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Magic Chef HMCF9W2 9CF 9.5" Collar Keezer

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Got this freezer, was surprised by the high temp alarm. Find the black+white wire going into the control board and power them independently, disconnect them from the compressor and use an extension cord to constant power. Use the factory power cord to your external thermostat, cut and cap off the red wire leaving the factory thermostat, jump the other end of the red wire (still connected to the compressor relay) to the black(hot) wire powered by the external thermostat. That way the external thermostat and the factory thermostat are separated. You'll only need to turn the alarm off if you have a power failure, and it's reversible, and you still have a light inside. Or you could stab the buzzer, I guess.
 
Had a chance to "86" the high temp piezo buzzer today. Not sure why i was nervous. Took all of 10 minutes total to unscrew panels, get to board and a gentle pop/twist on one side of the buzzer to snap one of the 2 connection points, and then put panels back on. High temp light still goes on, but no more noise. Works great now with my Inkbird.

thanks to those above for the info.
 
Had a chance to "86" the high temp piezo buzzer today. Not sure why i was nervous. Took all of 10 minutes total to unscrew panels, get to board and a gentle pop/twist on one side of the buzzer to snap one of the 2 connection points, and then put panels back on. High temp light still goes on, but no more noise. Works great now with my Inkbird.

thanks to those above for the info.

May be the safest(best) method yet, to disable the alarm.

Converting for keezer or ferm chamber?
 
Keezer. Was just about to pull the trigger on a 7 cu ft. when this thread popped up and the home Depot deal came along. So cool to now have the extra room in this, and happy to get to go buy more kegs too. [emoji16]. Now I'm planning to build the collar and doing a "thru wall" tap setup. 4 lines in the brewery (laundry room) and now can get 2 more on the collar. With room for a 7th keg to be conditioning. I feel like christmas came early!!
 
@pbrennan10 - Has the temp continued to swing so dramatically with kegs installed?

@stat - Can you explain how you have your controller wired in a little bit further. I understand wiring the controller in via existing freezer power cable, like this. But I'm missing what you're doing with the black/white/red connections going between the control panel and the compressor. Are you saying that once cut, the black and white wires going towards the panel get constant power and the red gets capped? And then going towards the compressor the black and white get capped, and the red gets joined with the black from the freezer power cable?

Not sure yet if I'm going to go the same direction pbrennan10 did and use the original electronics for the fridge or use an external controller.
 
I have 15 gallons in there now i'll clear my thermometer and let it run for and report back. Using my infrared thermometer and shooting it around the inside that the temperature varies about 12 degrees in various places. I'm not sure what a typical result would be but that seems very high to me and I have a fan that runs 2 minutes every 15 minutes.

I made the mistake of clicking over to the 3rd "cool" setting on the thermostat and froze a keg, i forgot to check temp but I think it was a serious jump from 2 to 3 "dots". If stats hasn't had any problems, you are not strapped for cash, and do not have a problem hiding the extra controller i'd say that's the safe bet (not speaking to compressor life)

In other news

I set up a block and tackle using a rig off amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006P39M8C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) and unistrut etc from lowes. probably not applicable to most but a pretty nice way to pull or set kegs/co2.

I set up a little pad to lift the co2 tank above the kegs which makes everything a little more manageable

and I also completed my first beer, which tastes a little weird but better than I expected.
 

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@pbrennan10 - Has the temp continued to swing so dramatically with kegs installed?

@stat - Can you explain how you have your controller wired in a little bit further. I understand wiring the controller in via existing freezer power cable, like this. But I'm missing what you're doing with the black/white/red connections going between the control panel and the compressor. Are you saying that once cut, the black and white wires going towards the panel get constant power and the red gets capped? And then going towards the compressor the black and white get capped, and the red gets joined with the black from the freezer power cable?

Not sure yet if I'm going to go the same direction pbrennan10 did and use the original electronics for the fridge or use an external controller.

with approx 15 gallons in the swing was 37-44.
 
Just two taps didn't last long. Added a tap and a manifold. Wishing i had done 3" (2 are 4") shanks from the start. The 90 degree John guest fittings are nice too.
 

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Got the Magic Chef 9 cf $117 on clearance at Home Depot. Real good deal. I also have a MC 5.2 cf keezer. Works fine. Here's my build. I used pliers to take buzzer completely off, just go gentle. Got seven taps, used some from my side by side fridge that was using to much electricity and icing up badly on freezer side. Have to get some more kegs in there for sure.
 

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Looks good, i have sudden feelings of inadequacy with 3 taps. Thinking about moving my fan to the exact same spot. Id like to figure out a way to hang it from the lid so it pulls out of the way when it opens.

Cold crashing 30L speidel on the shelf works with 4 kegs in, 1 can be pin lock for sure maybe 2 but it's tight.
 

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I think it circulates better in the deeper section. Just get some brackets at the Depot with some bolts, pretty easy. I haven't tried drilling into the inner lid so can't comment on how a screw would hold into the plastic.
 
Welp, in an effort to get it a little cleaner i'm going to rig this up to go through immediately through a wall to above a bar area in the basement. I started on the box tonight, still need to work on cover and junction w/ keezer. There will be a fan on the lower right that will hopefully pull enough air through to keep the lines and shanks cool. Keezer will mash up against the box w/ weatherstripping. May beef that connection up, but we'll see if easy works first.
 

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Finished it up and waiting on everything to cool down.
 

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Finally figured out how to fit in a chalkboard reasonably.
 

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