I made my first batch yesterday ~27 hours ago. I used a true brew Red Ale kit. I checked today and I do not see any "bubbles" like the directions stated. I put the yeast in when the batch hit 90 degrees like the kit instructed. Could the kit have had bad yeast? How can I tell if it will still work and be ok? Thanks everyone.
Made first batch, yeast problem????
- Thread starter littlebu
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Was dry yeast? If so, it should have started by now. If it's liquid, it could be dead if it wasn't kept refrigerated. Also, 90 degrees is a little warm, IMO. I usually pitch at around 70º. Either way, I'd head to my LHBS to pick up some more. Go with dry, I've had better luck with that.
Actually your instructions are FOS.....bubbles or lack of mean nothing...first off fermentation can take up to 72 hours for the yeasties to start, it's called lag time, and it's perfectly normal. Read this https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/fermentation-can-take-24-72-hrs-show-visible-signs-43635/
Despite what your instructions may say airlock activity is not an accurate indication of fermentation...an airlock is a vent for excess co2, nothing more...
There's a good explanation of why here..https://www.homebrewtalk.com/1217925-post3.html
Generally speaking kit manufacturers, especially kit an kilo manufacturers, are concerned with selling more and more kits NOT with the brewer making the best beer possible. They know that if they say in the instructions to wait, they may loose some people to hobbies that have more instant gratification...so they may bot give you the best info.
They also know that the time that a homebrewer will remain buying kits is relatively short...they know that after a few kits, the brewer will either give up, start brewing extract batches from recipes in books and places like this, formulate their own recipes, or go all grain...so they want to sell as many kits as possible to the new brewer before he moves on to bigger and better things.
So really, read the links I gave you and relax.
Your beer is fine.
Despite what your instructions may say airlock activity is not an accurate indication of fermentation...an airlock is a vent for excess co2, nothing more...
There's a good explanation of why here..https://www.homebrewtalk.com/1217925-post3.html
Generally speaking kit manufacturers, especially kit an kilo manufacturers, are concerned with selling more and more kits NOT with the brewer making the best beer possible. They know that if they say in the instructions to wait, they may loose some people to hobbies that have more instant gratification...so they may bot give you the best info.
They also know that the time that a homebrewer will remain buying kits is relatively short...they know that after a few kits, the brewer will either give up, start brewing extract batches from recipes in books and places like this, formulate their own recipes, or go all grain...so they want to sell as many kits as possible to the new brewer before he moves on to bigger and better things.
So really, read the links I gave you and relax.
Your beer is fine.
Thanks. I think part of the problem was that I had my fermentor in the basement where it's a little cool. I moved to a warmer area. Still no bubbles but, I pushed down on the center of the lid, and I got air out of the seal for the air lock, so maybe the c02 is escaping there, hence no bubbles? I will wait a few more days and open it up and see how things look, and repitch if necessary. I used dry yeast fwiw.
SteveM
Well-Known Member
Don't re-open. I've been fooled into thinking my yeast wasn't working because I had not put enough liquid into the air lock (normally cheap vodka) so there were no bubbles. This sounds like you may have done the same. Add a few CCs of liquid to the air lock.
Also, 90F is a bit warm for pitching. I usually like to get my wort to about 80.
air lock is about half full. Why can't you re-open? Does this add to a chance of infection?
excellent thanks. Will take a reading after a couple of days and see how things turn out.
SteveM
Well-Known Member
Yup. Chances are, your most active stage came and went while you were sleeping (it happens). However, if you can't help yourself, pry it open and peek in. If you see kruesen (sp) on the sides, close it up, wait a few weeks and bottle it up.
ChshreCat
Well-Known Member
When I absolutely can't resist peeking into the pail to see how it's doing, I just pull the airlock out and peek through the hole. Less exposure, but I can see if there's anything happening.
Defenserate's got a great thread, with video on this very thing...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/exactly-why-not-always-trust-your-airlocks-119784/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/exactly-why-not-always-trust-your-airlocks-119784/
come on revvy, you couldnt even spell my name right? thats like getting your name pronounced wrong in front of a crowd 
remember that fermentation runs usually 3-4 degrees warmer than the ambient temperature. so if your basement is 64 the beer/wort is more like 67-68. i ferment in my basement, too ( 59-61 degrees now) and have good results. i prefer to ferment on the lowside of ale temps, trying to avoid off flavors.
next time around you might want to try the first 5-7 days in the basement(or until the beer temps drop) then move up to a warmer room to make sure that fermentation completes fully. just my .02 cents-i'm too lazy to move it around all the time so i just leave it in the basement.
Just an update. After 96 hours it's doing it's thing. So another question now. When do I move to the secondary? My directions said 7 days, but since fermentation was delayed do I wait 7 days from today? Thanks everyone.
Many of us leave our beers in primary for 3-4 weeks, skip secondary and bottle. Just search for the 10,000 threads under "long Primary" or "no secondary" and you will see all the resaons why we do it, and the explanations behind...There's at least one thread a day on the topic, so it's really not hard to find the discussion pretty much hashed to death.
but if you choose to secondary you should wait til your Hydrometer tells you fermentation is complete.
If I do secondary (which is only when I am adding fruit or oak) I wait 14 days then rack for another 2 weeks...then I bottle.
But that's only if I am dry hopping or adding oak or fruit, which I rarely do, so for me it's a month than bottle,
Honestly you will find your beer will be the best if you ignore the kit instructions, and don't rush it.
But Even Palmer says you should wait with kits...
Your beer will thank you for waiting....
but if you choose to secondary you should wait til your Hydrometer tells you fermentation is complete.
If I do secondary (which is only when I am adding fruit or oak) I wait 14 days then rack for another 2 weeks...then I bottle.
But that's only if I am dry hopping or adding oak or fruit, which I rarely do, so for me it's a month than bottle,
Honestly you will find your beer will be the best if you ignore the kit instructions, and don't rush it.
But Even Palmer says you should wait with kits...
How To Brew said:
Your beer will thank you for waiting....
android
Well-Known Member
a few CCs? are we in the OR or something??
sorry, i couldn't resist...
sounds like the beer will be fine, just let it do it's thing.
So no need to move to the secondary. Got it. So 3-4 weeks in the primary, then 2 weeks after I bottle correct? Thanks for all the help. I guess if I'm not going to use the secondary I can start another batch now w00t.
Many of us leave our beers in primary for 3-4 weeks, skip secondary and bottle. Just search for the 10,000 threads under "long Primary" or "no secondary" and you will see all the resaons why we do it, and the explanations behind...There's at least one thread a day on the topic, so it's really not hard to find the discussion pretty much hashed to death.
but if you choose to secondary you should wait til your Hydrometer tells you fermentation is complete.
If I do secondary (which is only when I am adding fruit or oak) I wait 14 days then rack for another 2 weeks...then I bottle.
But that's only if I am dry hopping or adding oak or fruit, which I rarely do, so for me it's a month than bottle,
Honestly you will find your beer will be the best if you ignore the kit instructions, and don't rush it.
But Even Palmer says you should wait with kits...
Your beer will thank you for waiting....
Corkster
Well-Known Member
That's my main reason for not using a secondary!!
I hear a minimum of 3 weeks in the bottle at 70 degrees and then 48 hours in the fridge before drinking is highly recommended.
ChshreCat
Well-Known Member
a few CCs? are we in the OR or something??
sorry, i couldn't resist...
I need 10ccs of cheap vodka, STAT!
I need 10ccs of cheap vodka, STAT!
Only 10?? Wuss. I can easily handle 12ccs of Popov.
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