and have bent tubes.

All my Challenger kegs use the larger post shown in your link above at the bottom under associated products. That's the 7/8" size wrench. Could be 6 or 12 point. The other size for ball locks is 11/16", the posts are small. When you see a "universal ball lock conversion post", it's usually this size. There is no "universal" post though as is evident in the thread sizes listed. That's a handy table BTW, I have another reference but that one is better laid out.

Regarding the different sizes, I find this tool is the best - handles all of them. One end is the smaller post, the other end fits the larger. I bought it at the late great Sears - maybe Ace Hardware carries now, or Lowes. Or Amazon.

Craftsman 11/16 x 7/8 in. Wrench, Ratcheting Box-End
Sears Item# 00942165000 | Model# 42165

Link to the item at store (I guess they still sell online?): Sears.com

 

[twd000]

here's another clue: only two of my eight posts are 12-points, the rest are 6-points or "universal ball lock conversion post" - does that give me a clue which keg the 12-point posts belong on?

 

[Yooper]

I have a couple of twelve points on corney kegs, for the gas. That might help, but might not.

 

[BrewerBrad82]

12 point posts are for Cornelius keg gas inputs. If you have any posts that have the 11/16" hex (the smaller size) those are also for Cornelius. Just be sure to pay attention to the notches in the hex flats as mentioned above. Hopefully this helps you narrow it down a bit more.

 

[Deadalus]

One of my three gallon Cornelius ball lock kegs does have the 12 points for the gas.

Let's note the possibility that the posts you own may have not have been original unless you know you bought the kegs new.

There are four kegs. The one that didn't fit was a Pepsi (ball lock). What are the other three in terms of ball lock or pin? Can you read the manufacturer writing on any of the kegs?

There are two 12 point gas posts which indicate that 2 are Cornelius kegs per BrewerBrad82. You pressurized two kegs and they are working fine. Those gas posts and liquid posts are working ok. If the gas posts on the working kegs are not Cornelius posts, then you are left with the two 12 point posts and that means the last two are Cornelius kegs. Suppose the 12 points would fit on the other kegs, then they are all Cornelius kegs. And when I say Cornelius that means the gas posts are 19/32"-18. Either way you know that's the thread size for the last two provided you weren't able to keep jamming on a wrong post in the past which I doubt.

Having two of the same though is the key. Pair a gas and liquid. Put it on a keg. If it works, switch out the gas and see if it works. If it still works switch out the liquid. If it still works, the keg has good threads and the posts all work. The other keg is broken, probably the threads.

If the the first pair doesn't work. Repeat the process. Switch the gas. If it works, the gas is bad on the first one. If it doesn't work, switch the liquid. If it works, the first liquid is bad. If it doesn't this keg is broken. Just put the posts on the other one keg and check it. This should work but I wonder if maybe you have original poppets mixed up or had recent thread damage.

Do you know if it was a particular post not working or a particular keg?

Last point, are you sure the poppets are all the way up in the posts? If they have those little legs, if they are not seated entirely up where they need to be you could get a leak. Sometimes there's like a rim the feet go on. If they are not on that properly, it looks like they are seated correctly but aren't. I've done this by just putting the poppet loosely on the keg or not pushed entirely into the post and thinking since I tightened the post, the poppet would seat correctly. I am going to say though that this particular poppet issue I think is for Challenger VI kegs. I have a set of Cornelius posts in a drawer, one is 12 points and they came together, and the poppets don't seat like I just said. You don't want to force them too much they break.

 

[Deadalus]

A little poppet information herehttps://www.kegoutlet.com/corny-keg-posts-poppets.html. Examples.

Cornelius poppets have a fat rubber seal. The other brands have skinnier seals but can be harder to tell apart. They have feet differences.

 

[passedpawn]

I did end up just buying a bunch of new posts (thanks @Bobby_M ). All my kegs are now identical Same posts, same poppets, silicone o-rings, color coordinated.

 

[Deadalus]

I did end up just buying a bunch of new posts (thanks @Bobby_M ). All my kegs are now identical Same posts, same poppets, silicone o-rings, color coordinated.

View attachment 681048

All your kegs already had the same thread size?

 

[passedpawn]

All your kegs already had the same thread size?

I have one Firestone keg. It has the odd threads (see link in post #3 above). The other 8 are the same. I'd love to get rid of that oddball keg some day.

I used to have 10 kegs, but one of them developed a hole in the bottom after I let straight bleach sit in there for a while. Don't do that.

 

[BrewerBrad82]

Don't do that.

Wrong thread

 

[Deadalus]

The Firestone Challenger VI posts are expensive replacements as are original style poppets. I bought a set of 4 of those like yours to convert pin locks over. They can be a bit cheaper, particularly straight from China. They have universal poppets too, which work fine in that post. I just took one out one of those poppets though from a Challenger keg, it was sticking up too much. I think someone mentioned you could cut a loop off or a little less off which I didn't try as I had an extra poppet.

 

[Yesfan]

Are the Firestones the only ones that are different? I have a few that have the smaller sized posts and others with the larger size.

I haven't looked to see which are what, but I would like to be able to have everything the same. It would also be nice to need just one wrench to assemble/disassemble for cleaning too.