Kegerator Conversion: Frigidaire LFPH44M4LM

[BIGREDIOWAN]

Ah, gotcha, what I would plan on doing with my whole bar idea is raising the fridge up some and basically building it into the bar. I figure if it's a foot to 16 inches off of the ground it'll work if I put the taps on the door. If I don't then I'll have to put a tower on it and I don't know if I'm really comfortable doing that. I figure I'll just put a drawer underneath the fridge for extra storage and it'll get it off the ground. I need to sketch something up though.

 

[mrduna01]

I have run in to a hicup using the plexiglas that I wanted to let anyone know about who may be going this route. In some spots of the door several inches or more of insulating foam was removed to flatten everything out. This insulation being taken out has had more of an impact than expected. For whatever reason the fridge doesn't turn on as soon as the temp drops below a certain point... Maybe it runs in intervals regardless of the temp depending on the setting. Without the insulation it loses cold through the door very very quickly and before it turns back on the ice formed on the inside top of the fridge due to condensation has already began melting creating puddles and warm beer lines. I have purchased a 4x8 sheet of foam insulation from lowes for 11 bucks and put it on the inside of the door. Hopefully this will correct the problem and I can still give it a finished look when I know it does the trick. I will post again when I figure this out.

 

[pericles]

Hm, that's strange; I haven't been having that problem at all! Do you think it's caused by the plexiglass, or something else?

 

[mrduna01]

I have seen most of the time people using wood or materials other than plexiglass which naturally insulate. Plexiglass doesn't insulate at all. I imagine that's the culprit. But either way I think this foam will do the trick and once I see how it does I will put the foam behind the glass, paint the edges and get it looking nice again.

 

[mrduna01]

Hm, that's strange; I haven't been having that problem at all! Do you think it's caused by the plexiglass, or something else?

Have you noticed the door is cool to the touch and/or frost/ice on the inside top of the fridge?

 

[BIGREDIOWAN]

Thanks for the update, I was at Lowe's this past weekend looking at this fridge. I'm gonna wait another week or so before I go and buy it as I need my tax refund in the bank before I do. Definately keep us updated!

 

[BIGREDIOWAN]

Any updates???

 

[pericles]

Have you noticed the door is cool to the touch and/or frost/ice on the inside top of the fridge?

On mine, the door isn't any cooler to the touch than the rest of the fridge. There's a little bit of frost on the top of the fridge, but not much, and it's not melting or dripping.

 

[mrduna01]

What number out of 1 to six do you set it to?

 

[pericles]

Usually 4.

 

[repomanz]

i have mine set at 1.. sitting at 41f.

 

[mrduna01]

Ok so I think I'm in good shape now. I don't think I was leaving fridge alone long enough to let the temp stabilize and I didn't have the foam insulation I added sealed down in any way. I taped the edges and any and every hole, gap, and seam around the foam to the existing seal with weather stripping tape and double checked the seal around the door and I think that did the trick. All is working well from what I can tell.

 

[pericles]

Way to go, and thanks for the update!

 

[BIGREDIOWAN]

So what if I bought a thin piece of wood veneer to go on the backside of the door in place of the plexi-glass or foam insulation? I imagine it's not really gonna help insulate anything, but it's just a question I have. What type of foam insulation did you buy? A link would help to make sure I get the right thing if I go that route. Want to make sure I don't have the same issues before I go spend the money. Thanks in advance.

 

[mrduna01]

Some have not had the insulation issue that I have had but me personally I would not recommend anything without insulating capabilities. I am still having issues believe it or not with condensation freezing and then melting and freezing again. Then it donned on me that when I put in the plexiglass I used two pieces and did not seal the two together leaving an open space. This may be where the air is escaping. I sealed that area with the weatherstripping tape a few minutes ago and doubled up the insulation (1 inch now). I also sealed a few other possible problem areas as well and I'm waiting to see how that does. Even given the issues I have had im still enjoying the trouble shooting aspect of this and probably any other diy project.

The insulation I got was from lowes. It's a 4x8 sheet of green polystyrene foam rated at 3.3 on the insulation scale (mid range if I'm not mistaken). The sheet ran about 11 bucks. They also sell sheets of the same stuff that was in the door to start with for about 15 dollars and it's got double the insulating capabilities. Search insulation foam on lowes.com and it will show you what I purchased.

 

[finny13]

I plan on doing this build next week. I have everything ordered and its on the way. Is it really necessary to cut a piece of project board to cover the insulation on the inside of the door? Im assuming it may have some impact on insulation if you don't cover it with project board?

Has anyone just got the plastic shelving off then drilled the holes for the taps and put the door back on?

I feel like I've also seen a build on here where they didnt even take the shelving off the door. Just drilled 2 holes through the front and were able to fit 2 ball lock kegs in. I have it bookmarked at my apartment. Unfortunately right now Im at work.

 

[mrduna01]

I wouldn't say the board is a must but you need to have something there to support the nut on the shank and give it some back bone.

There are two fridge models... The one at best buy doesn't have the can rack and may not need modified but the one from lowes does for two kegs.

 

[BIGREDIOWAN]

I agree with what mrduna01 just said, I've also heard that the pinlocks are harder to fit in these fridges than the ball locks, but that is just because of the internal side of the fridge door. I would rather not cut into the door, but Best Buy was $10 higher for the same fridge with the different door. Don't know if I'm gonna pay $10 extra for something from Best Buy.

 

[mrduna01]

Yeah true best buy is more expensive but I believe it doesn't need modified and you may be able to keep the warranty on the fridge and won't have to fuss with insulation issues. If I did it over I might go that route but not ripping a fridge door apart would take all the fun out of it!

 

[BIGREDIOWAN]

Yeah, I see what you're saying, but I think the warranty would be screwed anyways by drilling through the front of the door. I just need to decide which Perlicks I wanna get. The regular ones or the creamer...............

 

[mrduna01]

Yeah, I see what you're saying, but I think the warranty would be screwed anyways by drilling through the front of the door. I just need to decide which Perlicks I wanna get. The regular ones or the creamer...............

Ha, duh! The warranty WOULD be bad regardless... I am drinking Homebrew, forgive me!

 

[finny13]

This is the conversion that I was going to do and he has smaller pieces of wood for support. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kegerator-build-107132/



After reading your last comments above, I heard pin locks won't fit in this fridge. I have ball locks so it won't matter to me but I read that the pin locks were too wide

 

[Flyin]

This is the conversion that I was going to do and he has smaller pieces of wood for support.

After reading your last comments above, I heard pin locks won't fit in this fridge. I have ball locks so it won't matter to me but I read that the pin locks were too wide

Correct, pin locks are a bit bigger in diameter & won't fit without door mods.

I just did a test fit in mine (Best Buy) & 3-3gal kegs fit with no mods, 1-5gal & 2-3gal also no mods, 2-5gal & 1-3gal I need to move the light/t-stat. I'm sure I'll need to cut to fit a 1/6 with a 5gal & 3gal. Looking at it with all 3gal kegs in it you might be able to use a 20oz. paintball co2 & keep it inside.

 

[BIGREDIOWAN]

I'm ordering my ball lock conversion kit as we speak. This should make the SWMBO happy in the morning.

 

[mrduna01]

Good luck!

 

[mrduna01]

Finally officially complete. Left it alone for a couple days after another round of insulation mods and alast NO CONDENSATION! . I'm finally done and very happy. Beer is freaking ice cold now!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60398739@N07/5551127864/

 

[DCPiet]

thanks to pericles for this build, i just finished it up earlier tonight and put my very first keg ever on tap. it was indeed straight forward, and someone with little mechanical talent (me) can easily do it.

i covered the front door with chalkboard paint, so i can write what's in each tap (see photo here). by rotating the temperature control 90 degrees and removing the light bulb i can easily fit two cornys in there, and there's enough room at the top of the door for the two taps (i must have measured about 10 times).

i'll have to watch it over the coming weeks to see if any condensation issues develop, but in the meantime i'll eagerly wait for my fat tire clone to carb up.

 

[pericles]

belair asked me if a 5-1/8" shank would work for this build. I tried to PM him back, but his inbox is full so. . . hopefully he'll get my answer here. If others disagree, please weigh in and let him know!

Do you think the 5 1/8" shanks would extend so far into the fridge that they would hit the kegs / interfere with closing the door?

In my opinion, 5-1/8" shanks will be too long; my own 4 inch shanks are already so long that the door will only close if I shimmy the keg around so that the shank goes through the hole in the handle. Longer, I think, would make it impossible to close.

Moreover, you're going to have to connect the beer-line to the shank. The longer the shank, the sharper the bend in the beer-line and, also, the more foaming you'll get.

 

[63belair]

Pericles, you sir are a gentleman and a scholar!

(forgot that sent messages count toward your inbox as well! )

I noticed on your build that the faucets are mounted slightly lower than other similar builds on here. Do you think if I mounted the faucets closer to the top of the door, near the black frigidaire trim, there would be enough room for the 5 1/8" shanks?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60398739@N07/5511112052/

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kegerator-build-107132/

My current plan is to use the below kit from keg cowboy. Do you think the 3 1/8" shanks would be long enough to reach through the door? (also, the fridge I am picking up is the Best Buy model with the removable plastic shelves, rather than the can rack on the door. I would like to avoid cutting the interior of the door if I can)

http://www.kegcowboy.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=135

Sorry for the multiple questions, I'm trying to get a handle on this build without having the fridge or kegs yet.

Thanks again for the great pictures and build write up, as well as answering my questions. I really appreciate it!

 

[pericles]

No problemo.

Do you think if I mounted the faucets closer to the top of the door, near the black frigidaire trim, there would be enough room for the 5 1/8" shanks?

I think there's enough space to fit a shank between the top of the keg and the fridge ceiling. So yes, that could work.

Do you think the 3 1/8" shanks would be long enough to reach through the door?

It would easily fit on mine. I'm pretty sure it will on yours, as you describe your build - but remember that I tore the door apart, so my completed door is thinner than the original model.