Keggle Curiosity

[CollinsBrew]

I'm just about to commit to buying an All-Grain set-up from someone, which includes two converted kegs, a 10 gal Gott cooler with manifold and valve, a Phil's false bottom, Phil's Sparger, all materials for a CFC and a couple other attachments. I'm getting a great deal but was wondering about one of the keggles.

One keggle has the ball valve spigot on the side and the other has it on the bottom of the keg. They are welded fittings but I can only imagine that the one with the valve welded to the bottom is supposed to be used as the HLT.

My question is, how am I supposed to heat the sparge water in the HLT if the valve is on the bottom? A propane burner would destroy the valve and if I did how would I attach a line to get the sparge water to the mash tun? Is this the type of HLT that would need an electrical heating element? I have seen keggles with spigots on the bottom but can't remember how they were used.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.....THANKS!!....in advance

 

[HenryHill]

Yup, can't heat it directly, as is.

Gonna hafta either hand feed it hot water or use a RIMS system and pump heated water into it, draining out the bottom and sending it to the heat chamber, generally containing a low density electric hot water heater element, then back to the kettle.

This is one example, the possibilities of other methods or variations are ENDLESS.
http://hbd.org/kroyster/

But since the bottom fitting is welded, you could just put in a pipe plug, (I would use SS, due to direct flame) and heat it on a burner.

 

[Bobby_M]

Or I suppose you could add the heating element directly into the keg.

 

[Craig5_12]

I adopted a keg like this too and a friend of mine made a burner for it that went around the drain tube.....just another possibility.

 

[Bobby_M]

Good point, how about plumbing it with copper far enough away from the burner and put the valve on there. It just means you'll have a little bit of water in the line that doesn't get as hot but it shouldn't affect your infusion temps that much.

 

[CollinsBrew]

Plumbing some copper piping away with the valve at the endsounds like a pretty easy fix. Would the flame from a propane burner get hot enough to melt the solder on copper piping?

Also, I think I saw a DIY on here on how to make a heatstick that can be dipped right into the top of the HLT. That could be just as easy and keep me from having to buy a second burner.

 

[Lil' Sparky]

You could also use it as your MLT, but you've got to have a way to support the sides to get it up high so you have access to the valve.

I got one free just like you're describing. After a few frustrating tries with it, I took it to the scrap yard and bought a new one with the $25 I got back.

 

[HenryHill]

Putting a soldered copper fitting near a flame will get it hot enough to melt the solder. Figure it gets heat for 1 - 1 1/2 hours...To do it best, you'd need to FLARE the copper tube (like when using it to feed a burner) and use a flare nut, with a male flare fitting in the bulkhead.

Putting an element right in the bottom of the tun will cause problems with stirring.

This decision is hinging on what other method you will use to heat it. The pipe plug puts you back to original, and you can decide to use the bulkhead later.

 

[CollinsBrew]

I am really wanting to use the hardware I'm getting with this set up since it is all stainless...including the valves....Of course, I could use it as my MLT and use the Gott cooler as the HLT. However, I'm trying to build a 3-tier system since I really don't have the money for pumps and all the fixins'. That being said, I'm trying to keep from having to lift many gallons of hot water to the top tier so if I can find a way to use this keggle on the top then I'll be happy.

From the looks of it I may be building a heatstick or buying a BucketHeater. I'm just wondering if a 1500W 120V heatstick or BucketHeater will heat 7-10 gallons of water to at least 180 degrees in a reasonable amount of time? This way I only have to have gas lines going to one burner. KISS is my motto!!

 

[HenryHill]

Here's one link, and I've seen another one, bodensatz or Tastybrew, can't remember which. They make me nervous....The other one I saw showed silicon breakdown after 5 or 6 brews.

http://hbd.org/pcalinsk/HeatStk3.htm

 

[CollinsBrew]

Yeah I saw that link when I did a search. I also found this one that has a step by step with pictures and the use of JB Weld and some kind of silicone. He says he has gotten long use out them since changing the design a little. My biggest fear is electrocution since I have had the pleasure of catching 120V up the arm a few times while repairing some audio gear.

Also, I will only be heating sparge water so maybe the adhesives will hold up a little longer.

 

[AiredAle]

As long as there is water in the copper pipe, the solder won't melt since the temp can't get above the b.p. of water. Just try soldering a joint on a copper water line that has even a little water in it.

 

[CollinsBrew]

Does anyone know if one 1500W 120V heatstick will get 5-10 gallons of water to 170*F in a sensible amount of time?

 

[WOP31]

Ooh ooh pick me pick me......I have an electric HLT Keggle I have two 115V I belive they are 1500W apiece, I didn't build it, bought it as is. But it works really good, I haven't tried to heat the water up straight out of the tap with it yet, I just put it on the burner and get it up to about my strike temp then kick on the heaters, they suck a ton of juice, i plug them into two different circuits just to make sure that they don't pop a breaker. I brewed on the 7 of april and it was about 30 deg outside and they kept the HLT at 200deg the whole brew session. here is a pic there are more in my gallery.

Cheers

 

[CollinsBrew]

I figured two would definately work but I wonder if only one will do the trick? I don't plan on permanently installing the heating elements. I'm going to make a heatstick to handle it since my HLT will be on the top tier over my head and I am trying to avoid lifting it while full of hot water.

 

[WOP31]

I am sure that it would work, i have to toggle one of mine off and on to maintain temps, during warmer brew sessions.

 

[casebrew]

If Collin's keggle has the drain valve dead center int he bottom, he could screw in a piece of stainles or brass pipe, then an el to the outside. Put the valve outside of the fire. Use a 'banjo' burner, run the plumbing through the middle. Using it only for heating sparge water means it won't burn any wort in the pipes. Nor have any sanitation probs with dirty pipes.

Sounds like a batch of used equipment. It may have a solution in the boxes of junk that come with it.

 

[JimC]

As long as there is water in the copper pipe, the solder won't melt since the temp can't get above the b.p. of water. Just try soldering a joint on a copper water line that has even a little water in it.

Be VERY careful with that logic. Apply enough heat long enough to the water in a sealed/closed system and it will turn to steam, pressurize, then melt the solder joint THEN spray high pressure scalding hot steam all over the place. You don't want to be anywhere near that. If there is an open end somewhere, you will get boiling water and steam spilling out of it for a few minutes and then the joint will go.