Looking to purchase a brewing kettle...suggestions?

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MattKerwin

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Hey guys...

I typically brew 5 gallon batches, and have been using just a standard cooking pot when brewing. I want to upgrade and buy a kettle to use solely for brewing, but had some questions as far as which size would be best for my average batch size...as well as best bang for my buck / features, should I go with a false bottom, etc. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated!

Happy New Year...and Happy Brewing!!!
Matt
 
I'd suggest a converted keg or a kettle that is 15+ gallons. Even if you're only doing 5 gallon batches, there are those days you want to do a yeast comparison experiment and need to brew 10 gallons.
 
If you are planning to do full boils then go with at least a 10 gallon pot. Your pre boil volumes will be more than 7 gallons and you'll appreciate the extra headspace. A false bottom isn't necessary nor is a ball valve, thermometer, or sight glass but they are nice to have. I would rank the ball valve & thermometer over a false bottom & sight glass.

As for material, stainless is preferable and look for handles that are riveted on instead of welded. 7+ gallons of wort is heavy.
 
I should probably clarify too...I'm brewing 5 gallon batches which means my wort is 2 gallons...hope that helps.
 
I should probably clarify too...I'm brewing 5 gallon batches which means my wort is 2 gallons...hope that helps.

I would still go with a big pot 10+ gallons. You never know if your going to swich to bigger batches or AG brewing. If you get a big pot now you'll save in the long run.
 
I should probably clarify too...I'm brewing 5 gallon batches which means my wort is 2 gallons...hope that helps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JXYUA/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details

Check out this entire line of pots and just choose whichever size is good for you. IMO you don't need a valve for full boils up to 6 gallons post boil. The 44 quart is 11 gallons, the 36 is 9, I use the 36 quart for AG 6 gallon batches, no problems. Will also work for your extract 5 gallon batches.
 
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If you plan on sticking with small boils a cheap 5 gallon pot can be bought for about 40 bucks.
If you think you ever want to do full boils I would buy a 15 gallon minimum, 10 gallon works but then your limited to 5 gallon batches.
 
I'm very happy with my 42 quart polarware with temp gauge and spigot. A little more expensive than some but the quality is there.
 
I have an 8-gallon pot. I wish I had a 10-gallon pot as some of the brews I boil longer and require almost 8 gallons. I have to add additional water after it has been boiling a while.

Get at least a 10-gallon pot.
 
Building the keggle was one of my favorite brewery additions. If you have the tools (drill and angle grinder), do this.

You can go with a cheap 5 gallon pot if you want to keep doing 2 gallon boils, but you'll get much better hop utilization if you move to full boils, and you'll want a ~9+ gallon pot for that. Go bigger than you think you'll need.
 
Academy sports has a large selection of various sized aluminum pots that are inexpensive. I bought a 9gal on for $40.
 
Ten gallons is a good size when we're talking 5 gallon batches. It gives more leeway and flexibility. OTOH, I've gotten along since I started brewing with a cheap SS Proctor-Silex 30 qt. (7.5 gal) pot, which started me off in extract batches, and still serves me now that I do AG. And, yes, I do full 6.5 gal. boils. I get away with that because I use Fermcap-S. Six drops, no boilovers. Ever.
But if something ever happened to this pot, I would definitely go ≥10 Gal. If I had to do it today, it would almost certainly be a Penrose kettle from Brewhemoth.
 
lseabo00 said:
Academy sports has a large selection of various sized aluminum pots that are inexpensive. I bought a 9gal on for $40.

Warning!!!! Do not use aluminum pots as they are reactive!!!!
 
MattKerwin said:
I should probably clarify too...I'm brewing 5 gallon batches which means my wort is 2 gallons...hope that helps.

You should seek the advantages of a full boil when buying a new pot. Otherwise don't bother.
 
genes said:
Warning!!!! Do not use aluminum pots as they are reactive!!!!

I read through the aluminum pot FAQ thread in the Equipment/Sanitation forum and it basically says that there is no off flavors associate with using aluminum if properly seasoned. So, I have 3 pots that I use for BIAB and have not had any issues from the aluminum.
 
I got a 9 gallon bayou classic for $60 added a ball valve for $25. Now have a $15 bk and the bc is my hlt. Didnt anticipate going ag and i did. Go big
 
I read through the aluminum pot FAQ thread in the Equipment/Sanitation forum and it basically says that there is no off flavors associate with using aluminum if properly seasoned. So, I have 3 pots that I use for BIAB and have not had any issues from the aluminum.

Correct, aluminum isn't a problem as long as you follow all of the guidelines to keep from ruining a batch, or the kettle. Breaking in the pot is the most important initial step, and using the proper cleaners on it.

Personal opinion, though, stainless steel (SS) is better. Don't need to worry as much about breaking it in, for cleaners, chlorine is the only common thing you absolutely have to avoid. As far as doing 5 gallon batches and only boiling 2 or 3 gallons for wort, I'd highly recommend beginning full volume boils, which requires an initial volume of 6.5 to 7 gallons. I'd go with the recommendation of many pointing you to amazon for a 10 gallon SS pot. If you still want to do 2 or 3 gallon boils, it's still somewhat possible in a 10 gallon pot, but you'll likely start to see the benefits of full volume boils.

Of course, along with that, you'll need to upgrade some other equipment as well. You'll need a wort chiller and outdoor burner as a minimum. I will say, if you're seriously getting into brewing, you will most likely make those upgrades anyway at some point, so why not now?
 
I would start doing full boils, not the 2 gallon and top up water. I would go with a 15 gallon pot. You may think your only going to do 5 gallon brews, but that will change at some point. I do 5 gallon batches in my 15 gallon pot, I love have all the extra room, no reall chance of a boilover. If you stick with the 2 gallon boils then a 15 gallon is way over kill.
 
I'm in the same boat, am looking to upgrade so I can do 5 gal BIAB. Academy Sports (if there's one near you) does have some great deals. $50 for a 10.5 gal aluminum pot. The poster who said that aluminum is reactive has not researched this matter (talking out their backside).
 
HopKeller said:
I'm in the same boat, am looking to upgrade so I can do 5 gal BIAB. Academy Sports (if there's one near you) does have some great deals. $50 for a 10.5 gal aluminum pot. The poster who said that aluminum is reactive has not researched this matter (talking out their backside).

Maybe the good folks at Wisconsin can help you better understand that aluminum is reactive.

http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/chemweek/aluminum/aluminum.html
 
Maybe the good folks at Wisconsin can help you better understand that aluminum is reactive.

http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/chemweek/aluminum/aluminum.html

Okay, I skimmed it, but couldn't extract information pertaining explicitly to the topic at hand (granted, I'm no scientist). Help us out. Everything I've ever read, on this forum and elsewhere has indicated that aluminum is perfectly safe once it's oxidized via boiling. A lot of us use aluminum, so if you know something the rest of us don't, and that may ultimately reduce our exposure to harmful chemicals, please share!
 
Pasted from This vs. That thread:

Brew Pots: Stainless Steel Vs. Aluminum Vs Enamel
(Note: Much of the Aluminum/SS information is taken straight from FlyGuy's post here. He did it first, and it was a very well written post. This information is transcribed here only for the sake of having one central database for as much Pro Vs. Con information as possible.)

Enamel:
Pros:
Many kitchens already have an enamel stock pot of sufficient size to do partial boil extract batches
If you have access to a second-hand store, enamel pots are generally the least expensive on this list
Clean in place (CIP) type cleaners, such as PBW, Oxiclean, and One-Step can be used
Poor heat distribution, meaning that once you get your steeping water to the appropriate temperature, it's easy to keep it there

Cons:
Eventually, even with proper care, the enamel coating will chip, rendering them unusable for brewing
Fairly heavy, making shipping more expensive
Generally not available in sizes larger than ~3 gallons, making full boils impossible for a standard 5 gallon batch
Poor heat distribution, making for slow heating and cooling
Cannot be drilled for ball valve installation. This isn't a huge deal since you wouldn't be using a small enamel stock pot for an all grain batch, unless you're making smaller ~2.5 gallon batches

Aluminum:
Pros:
Generally the cheapest kettle available in 5+ gallon size
Very light weight, making for cheap shipping, and easier transportation and pouring
Excellent heat distribution, resulting in rapid heating and cooling
Easily drilled for installation of a ball valve. This can come in handy when/if you decide to move to All Grain brewing
A new aluminum kettle will last for the length of your brewing lifetime with proper care

Cons:
Passive oxide layer must be created and maintained. This is done easily enough by filling the kettle with water and boiling for ~30 minutes. You'll know it's there when the inside of your kettle has a brown discoloration
Although an aluminum pot will likely last for as long as you need to use it, it probably won't last forever. If you inherited your great-grandparents aluminum pot, leave that for spaghetti
CIP cleaners cannot be used without damaging your pot. With aluminum, you'll need to use old fashioned manual labor

Stainless Steel
Pros:
Shiny! Who doesn't like the gleam of stainless steal equipment?
With proper care, you'll be able to pass on your SS brew pot on to your great great grandchildren. They just plain last forever
Can be cleaned with CIP cleaners
Passive oxide layer is much easier to maintain than with aluminum
Easily drilled for installation of a ball valve. This can come in handy when/if you decide to move to All Grain brewing
Better heat distribution than enamel

Cons:
The most expensive kettle on this list by far
Much heavier than aluminum. More expensive to ship, and more difficult to transport and pour
Much less heat distribution than aluminum. Slower boils, and harder to chill quickly
 
Maybe the good folks at Wisconsin can help you better understand that aluminum is reactive.

http://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/chemweek/aluminum/aluminum.html

Dude. You should take the time to read your own article.

Based on its chemical reactivity, aluminum should not be very useful at all. Its standard reduction potential is –1.66 volts, indicating that it is a very good reducing agent. It is far more active than iron, which has a reduction potential of –0.44 volt. Aluminum weathers far better than iron, however, because the product of its corrosion, Al2O3, adheres strongly to the metal's surface, protecting it from further reaction.

I use Al pots and even clean them with a Scotch Brite pad (the horror!) and have never once had a metallic off-flavor. The fact of the matter is that the oxide layer takes milliseconds to form. While it can be thickened by boiling in water, the only research I've encountered on Al in cooking materials was targeted on strongly acidic foods (like tomato sauce at a pH of 2-3) and showed only minor pitting in the (un-augmented) oxide layer and minimal leaching of Al. I've yet to see anything that supports the notion that a wort with a pH of roughly 5 will do anything to the oxide layer.
 
Please read the post immediately above; this subject has been "settled" in many threads.

Or, just carry on regardless......{fixes some popcorn}.
 
Get 15 gallons, they are a pain to lug around and clean, but I make 5 gallon batches and I love the extra head room as it allows me to not tend the boil and hang out with kids.
 
+1 for getting a 15 gallon pot. I used to do partial boils too, once I got my keggle I never went back to that even though I thought I would occasionally.

Also, never thought I would use the extra space and thought I would always stick with 5 gal batches. Now I brew ten gallon batches fairly often. If I have a friend brew with me I'll brew 10 gal and split the batch after. Works out pretty good.

If u buy the bigger pot, one day you'll use it.
 
You can go with a cheap 5 gallon pot if you want to keep doing 2 gallon boils, but you'll get much better hop utilization if you move to full boils, and you'll want a ~9+ gallon pot for that. Go bigger than you think you'll need.

+1 for going with full boils. I'm relatively new to brewing. My first batch was an IPA using a partial boil like you reference. Before the second batch I bought a 10G SS kettle and decided to brew the same recipe again to see what difference there might be. It was a much improved beer with better bitterness due to the hop utilization Mongrel mentions. On size I'd also recommend going with a 15 gallon. After just 10 batches I'm already feeling the need to upsize...fortunate to have an understanding wife...
 
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