Keezer Collar the Coastarine Way

[zahrndt_usmc]

Many people choose to get digital temp controller because they tend to be more accurate and easier to use. I don't have any experience with the analog versions but I was able to get digital controller for $50 from http://www.climatedoctors.com/items/item.aspx?itemid=429705. It works awesome. You do have to wire it with a regular 3 prong extension cord which really is not difficult at all. You can easily do it by following the last picture on this link http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=40898.

Awesome thread, this is gonna be my next project (dont tell SWMBO) But i do have a question about that temperature controller that you have to wire, i am not exactly a tech savy kinda guy and the directions seemed vauge at best, so i wanna make sure im understanding it right. You take an extension cord, cut it in half and expose the wires and a 3 inch additional peice. insert the wires in the unit, and then plug the extension cord into the wall and the freezer into the other end of the extension cord.... If im completely off please let me know. thanks for all the great info.

 

[Hang Glider]

zahrndt- if you're not comfortable with the electronics, get a pre-wired controller.

they come in analog and digital formats, usually about $60 for analog, $80 for digital (this pic is from Northern Brewer).

Of course, if you want to wire it all yourself, you don't mind the readings in Celsius, and that it comes from China, you can search eBay for an Aquarium temp controller, and search thru here for instructions and ideas. That will put you in the $40 market.

 

[janzik]

How is that seal holding up? I was going to use the old seal that was on my lid, but during the reattachment process, I realized that the inner diameter of my collar is a hair too big to fit the original seal. I was thinking about just cutting it at the 2 back corners (so I have 1 U shaped piece and 1 straight piece, and just silicone sealing the hair line gap between the back 2 corners, but this stuff looks a lot cleaner than the dirty (actually worn and old looking) seal that was on my lid.

 

[alexnphillips]

Alright, I started building my coastarine collar this past weekend (i'll put pics up once its done). What are you using for a drip tray? Mine is in my kitchen and I didn't want to be cleaning up drops everynight. I was planning on getting one of those 14" tall ones that could be bolted into the wood and I would just take on and off whenever I was changing kegs. I noticed that all of the tall ones (tall backsplash) are meant to have the taps go through them. I was imagining the kind you could take on or off easily.

 

[deezy]

Great collar build, gonna give this a shot as soon as I can pick up a freezer.

 

[Coastarine]

My seal is still holding just fine.

My drip tray is two smoker boxes with the lids removed held on with magnets. Both found at home depot/lowes and all for less than $20.

Here's an example of someone else using the same smoker box in a slightly different fashion:

 

[alexnphillips]

My seal is still holding just fine.

My drip tray is two smoker boxes with the lids removed held on with magnets. Both found at home depot/lowes and all for less than $20.

Here's an example of someone else using the same smoker box in a slightly different fashion:

I am building mine with the collar system so I don't have the option of that style drip tray. It looks great though. A buddy of mine did something really similar coming through the wall of a stand up freezer. He ran the taps through the door of the freezer and then though a box just like yours on the outside to give it a little more of a stainless look.

 

[Coastarine]

I obviously have a collar and I use that same drip tray. Magnets dude. That's not my keezer, mine is the one in the how-to pictures in this thread.

Here

 

[alexnphillips]

I obviously have a collar and I use that same drip tray. Magnets dude. That's not my keezer, mine is the one in the how-to pictures in this thread.

Here

NICE! Never thought of magnets...

 

[BrewMoreBeers]

That's not entirely true. Wood has an approximate R-value of 1 per inch. Since most wood you would be using is of the 2 X variety (which is actually only 1.5 inches thick) Your collar portion will have an R-value of 1.5. As opposed to rigid foam insulation which is actually a full 2 inches thick and has an R-value of 10.

Edit: Sorry, I'm an energy engineer. I can't help it.

I made mine out of 1x4 oak. The 1x4 has much less weight than the 2x4 so the stock hinges have less stress on them. Also, the oak is denser so it should be more durable for the long run.

However, i did find the freezer (a modern eStar Frigidaire) was cycling frequently and the heat sink was actually warming up my 16x12 mancave. I added two layers of foam insulation to the collar and it dramatically reduced the cycling of the condenser and the heat output.

My build is mostly held together with Grab Glue. But, I did reinforce the corners with some metal brackets.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

NICE! Never thought of magnets...

Just don't set a full glass on the DT and yer okay.

 

[BrewMoreBeers]

I used Grab Glue for my drip tray. I have to clean it in place, but it's easy. It's more than strong enough to hold a full pint. Just tape it in place when you glue it on so that it does not slide down while the glue cures.

 

[TomSD]

Lots of great info, thanks! I'll be mounting mine on the side for a better fit where it is going but for the most part will be following your build. Great idea on the drip trays too... much cheaper.

Putting some casters on it to make it easier to move around too.

 

[BriarwoodBrewer]

This is a great thread. I have an old freezer that was given to me and I got a free Ranco digital temp control from work. So I am well on my way to completing my keezer- taps and collar next. I can store 8 kegs easy in the freezer if needed, but I will most likely install 4 taps at first.

 

[jvh261]

so much great info in this thread... I think I'm going to pick up that dehumidifier from amazon. seems like it'll be cheaper than damp rid in the long run. I'm still using picnic taps inside the chest freezer, but my perlicks are here and ordering my shanks this week. heading out to home depot today for some oak and insulation. This thread prosted.

 

[Aunt_Ester]

Although I've never heard of a miter box -- and I think it's an awesome alternative to a powered miter -- I was curious if there are any drawbacks to just squaring the edges with a couple of nails instead of going through the pain of getting the angles right.

 

[wedge421]

Looks great man!

 

[jvh261]

Laziness and not brewing much over the summer has me sitting here with everything I need to finish the collar, but I'm left wondering what the advantage is of attaching the collar to the lid vs. the freezer. My thinking was that my lid would remain light and (hopefully) stay upright when I have it open. I would just screw the lid into the back of the collar with L brackets if need be. If I have to remove the lid liner, no prob and I'd just weather strip the top of the collar to create a seal. I'm just doing a 3 faucet keezer since that's all I need/have room for. Picked up some free insulation this weekend, so maybe get this together next weekend...thanks for any thoughts/info.

 

[Hang Glider]

Collar secured to chest, lid on collar:

Pros: lighter, less clearance required, no moving the seal. Existing hinges screw to collar. Collar attaches easily to base with a bead of silicone caulk

Cons: higher to lift a full keg. May have to pull beer lines out of the way


Collar secured to lid:

Pros: - less beer-line interruption, less height when moving heavy keg

Cons: more clearance required when opening, heavy to open. Move seal to bottom of wood. Fastening collar to lid requires more than "a little silicone" and requires moving hinge to collar/chest junction.

 

[vince805]

Collar secured to chest, lid on collar:

Pros: lighter, less clearance required, no moving the seal. Existing hinges screw to collar. Collar attaches easily to base with a bead of silicone caulk

Cons: higher to lift a full keg. May have to pull beer lines out of the way

Collar secured to lid:

Pros: - less beer-line interruption, less height when moving heavy keg

Cons: more clearance required when opening, heavy to open. Move seal to bottom of wood. Fastening collar to lid requires more than "a little silicone" and requires moving hinge to collar/chest junction.

I have a double hinge, all the pro's without the con's

 

[subliminalurge]

Once you cut your pieces it will be time to drill the holes for the shanks. My shanks called for a 1" hole and I believe that is standard. I used a spade bit for this. Remember to drill a 1/8" pilot hole and make sure to start the hole on the face that will be the outside.

No.

I'm definitely on the newbie side of homebrewing, but I have done my fair share of woodworking in the past. Drilling a pilot hole for a spade bit is going to cause you nothing but headaches... Just stick the point on your center dot and go for it. Spade bits do not need a pilot hole, if anything they just throw you off....

 

[bgburdman9]

So this collar is attached to the lid with just the heavy duty liquid nails?