Sweet Stout Left Hand Milk Stout Clone

[AngelP092]

Brewed 3 months ago. Best beer I have ever brewed. Thanks for being so generous and for sharing such a great recipe!

Cheers!!

Hi! Can you help me to do this recipe? I have few doubts, like how much water use in fly sparge (for 5 gallons) water profile that I need, after fermentation i have to put it in another fermentator ? and how many time and temperature. how many time
In bottle and temperature?
Really glad if you can help me! Thanks!

 

[AngelP092]

Just transferred to secondary and the aroma was fantastic. Cannot wait to try this. Will post a pic and tasting notes when I try it.

Hi! How many time You recommended me wait When finished fermentation to transfer to secondary? And how many time in secondary Before transfer to bottles? And temperature in secondary and in bottles... sorry my English, it’s not very good! Thank you

 

[Tyler B]

Hi! Can you help me to do this recipe? I have few doubts, like how much water use in fly sparge (for 5 gallons) water profile that I need, after fermentation i have to put it in another fermentator ? and how many time and temperature. how many time
In bottle and temperature?
Really glad if you can help me! Thanks!

I brew a lot of stouts and brewed this one recently. If you tell me more about your planned brew, I'll gladly do my best to help you.

Are you brewing all grain and building your water from RO? Are you BIAB or what kind of mash tun are you using? Do you use any brewing software like Beersmith or Brewers Friend or EZ Water?

For example, I do all grain and use a cooler for a mash tun. I mash with about 20-22 L (depending on the recipe) and fly sparge a similar volume. I mostly just follow EZ water and Brewers Friend for water chemistry.

As far as how long in primary, secondary, bottles, etc... I'd probably leave it in primary for 2-3 weeks and then bottle when it's finished. Skip secondary fermentation. Let it condition in bottles until it is tasting good to you. This might be two weeks or two months. Your choice. Taste one every week and decide for yourself. Once it tastes good drink it. Sometimes longer doesn't always mean better. A little patience almost always improves beers though.

Share more info and I'll do my best to help you. Also, your English is fine. Better than any other language I try to speak

Hope this helps!

 

[IslandLizard]

transfer to secondary

Don't use secondaries. They're not needed.
Leave the beer where it is ( in the primary fermenter), it's much better for your beer.
There are a few exceptions, none are for regular beers or beginning brewers.

 

[Joshua Hughes]

Good luck! I opened my first bottle and I used this recipe and it was really nice. Your English is better than my typed English for sure lol. welcome to the forum

 

[AngelP092]

I brew a lot of stouts and brewed this one recently. If you tell me more about your planned brew, I'll gladly do my best to help you.

Are you brewing all grain and building your water from RO? Are you BIAB or what kind of mash tun are you using? Do you use any brewing software like Beersmith or Brewers Friend or EZ Water?

For example, I do all grain and use a cooler for a mash tun. I mash with about 20-22 L (depending on the recipe) and fly sparge a similar volume. I mostly just follow EZ water and Brewers Friend for water chemistry.

As far as how long in primary, secondary, bottles, etc... I'd probably leave it in primary for 2-3 weeks and then bottle when it's finished. Skip secondary fermentation. Let it condition in bottles until it is tasting good to you. This might be two weeks or two months. Your choice. Taste one every week and decide for yourself. Once it tastes good drink it. Sometimes longer doesn't always mean better. A little patience almost always improves beers though.

Share more info and I'll do my best to help you. Also, your English is fine. Better than any other language I try to speak

Hope this helps!

Hi again! To start u don’t use no one app to adjust water profile but I shop tanks of 20liters purified water and I calculate the minerals I have to add, how many of bicarbonate, gypsum and CaCl I have to use to total water? I stimate for a 20liters batch i have to use 38lt total water (sorry, here use grams, kg and litres), so I need calculate to this total volume.
I use stainless steel cooking pot (30 litres and anothe of 70litres) for boil and mash.
To ferment I use an alimentary plastic tank of 30 liters and to secondsry I use another of 50 litres. after 21 days in 20° how indícate the recipe I think to put in the other tank to be less yeast, and more clean beer. And what if I put another 1 o 2 week in cold 0-5° after the 21 days primary ferment?( I have an extra freeze in my backyard to cold the beers that I’m doing)
Thank you, I can give yoI my WhatsApp if is possible to talk and share our experiences brewing!

 

[AngelP092]

Good luck! I opened my first bottle and I used this recipe and it was really nice. Your English is better than my typed English for sure lol. welcome to the forum

Thank you!! Can’t wait for cook this recipe!

 

[AngelP092]

Don't use secondaries. They're not needed.
Leave the beer where it is ( in the primary fermenter), it's much better for your beer.
There are a few exceptions, none are for regular beers or beginning brewers.

After the fermentAction is done, still use the airlock for 21 days? Or put another thing in that hole?

 

[Transamguy77]

This looks delicious! And I love me some left hand, going to put this on the list and with the weather cooling down I want to make some winter weather beers.

 

[IslandLizard]

After the fermentAction is done, still use the airlock for 21 days? Or put another thing in that hole?

Yes, keep the airlock on. Nothing goes in, but it can still blow an occasional bubble if it wants or needs to.

Keep the lid on until ready to bottle/keg.

3 weeks for conditioning is quite long, most beers can be bottled a week (or 2) after fermentation has finished.
Before bottling, make sure final gravity (FG) is close to expected.

 

[AngelP092]

Yes, keep the airlock on. Nothing goes in, but it can still blow an occasional bubble if it wants or needs to.

Keep the lid on until ready to bottle/keg.

3 weeks for conditioning is quite long, most beers can be bottled a week (or 2) after fermentation has finished.
Before bottling, make sure final gravity (FG) is close to expected.

Great tips! I will considere it for another styles too! Thank you

 

[Tyler B]

Great tips! I will considere it for another styles too! Thank you

I agree, keep the airlock on from brew day until bottle day. Don't transfer to secondary, keep it in primary. Don't open up fermentation bucket at all, if possible. I wouldn't take my first gravity sample for at least 10 days, probably 14.

Bottle a week or so after you have reached FG (not a week or so after brewing). Don't rush bottling it or you'll end up with over carbonated gushers that nobody enjoys.

Try to avoid transferring trub every step of the way so you don't end up with trub in your bottles. Leave some behind in the kettle and leave some behind when you transfer from fermentation bucket to bottling bucket. Brew a larger batch to account for these losses, if necessary. If possible, cold crash (in fermentation bucket) for a couple days before bottling. Be careful pouring your beer if you end up with trub in the bottle so it doesn't get in your glass.

As for water profile, there are tons of different opinions out there, so you'll probably have to experiment and find what you like. I'd choose something like Black Balanced/Black Full in Brunwater or maybe something like London (Porter, dark ale) on Brewer's Friend.

 

[AngelP092]

I agree, keep the airlock on from brew day until bottle day. Don't transfer to secondary, keep it in primary. Don't open up fermentation bucket at all, if possible. I wouldn't take my first gravity sample for at least 10 days, probably 14.

Bottle a week or so after you have reached FG (not a week or so after brewing). Don't rush bottling it or you'll end up with over carbonated gushers that nobody enjoys.

Try to avoid transferring trub every step of the way so you don't end up with trub in your bottles. Leave some behind in the kettle and leave some behind when you transfer from fermentation bucket to bottling bucket. Brew a larger batch to account for these losses, if necessary. If possible, cold crash (in fermentation bucket) for a couple days before bottling. Be careful pouring your beer if you end up with trub in the bottle so it doesn't get in your glass.

As for water profile, there are tons of different opinions out there, so you'll probably have to experiment and find what you like. I'd choose something like Black Balanced/Black Full in Brunwater or maybe something like London (Porter, dark ale) on Brewer's Friend.

I think I now know how to brew from the best way! These info applies for another styles like pale ale, hazy ipa, amber ale, and hoppy variations? I have a CO2 tank to put some when I open up Fermentator bucket for add But example dry hop

 

[matzou]

Hello people,

Back after a 2 years hiatus, I'am planning on brewing this but realized the roasted barley used for this recipe is very light (650 ebc vs 1200ebc for the normal ones)
Shall I go ahead with my english roasted barley 600srm/1200/ebc ?
Thanks

 

[Joshua Hughes]

Hello people,

Back after a 2 years hiatus, I'am planning on brewing this but realized the roasted barley used for this recipe is very light (650 ebc vs 1200ebc for the normal ones)
Shall I go ahead with my english roasted barley 600srm/1200/ebc ?
Thanks

I used 600 English and mine was good

 

[nick113]

Hi, i made this recipe a week ago. Today morning i took a gravity measurement and i found it 1030. I think it is a little bit high.
What is your opinion about the FG and about the recipe in general.
Thanks

Left Hand Milk Stout
Sweet Stout

Recipe Specs
----------------
Batch Size (L): 40.0
Total Grain (kg): 11.250
Total Hops (g): 84.20
Original Gravity (OG): 1.062 (°P): 15.0
Final Gravity (FG): 1.013 (°P): 3.3
Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 6.27 %
Colour (SRM): 42.3 (EBC): 83.3
Bitterness (IBU): 24.3 (Tinseth)
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 70
Boil Time (Minutes): 60

Grain Bill
----------------
6.000 kg American - Pale 2-Row (53.33%)
1.000 kg American - Roasted Barley (8.89%)
1.000 kg Lactose (Milk Sugar) (8.89%)
0.750 kg American - Caramel / Crystal 60L (6.67%)
0.750 kg American - Chocolate (6.67%)
0.750 kg American - Munich - Light 10L (6.67%)
0.500 kg Flaked Barley (4.44%)
0.500 kg Flaked Oats (4.44%)

Hop Bill
----------------
25.3 g Magnum Pellet (12.8% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (0.6 g/L)
58.9 g East Kent Goldings Pellet (5% Alpha) @ 10 Minutes (Boil) (1.5 g/L)

Misc Bill
----------------

Single step Infusion at 66°C for 75 Minutes.
Fermented at 20°C with M-42

Notes
----------------
The lactose was added in final 10 minutes of the boil

Recipe Generated with Brewer's Friend

After three months in the bottles, the beer is awesome. There is a clear sweetness, not too high. You can taste the roast and you can feel the chocolate. I tasted the first bottle one month after the bottling and until today the progress is unbelievable. I think the minimum in the bottle is about 2.5 months. Thanks for the recipe. I will definitely cook it again.

 

[matzou]

I used 600 English and mine was good

Let's see what other people opinion is, I was a bit scared about it being too much roasty but hey what do I know if I dont try.
Thanks !

 

[Cgeern]

Just kegged my first try at this recipe. OG of 1.063 but after 2 weeks only got down to 1.029. It hit that fg within the first week with a steady 66 degrees. Shook for a couple minutes to oxygenate before pitching, but maybe that’s not enough. Possibly mashed a degree or two too high. On day 7 tried ramping up temp in my chamber and shaking to rouse the yeast, but it didn’t budge. On day 12 I pitched a packet of 05 to see if there was anything left to ferment, but stayed at 1.029. 48 hours after the repitch, I decided it was done so I chilled it then kegged. Sample tastes quite sweet with strong coffee and chocolate flavors. Seems like it will be really tasty with a little time.

 

[Agent]

Just wanted to drop in to say this recipe is still finding new audiences.

Brewed it up as the inaugural beer for my Nitro setup. Practically a requirement IMO.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Just wanted to drop in to say this recipe is still finding new audiences.

Brewed it up as the inaugural beer for my Nitro setup. Practically a requirement IMO.

I currently have this in my fermenter, the third time I've brewed it. Like last time this will be my toasted coconut version. It's delicious, a great recipe.

 

[Shenanigans]

Sorry if this has been discussed before but I haven't read all 24 pages.
I was putting this in Beersmith and see that the roasted barley is 300 SRM which is approx. 600 ECB.
I only have acccess to 900 ECB Roasted barley which is approx 450 SRM. That's 1.5 times darker.
Should I just use less and make up the missing malt by increasing the pale malt?

Thanks.

 

[IslandLizard]

Sorry if this has been discussed before but I haven't read all 24 pages.
I was putting this in Beersmith and see that the roasted barley is 300 SRM which is approx. 600 ECB.
I only have acccess to 900 ECB Roasted barley which is approx 450 SRM. That's 1.5 times darker.
Should I just use less and make up the missing malt by increasing the pale malt?

Roasted barley mostly adds color and some flavor, no fermentables.
So, yes, use only 2/3 of the darker version to match color. I doubt there would be much difference in flavor at that darkness, unless someone has a different experience.

Since it doesn't add any fermentables, there's no need to make up any gravity with extra pale malt.

 

[Shenanigans]

Roasted barley mostly adds color and some flavor, no fermentables.
So, yes, use only 2/3 of the darker version to match color. I doubt there would be much difference in flavor at that darkness, unless someone has a different experience.

Since it doesn't add any fermentables, there's no need to make up any gravity with extra pale malt.

Thanks.
Now that I look at the recipe again it's the chocolate malt that is 900 ECB the roasted barley is from Best malt and is 1300 ECB, but I will still adjust accordingly. I also have pale chocolate malt if needed.

 

[IslandLizard]

Now that I look at the recipe again it's the chocolate malt that is 900 ECB the roasted barley is from Best malt and is 1300 ECB, but I will still adjust accordingly. I also have pale chocolate malt if needed.

Unlike roasted barley (which is unmalted), chocolate malts of different SRM/EBC values will have different flavors, not only color. Then there are noted differences among the various maltsters/processes too.

Ideally you would try to match the malts, to be of similar type and color values as close as you can to the recipe's. A 50% difference in SRM/EBC is quite drastic, and may not give you the same beer in the end, even if you tweaked the amounts somewhat.

When using a somewhat reduced amount of the much darker chocolate malt you could include some pale chocolate malt or add some extra, to compensate flavor. Layering dark malts adds extra depth/complexity in flavor/aroma. None of these dark malts add any fermentables, but they do bring tons of complex flavor to your (dark) beer, each color range adding different flavor/aroma aspects.

 

[Agent]

I personally prefer the light roast barley for a milder coffee-like sensation in standard strength beers like this. With the lighter roasts, the flavors and balance seem to mature in a timely fashion.

But sometimes you just need to work with what you've got!