Kettle upgrade - How to add whirlpool?

[arnobg]

Been brewing BIAB for a while now with my 9 gallon Bayou. I'm ready to step it up and get an 10 gallon Spike V3 (really fits 11 gallons). I want to go custom route and be able to build into it later with a pump and get a whirlpool port added to the kettle.

I need advice on placement of the whirlpool port as I have never used this technique. How high should it be and should it be offset from the out port? I normally do 5-5.5 gallon batches and nothing smaller. If I do smaller I will use my old 9 gallon kettle so that isn't an issue.

I'd like to get this right the first time since this kettle should be a lifetime kettle.

 

[jekeane]

Talk to the guys at spike they will set it up right for you. I worked with Ben there and my eherms kettles all turned out well.

 

[Crazyeyes]

I like having a whirlpool arm that mounts high on the side of the kettle and drops down within 3-4 inches of the bottom, check out the spin cycle whirlpool arm from Brewhardware, Bobby makes some nice stuff at a reasonable price.

 

[jekeane]

I have Bobby's whirlpool arm on one of my kettles and it does a good job.

 

[arnobg]

So it doesn't affect it in a negative way to have it so low? I contacted Spike and that is what they recommended as to not get in the way of the bag, but I don't see it being in the way any less than that setup. What's the benefit of it being so low like that?

 

[jekeane]

the main benefit is the ability to do multiple size batches. I am realizing now that you are maybe more concerned about recirculating your mash and not whirl polling for chilling and hop stands. For mash recirculation I am not entirely sure what your best option would be. I would think you best option for mash recirculating would be to run a spare arm or hose into your bag rather than a whirlpool fitting.

 

[arnobg]

the main benefit is the ability to do multiple size batches. I am realizing now that you are maybe more concerned about recirculating your mash and not whirl polling for chilling and hop stands. For mash recirculation I am not entirely sure what your best option would be. I would think you best option for mash recirculating would be to run a spare arm or hose into your bag rather than a whirlpool fitting.

That's what confuses me, I am just looking to whirlpool not recirculate during mash, yet they mentioned it being low as to not get in the way of the bag. I guess it makes sense though because the tube will be there when the bag is in too.

 

[schematix]

Something to consider carefully with a whirlpool port is the nozzle size because velocity is key to a good whirlpool. You want to reduce your pipe diameter at the last moment so you get an increase in velocity.

When i built mine i tested with a variety of fittings and the one that worked the best was about 5/16". The worst was 5/8".

 

[Qhrumphf]

I'd aim to the middle of your batch or maybe slightly below.

You also don't need it to go all that fast for an effective whirlpool, and too much velocity (especially if it's too fast) is going to disrupt the settling of the hob/trub cone. If you can vary the speed, start it slow and then speed it up slowly to keep consistent, smooth motion. Get it steadily spinning for maybe 15 minutes, and then let it slow to still. It's the slowing that does the work, not the speed of the whirlpool.

 

[schematix]

It's the slowing that does the work, not the speed of the whirlpool.

You are correct, but the speed from which you start is important. Too slow and the liquid won't be making a full rotation in the kettle. You don't need a vortex by any means, but if you don't have noticeable movement on the surface then it's not fast enough. You'll get something, just not as good as it could have been.

 

[Qhrumphf]

You are correct, but the speed from which you start is important. Too slow and the liquid won't be making a full rotation in the kettle. You don't need a vortex by any means, but if you don't have noticeable movement on the surface then it's not fast enough. You'll get something, just not as good as it could have been.

The speed at the end of the active roation before allowing to slow is what matters more than the initial spinning. But you want to get it smoothly rotating, and without turbulence. Hence why I say start slow, and slowly increase it until you're at the speed you want. If you just crank it on at full bore right from the start and create a bunch of turbulence in the kettle you're working against yourself.

 

[hezagenius]

How's the whirlpool going to work with a bag in the kettle?

 

[Qhrumphf]

Although without the ability to dial the pump speed I'd sooner have it go full speed from the beginning than never fast enough. Perhaps I'm spoiled.

 

[jekeane]

That's what confuses me, I am just looking to whirlpool not recirculate during mash, yet they mentioned it being low as to not get in the way of the bag. I guess it makes sense though because the tube will be there when the bag is in too.

my main concern with both of my whirlpool fittings (i have bobby's on a 10g kettle and one from bargain fittings on a 20g) was helping to chill while using an immersion chiller. Both do the job very well and I have them rather low to fit the minimum batch size. i get trub cones with both however I am not super concerned about keeping trub out of the fermentor. The side pickup whirlpool fittings have some play, maybe 1" up or down as to where the release.

I think your main concern should be what is the smallest batch size I will want to whirlpool and make sure it is below that level. I do 3g - 6g gallons in my 10g kettle so bobby's fitting works very well for me in that kettle.

 

[arnobg]

How's the whirlpool going to work with a bag in the kettle?

Whirlpool is done after the boil, so there is no bag in the kettle during a whirlpool.

 

[Gavin C]

I added a whirlpool by removing the dial thermometer. (I really saw no need for one after many batches.)

Went from my makeshift whirlpool.

To my current setup. Works great. Shaved off about 33% of my cooling time.

I BIAB. Non-issue if adding a whirlpool arm.

FWIW I think Bobby M 's are what to go for if you don't already have a hole (that would not work for his part selection) in the kettle as I did. They are lower profile.

 

[Epos7]

I picked up one of the Spike kettles recently. I had them custom weld four 1.5" tri clover ports 2" from the bottom of the kettle. My logic was that gives me flexibility to add an electric element, drain valve, thermocouple, and inlet for either a whirlpool or mash recirculation setup. If I want to do mash recirculation I think I'll look into replacing my bag with a basket. That would allow me to recirculate similar to how Colorado Brewing Systems does it on their Nano Brewer setup. They clamp the outlet port over the rim of the kettle and have it drop down inside the basket. That seems to me like a great way to do it.

Here is a picture of the Colorado Brewing Systems setup:

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0733/0497/products/system_2.JPG?v=1462477781

 

[arnobg]

I picked up one of the Spike kettles recently. I had them custom weld four 1.5" tri clover ports 2" from the bottom of the kettle. My logic was that gives me flexibility to add an electric element, drain valve, thermocouple, and inlet for either a whirlpool or mash recirculation setup. If I want to do mash recirculation I think I'll look into replacing my bag with a basket. That would allow me to recirculate similar to how Colorado Brewing Systems does it on their Nano Brewer setup. They clamp the outlet port over the rim of the kettle and have it drop down inside the basket. That seems to me like a great way to do it.

Here is a picture of the Colorado Brewing Systems setup:

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0733/0497/products/system_2.JPG?v=1462477781

I'm interested in seeing this setup on the spike kettle if you get time to share a photo or two.

 

[Epos7]

I'm interested in seeing this setup on the spike kettle if you get time to share a photo or two.

I don't have it set up that way yet, but I put some thought into it to "future-proof" my kettle, so to speak. I arrived at that configuration after a few discussions with Spike, input from this forum, and studying the Nano Brewer systems from Colorado Brewing Systems. If you just want to see where the ports are, I can snap a picture after work today. Spike did a great job on the tri clover welding.

 

[arnobg]

I don't have it set up that way yet, but I put some thought into it to "future-proof" my kettle, so to speak. I arrived at that configuration after a few discussions with Spike, input from this forum, and studying the Nano Brewer systems from Colorado Brewing Systems. If you just want to see where the ports are, I can snap a picture after work today. Spike did a great job on the tri clover welding.

Sorry, that is what I meant. I'd like to see that.

 

[Epos7]

Here is the layout from the outside of the kettle.