yes i do, however i will put the gas back on to pump it back up to 30 after 24 hours.
Kegging-how long do you wait to drink it?
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yes i do, however i will put the gas back on to pump it back up to 30 after 24 hours.
I kegged a pale ale on Saturday. Set the psi to 14 in a 42 degree fridge. Gave it a nice shake monday for 3 min. Poured some decent pints last night that were carbonated enough to drink, but not fully carbed. Moving forward this is going to be my go to method.
I always age in the keg for at least a month or two. I keg, purge, seal with 30PSI, then let it sit. When it's ready to serve I force carb at 30PSI at room temp for 24-hours. I pop it in the kegerator and hook up at serving pressure for a week - then serve.
Bigger beers will sit longer. I've got one that's been conditioning for about 6 months. I take a taste every now and then to see how it's doing.
Bigger beers will sit longer. I've got one that's been conditioning for about 6 months. I take a taste every now and then to see how it's doing.
tshinefield
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jflongo said:
Yes!
I kegged a 7 day old pale ale last night, yes, 7 days old. Proper pitch rates, well oxygenated, carefully controlled ferm temps (including a ramp-up after FG was stable, which only took 4-5 days). Tastes excellent, not "green" at all, of course, pales and IPAs are usually best fresh anyway, but no off-flavors.
I put it on 30psi, vented a bit, then shook in 15 second intervals, twice. This might be the fastest beer I've had, but I always let the beer tell me when it's done, and this one was done. There's no reason to leave it in the keg longer, plus I'm almost out of beer in kegs anway.
I put it on 30psi, vented a bit, then shook in 15 second intervals, twice. This might be the fastest beer I've had, but I always let the beer tell me when it's done, and this one was done. There's no reason to leave it in the keg longer, plus I'm almost out of beer in kegs anway.
Yeesh. Some of you guys that carb for 2-3 weeks, I'm really amazed you have that kind of patience.
I specifically picked the model freezer I did for force carbing. 4 kegs on the floor connected to taps, 5th one on the hump force carbing.
Keg from secondary (going to secondary in kegs soon), then it goes right into the keezer and onto the gas. Seat the lid, burp the headspace 5-6 times at 5 PSI, then crank it up to 3x serving pressure for 24 hours. Comes out pretty damn close to perfect every time. After 24 hours, drop it down to serving pressure and pour off a half glass of trub that goes down the sink. If I need to carb something else, I'll pull it and let it sit at room temp until I have space again.
I shook my first keg because I couldn't wait. It still took longer to carb correctly because I overshot the pressure a bit and had to wait a day for it to bleed back off.
I specifically picked the model freezer I did for force carbing. 4 kegs on the floor connected to taps, 5th one on the hump force carbing.
Keg from secondary (going to secondary in kegs soon), then it goes right into the keezer and onto the gas. Seat the lid, burp the headspace 5-6 times at 5 PSI, then crank it up to 3x serving pressure for 24 hours. Comes out pretty damn close to perfect every time. After 24 hours, drop it down to serving pressure and pour off a half glass of trub that goes down the sink. If I need to carb something else, I'll pull it and let it sit at room temp until I have space again.
I shook my first keg because I couldn't wait. It still took longer to carb correctly because I overshot the pressure a bit and had to wait a day for it to bleed back off.
I drank an 8 day old Cream of Three Cops (7 days primary, 1 day force carb) not too long ago. Didn't come out very clear because I didn't use gelatin, but it was still quaffable. Missing a bit of taste that I've come to look for now.
Drank BierMunch's Kona Fire Rock at 9 days (it was a day behind the Cream Ale). Just about right. (Edit: Looked at brewing notes, it was actually 16 days. Apologies.)
I wouldn't push a Barleywine to 8 days or anything crazy. I'm bottling the other 5 gallon half of each batch, and I'll compare again at 1 month, but I doubt I'll find much difference.
Feel free to go straight into the keg. Shove your autosiphon hose right over a liquid quick disconnect. Leave the lid pressure relief valve open and start siphoning away.
Can't think of any benefit to hitting the bottling bucket first.
Can't think of any benefit to hitting the bottling bucket first.
BansheeRider
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You talking about connecting the ball lock valve to the auto siphon?
The hell is a "ball lock valve"? Google isn't helping.
I'm very specially referring to a quick disconnect that goes on the liquid post.
Is that what you meant? If so, then yes, I connect the autosiphon straight to that and siphon straight down the liquid diptube.
See bottom center.
I'm very specially referring to a quick disconnect that goes on the liquid post.
Is that what you meant? If so, then yes, I connect the autosiphon straight to that and siphon straight down the liquid diptube.
See bottom center.
BansheeRider
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The hell is a "ball lock valve"? Google isn't helping.
I'm very specially referring to a quick disconnect that goes on the liquid post.
Is that what you meant? If so, then yes, I connect the autosiphon straight to that and siphon straight down the liquid diptube.
See bottom center.
Just got into kegging a few days ago so sorry for using the wrong terms. Yes that is what I mean.
No worries mate. Last time I didn't ask, the guy said "pressure vessel" and I assumed he meant "keg". Turns out its some British Mr. Beer device. Gave a page of bad advice before somebody said something.
DougK
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Horribly off topic....
I had a buddy from Britain visiting and we went out to a local bar for some libations. The waitress came over and asked "Can I get you guys sorted out" and he busted out laughing.
I took pity on the poor girl and explained that bit of British slang to her. Boy did she turn red.
A good practice is to pressurize the keg and purge it a few times before you rack your beer to the keg. This gets the O2 out of the keg. You'll see a layer of 'fog' in the keg. That's your CO2 layer. When you rack you'll have a layer of CO2 between your beer and the air. It will help minimize oxidation.
DougK
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Makes sense. Thanks.
Good grief why have I never thought about doing this?!?!
I typically remove the lid and just rack to the bottom of the keg with the lid off like I was shown when I started. I think I just changed the way I rack to my kegs.
If you can see the CO2 'fog', then it'll likely de-stratify while you're siphoning in, allowing some O2 back into the mixture.
Best to leave the lid on, IMO. Fluid coming in will create a slight positive pressure in the keg, pushing the CO2 out slowly and keeping O2 ingress through the relief port minimal.
...
Cheers! (Friends Don't Let Friends Drink Badly Carbed Green Beer)
It has to be done. It's part of the learning curve!
DougK
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Good grief why have I never thought about doing this?!?!
I typically remove the lid and just rack to the bottom of the keg with the lid off like I was shown when I started. I think I just changed the way I rack to my kegs.
I have that a try this weekend. I was able to siphon starsan into the keg no problem. When I tried to siphon beer, it wouldn't go. Ultimately I ended up dropping the tube through the open cover. I tried keeping the exhaust valve open and then cracking the cover open. I'm not sure what was going on. Oh well, I have a few more beers to perfect the process on.
Did you get resistance when trying to pump the autosiphon? That would indicate that either the disconnect wasn't fully seated, or that you have the wrong poppet (too long or too stiff) installed in the liquid post.
DougK
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No, it pumped just fine, it just wouldn't hold a siphon.
Yes. Be sure that the keg isn't pressurized when you connect it.
Ask me how I know...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-destroy-auto-siphon-get-black-eye-386252/
Odd. You have a leak somewhere then. As long as you have no leaks and vertical height difference, there's no reason for the siphon to stop (other than the occasional re-prime to account for line friction, of course).
WroxBrew
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Probably a dumb question, but how do you know when its full with the top on? Just let it squirt out the relief valve? I have a 15 gal fermenter.
the siphon will stop when there's no more room in the keg.
Which means you're past full.
Easiest way to know you're going to be full is to look at the volume marked on the outside of the bucket.
WroxBrew
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Unfortunately I'm not using a bucket. I'm coming straight out of a 20 gallon SS conical.
Crack the lid and look down in then. You'll lose some of the CO2 blanket, but most people siphon into bottling buckets and other vessels that don't get that benefit anyway.
If you must keep the bucket (edit: blanket), then your only real choice to to use a scale. Fill it up with 5 gallons of water, weigh it with the fittings attached, and have the scale turned on while filling. You'll come out with just shy of 5 gallons of beer.
