Leaking MLT Blues............

[Yesfan]

I have had a time trying to stop my 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler (from Home Depot) from leaking but to no avail. I bought some wide rubber washers at Lowe's and went ahead and splurged on another 10 gallon cooler, an Igloo, in case I had screwed up the Rubbermaid trying to get it to seal (I did crank down hard with a wrench a few times).


I seemed to have fixed the issue with the Igloo by using a wide rubber washer I had bought when at Lowe's. I still had to snug it a bit with a wrench, but I didn't torque it down like I did with the Rubbermaid. It's been about 1.5 hours with hot tap water (110F) filled toward the top and no leaking. I know that's not close to strike water temps, but is that a good sign to move forward on my next brew?

 

[heckels]

I had issues with my Rubbermaid cooler leaking. You may be able to get it to seal now but there's nothing worse than having it start leaking again in the middle of your brew day.

I had it happen in the middle of mashing in and set me back an hour emptying everything out, getting it to seal again and starting over.

Go to Menards, HD, Lowe's or similar preferred hardware store and look for DAP 100% silicone by the caulk. Flip it over and double check to see that it is food safe and will withstand high temps (I think it's rated 500F). I did this and had no leaks for the two years until I sold the mash tun.


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[masskrug]

I fixed my leak with Gorilla Glue.

 

[Bobby_M]

You can install a leak free bulkhead in any cooler without resorting to adhesives and caulk.

 

[Spookgolds]

The easiest way is to use the rubber gasket that comes with the cooler. The plastic spigot doesn't need to be cranked down to seal, so you shouldn't have to do that when you use it.

 

[Dan]

Don't crank it down. Light pressure seems to work best for me.

 

[Yesfan]

The easiest way is to use the rubber gasket that comes with the cooler. The plastic spigot doesn't need to be cranked down to seal, so you shouldn't have to do that when you use it.

I tried that and was unsuccessful. I didn't crank down hard on the Igloo like I did with the Rubbermaid and still had leaks after hand tightening and then just snugging it a bit with a wrench. In the end I went to Lowe's and got a couple of thick rubber washers.It was either here or the NB forums where I read someone had luck with those. When I installed the washer, I also had re-taped the bulkhead. I put a lot, I mean a LOT of tape on the bulk up to the point where I had to semi force it through the cooler hole. I still had a leak when I hand tightened, but it seemed to stop when I snugged it with a wrench. It held water for 4 hours before I dumped it.

The thing I worry about is strike temps. 160-170 is hotter than 110 tap water. Will I be alright going forward or should I do a leak test with 170F water?

Thanks gang for the help.

 

[big_len]

What sized metal washers are you using ? The ones with the big outter diameter, fender washers, cause nothing but trouble - I have no idea why everyone says to use them in this conversion. Use plain washers.

Also are you sure you have enough washers on the outside for the rubbermaid cooler ? There has to be enough washers on the outside that the tapered threads do not fully lock up. If the threads lock up, there won't be enough pressure on the seal to do its job.

As bobby_m said, every cooler can be sealed without needing extreme measures.

 

[Yesfan]

The ones that usually come with the bulk head kits from Bargain Fittings. I have three washers total. I tried all three on the outside first with no luck. Then I moved one to the inside behind the rubber washer I bought at Lowe's. That seems to have done the trick.

I thought the washers were to space the ball valve out to keep the handle from hitting the cooler when you close it. With two washers on the outside, I still have clearance.

 

[big_len]

It depends on the method - I had guessed you were using the DIY method from this thread, and was basing my advice on that :

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/

I don't have any experience with the bargain fitting's kit I'm afraid.

EDIT: Looking at that kit, none of what I previously said applies - disregard it!

 

[masonsjax]

The problem in most cases is that a cooler has two layers of plastic with foam in between which all flex when you try to tighten down the bulkhead. You need to either put something rigid in between the inner and outer walls like a piece of pvc pipe, or remove part of the outer wall and foam so you're bulkhead is only tightening down on the inner wall. I did the latter and never had a single drop leak out.