LME in bottom of cardboy

[songe]

Well.. i started a batch of belgian wit beer yesterday. My malts wherent mixed out enoguh. But after shaking it for a long time i got an OG reading of 1062, and i thought it was ok. So i pitched in my yeast. But looking at i now. i can se a layer of LME in the bottom of my carboy.

So. Im wodering if this will be a problem? or will the yeast eat it up as time pass?

 

[el_horno]

Can you post a picture? How do you know its LME and not yeast and/or other grains settling out?

 

[Revvy]

Are you sure it's just not trub forming on the bottom of the fermenter? Did you not boil your extract in water? If you did, then it mixed with that water, and won't "seperate." And even if there is stryations for some odd reason, the yeast will still eat it and pee alcohol. They're good at figuring that stuff out.

 

[Kate00]

It's probably just trub. Youll be fine. Even if it is a little extract, the yeast will still chow down on it.

 

[cheezydemon3]

lol STOP LOOKING AT THE FERMENTING BEER!!!!!!!

I sympathise. I used to obsess, but the best thing I ever did brewing wise was to start fermenting in buckets and kegs and stop looking.

Fermenting beer ALWAYS looks freakish.

 

[Revvy]

lol STOP LOOKING AT THE FERMENTING BEER!!!!!!!

I sympathise. I used to obsess, but the best thing I ever did brewing wise was to start fermenting in buckets and kegs and stop looking.

Fermenting beer ALWAYS looks freakish.

Ayup!

 

[el_horno]

I enjoy looking through the glass, reminds me of what Jupiter looks like from space. I guess its because I am still green!

 

[songe]

Ok i know its LME i have one of theese http://www.google.no/imgres?um=1&hl...w=101&start=0&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0,i:84 jjust mine is in dark brown glass yeasties are white P so yes its not that id i know its LME coz when i took my Og reading it was 1020 and my beer kit is suppose to be 4.7 P and i added 250g of DME weat and 1.8kg of LME weat After shaking it as hell without my yeastiestarter in it it went up to OG 1062 I can t put a big spoon thingy to mix it inn it coz it wont fitt in the opening I normally don t look in the fermenter but i F up by not heating my extract long enough And the layer is approx 2 cm or so But im guessing the yeast will eat it up then Cant takev a pic Havent got my cam here and my phone is craps so

 

[songe]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/86886523@N08/7950180636/in/photostream

 

[cheezydemon3]

I enjoy looking through the glass, reminds me of what Jupiter looks like from space. I guess its because I am still green!

Leave yourself in the bottle for a few more weeks then you'll be OK!

 

[el_horno]

Leave yourself in the bottle for a few more weeks then you'll be OK!

Sort of like the movie Innerspace ? that would be AWESOME!

 

[songe]

Just wondering, my wit is probably gonna tunr out at 8-9% alc.. Is this kinda overkill for a wit beer?

 

[cheezydemon3]

Just wondering, my wit is probably gonna tunr out at 8-9% alc.. ?

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!

Sorry!

My Wit is like 96% of what I say, so I'd say you are just a bit low.

sounds like an Imperial wit in all seriousness.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

Just wondering, my wit is probably gonna tunr out at 8-9% alc.. Is this kinda overkill for a wit beer?

With an OG of 1.062, I highly doubt your abv will be anywhere near "8-9%". I'd guess ~6.5% at best.

RDW and HAHB, my brother!

 

[songe]

so the WLP400 yeast wont drop down to108 ish? and + the remaning LME in by carboy is probably another 1006 in OG...

 

[naiek]

Having a hard time understanding your posts, did you add DME and LME to the carboy after the boil?

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

so the WLP400 yeast wont drop down to108 ish? and + the remaning LME in by carboy is probably another 1006 in OG...

Even if it did, you'd be looking at a ~7% brew, but with extract, you're hard pressed to hit .008. Not sure what you mean there by LME being another 1.006....... and I'm pretty sure that's not LME in the carboy, but trub from fermentation. However, if it is LME, as Revvy said, the yeast will figure it out and ferment it.... it'll all be mixed in by the time the beer's finished fermenting.

 

[songe]

That's what i was wondering, if the yeast would be able to do that.. so nevermind that... its only been fermenting for 10h so..

 

[Revvy]

Sorry, English is my third language.. There is no boil involved in brewing kit beers... you just add the malt,hops etc extract and add water to it etc... i wanted to make it stronger than 4.7%. so i added 1.8kg LME and DME, (tho DME is dosolved so that's not the problem...) if you look at my picture you can see a layer of LME at the bottom

Yes there is boil involved in MOSt kit beers. The no boil kits don't have loose hops to add. You need a boil for hop utilization. If it had hops more than likely it was boil kit.

And even no boil kits, still involve boiling water, just not boiling the wort.

No-boil beer kits are an easy-to-make beer. They are great for homebrewers that want their first brewing session to be simple so they can build their confidence before attempting more complicated brewing methods. They are also great for those that want a simple approach that allows them to make their beers fast and easily without any fuss.

No-boil kits come in many styles, from light American to Irish stouts. Most no-boil kits require additional malt in order to make the batch of beer, but some such as the John Bull Master Class kits have all the malt that you need. The product details will let you know if additional malt is required. Yeast is included in with the no-boil kits.

To brew a no-boil kit, you will need a pot that can hold 3 gallons of water. Follow the basic steps below to make a great tasting beer! Click here to view a visual guide to brewing your first no-boil kit.

Sanitize your fermenting bucket, lid & airlock.
Heat 2-3 gallons of water to a boil and turn off the heat.
Stir in the malt from the no-boil kit and the additional malt if required.
Stir till the malt has dissolved and let sit for 15 minutes to ensure that all unwanted micro-organisms are killed.
Cool the wort (wort is what we call unfermented beer) as quickly as possible. Placing the brewpot is a sink full of ice water is very effective. Once the wort is cooled to at least 90° (80° is better) pour it into the sanitized fermenting bucket. Add cold water to bring to the desired volume. Most no-boil kits make 6 gallons of beer (58-60 12oz bottles). Be sure to let the wort splash as you pour to help oxygenate the wort.
Open the yeast and sprinkle on the top of the wort. There is no need to rehydrate the yeast or to stir. The yeast will rehydrate as it sinks into wort.
Place the lid on the fermenting bucket and fill the airlock halfway with water and insert it into the grommet on the lid. You should start seeing activity in you airlock with 12 to 48 hours. This lets you know that your beer has started fermenting. Be sure to ferment at room temperature, between 65° and 75°.

Methinks you mis-read your instruction.....The purpose of the heat is to steralize the extract and help integrate it into the water better. Sounds like you probably do have extract in the bottom of your fermenter after all.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

That's what i was wondering, if the yeast would be able to do that.. so nevermind that... its only been fermenting for 10h so..

Don't worry about the language barrier, some people have a harder time with it than others. I don't think your pic posted, can you repost it?
And are we talking a Cooper's or Munton's type "kit and kilo" kit? Adding pre hopped LME to boiled water, maybe a booster of DME or DME/sugar? I can see how the LME may not have been dissolved in one of those, but as was stated, it should all work itself out in the fermenter.

Edit: Revvy made a good point by the bolded part of his last post. If you didn't stir well, and/or didn't let it sit for awhile to ensure it was mixed, some of the LME could've very well settled out. I did that with a boil kit the first time I did a extract addition after flameout on the boil. I caught it before pitching, shook the hell out of the fermenter and got it mixed in. I'm guessing the fermentation activity will do the same in your beer.

 

[songe]

http://www.bryggselv.no/products/bryggselv-belgisk-wit-3kg Its in norwegian, But nevermind that... These kits won't need a boil, just water and yeast... I added 2 liters of boiling water like the instruction told me. But like i said earlier in my post, I didn't pre-heat the canisters in water long enough, so the viscosity was still high when i poured it in my carboy. But i've gotten my answers now... so im just gonna wait the 4-5 weeks its gonna take to ferment.

 

[songe]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/86886523@N08/7950180636/in/photostream

 

[Revvy]

Oh well. Like I said the yeast will figure it out eventually. There's not really anything you can do about it now that wouldn't potentially oxidyze and beer already in there.

 

[songe]

Great! im a super newbie to this lol. my third beer im brewing so hope it turns out well!

 

[cheezydemon3]

Awesome!

Boil doesn't have to be complicated, and can involve just 2 gallons to be topped up after the boil to 5 gallons.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

Great! im a super newbie to this lol. my third beer im brewing so hope it turns out well!

Yeah, it may just take some extra time, but I'd guess the yeast'll go after the LME. Next time stir like an SOB and let it stand hot for 20 mins or so so everything gets mixed in.