LODO HLT

[JDXX1971]

Hello all,

I am in need of up sizing my HLT, I also am interested in LODO methods. Currently I have a 10 gallon cooler I use as a HLT and to catch my cooling water for reuse. I recently added a 20 gallon kettle so I can do 10 gallon batches so the cooler is too small now anyway. So considering that I need to upgrade the HLT and want to add LODO practices I have rethought my whole system. My plan was to create a BIAB repeater system with the ability to do overlapping batches (one boiling as another mashes) I have two burners just for this purpose. By adapting my system to LODO brewing I will lose the ability to do overlapping batches but will still be able to do consecutive batches. So I am currently trying to decide if LODO will be worth the sacrifice to my plans.

Anyway enough of that.

My thoughts for designing my LODO HLT are to be able to boil and cool the strike water quickly and accurately. So how does one accurately cool the water after boiling? I have not gotten to far into researching this yet, how do you all accomplish this? I am thinking of using a SS immersion chiller or maybe a HERMS coil mounted in the HLT. How does one go about controlling the cooling? Could I use my current HLT PID controller for the cooling somehow too? Just kinda thinking as I type now but maybe the alarm function could be used on a electronic ball valve controlling water flow to the cooling coil?

I would sure be interested in hearing how those of you currently utilizing LODO techniques approach the strike water treatment.

 

[bitteritdown]

A stainless immersion chiller and a thermapen works well. Same as chilling wort, swirl the chiller in the water and take the water temp until @ strike temperature. Takes a little practice especially with cold well water as the temp plummets rather quickly. Stop 10 degrees before desired and watch if the temp doesn't keep decreasing a tad as the swirling water mixes.

Ideally a PID regulated kettle with heating element and a stainless counterflow chiller with a pump, perhaps under vacuum or purged with C02 or nitrogen in both the HLT and the Mash Tun/BK.

 

[TexasWine]

My thoughts for designing my LODO HLT are to be able to boil and cool the strike water quickly and accurately. So how does one accurately cool the water after boiling? I have not gotten to far into researching this yet, how do you all accomplish this? I am thinking of using a SS immersion chiller or maybe a HERMS coil mounted in the HLT. How does one go about controlling the cooling? Could I use my current HLT PID controller for the cooling somehow too? Just kinda thinking as I type now but maybe the alarm function could be used on a electronic ball valve controlling water flow to the cooling coil?

I would sure be interested in hearing how those of you currently utilizing LODO techniques approach the strike water treatment.

The big question is, do you have a pump and a way to ramp/maintain temps? It sounds like you do.

When pre-boiling I pump through my heat exchanger. To chill I just turn on the cold water from the hose and watch the temp in the HLT until the temp is a few degrees under my first rest temp. When I transfer to the MT I just ramp back up to first rest temp and the timer starts.

Easy peasy.

 

[TexasWine]

So I am currently trying to decide if LODO will be worth the sacrifice to my plans.

Once you make the change, you'll see no other way to brew.

 

[JDXX1971]

Getting closer! I have my HLT, 30 gallon Spike kettle with 2 couplings. I am also going to use this to catch the chiller water for reuse among other uses around our place (farm?).

A stainless immersion chiller and a thermapen works well. Same as chilling wort, swirl the chiller in the water and take the water temp until @ strike temperature.

For chilling I have ordered a 50 ft 14 inch diameter stainless IC. We do have cold well water so I am hoping it will do the job but I am also considering adding a stainless CFC for hot wort if need be. Would recirculating the water in the HLT be ok instead of swirling the chiller? I was thinking I could put my inline thermometer and a three way valve to divert the strike water to the BIAB kettle once it reaches temp.

As far as purging, could I just pump some of the strike water out of the lines before hooking to the mash tun? Not like I wouldn't have the extra capacity with the 30 gallon HLT.

Once you make the change, you'll see no other way to brew.

I am not dedicating myself to LODO just yet, my system design just so happens to support it. I already pre heated and underletted my strike water. I planned to use a mash cap anyway with 5 gallon batches in a 20 gallon kettle. My biggest LODO reservation is using any chemicals which we have so far avoided in our brewing and cider making.

 

[TexasWine]

which we have so far avoided in our brewing and cider making.

Awesome update!

So you don't use any sorbate or NaMB/KMB in cider? I've found that most do.

 

[JDXX1971]

No we have not, my wife has not had any interest in using any chemicals. That said we have not been satisfied with most of the ciders we have made.

We keep trying though and have 15 gallons going right now with 10 more ready to go. We were talking just today about sorbate etc after sampling our latest.

Maybe I will order some, I have an order ready anyway. Really I just need to do more research on the matter. We just want as natural of products as we can make and I don't know much about these things( yet).

 

[Big Monk]

No we have not, my wife has not had any interest in using any chemicals. That said we have not been satisfied with most of the ciders we have made.

We keep trying though and have 15 gallons going right now with 10 more ready to go. We were talking just today about sorbate etc after sampling our latest.

Maybe I will order some, I have an order ready anyway. Really I just need to do more research on the matter. We just want as natural of products as we can make and I don't know much about these things( yet).

I understand what you are getting at, and as a father of 2 young children, I am very conscious of what stuff we put in our bodies, but you have to understand that there are naturally occurring substances in malt, minerals and other substances in your source water, etc.

At the dosages we recommend, you are adding nothing harmful to your beer. I sympathize with your sentiments about chemicals but in this case the fears and reservations are unfounded.

Making beer is all about consuming and working with substances otherwise foreign to your body. Some extra SO4, K, or Na isn’t going to break the bank.

The acids you use in brewing are more harmful to you then brewing salts.

 

[JDXX1971]

@RPIScotty

I am hearing you man. Basically we are making poison anyway, so it isn't going to make much difference I am sure.

We would like to keep the additions to a minimum. I have done no water additions at all yet. Don't have ph meter or know my water make up. Its all in the works but is not high on my priority list. Right now I am trying to get my cold side set up to be as oxygen free as possible. But that's for another thread.

I guess I am a little stuck on the absolutness of it. I will eventually try full hot side LODO procedures. The way my system is going to be set up it shouldn't be too difficult to implement.

I want to make the best beer that I can. I am looking at it just like I am my water chemistry and ph, if adjusting those things or brewing LODO makes my beer better, so be it.

Being a newer brewer I think it is easy for me to just look at it as just one more thing I need to learn about, like those other things and so many more things.

Well if you read this far I have your attention, what do you think about whirlpooling the boiled strike water around an immersion chiller in the HLT? And what about purging the lines with a portion of that water?

 

[JDXX1971]

Tasty poison I might add.