Keezer collar attachment

[Revvy]

I just carved out the 4 squares where the bracket extended in the foam, screwed it into the wood, and then, what I don't show for photo purposes is I wedged the foam piece I cut away back over the bracket.

 

[Aschecte]

I just screwed mine straight through the insulation, less hassle that way.

I can definitely see how this would make my life easier..... I only used 3/4" r4 board so I think 11/4 screws would actually work well if I do I go straight through the board. Thanks !!

I just carved out the 4 squares where the bracket extended in the foam, screwed it into the wood, and then, what I don't show for photo purposes is I wedged the foam piece I cut away back over the bracket.

I like that regulator manifold set up.... Mines a bit different than that my regulator is at the tank itself only a single regulator that I split using a co2 manifold between 3 tanks. Not ideal but I've found tricks to carb the new tanks while maintaining pressure at the other 2 for serving. I know it's easier to go through the foam board but I actually think your setup directly to the wood is probably more stable...... I commend your skill at cutting those small squares out for the mounts.

 

[thadius856]

Seconding the clear silicone caulking for air gaps. That's the best way I've found without voiding warranties. I used it on my first two freezers, and have a few tubes laying just in case the third one needs it.

I would have stuck with the 1-1/4" wide weatherstripping and just trimmed the excess off carefully with a fresh blade in a razor knife.

Finishing up my 8-tapper, and using that same black 1-1/4" stripping. Though I have a 2x10 collar with 1x12 face over it, so I have more bearing surface than you do.

 

[Aschecte]

Seconding the clear silicone caulking for air gaps. That's the best way I've found without voiding warranties. I used it on my first two freezers, and have a few tubes laying just in case the third one needs it.

I would have stuck with the 1-1/4" wide weatherstripping and just trimmed the excess off carefully with a fresh blade in a razor knife.

Finishing up my 8-tapper, and using that same black 1-1/4" stripping. Though I have a 2x10 collar with 1x12 face over it, so I have more bearing surface than you do.

Yeah in hind sight I thought that I should have kept the full face covered with the 11/4" stripping and trimmed the excess from the inside portion. Hind sight is 20/20 as they say. I was happy though with the caulk though, it definitely sealed those gaps and after I put the insulation over that hopefully no moisture will get to the wood. I'm also running a Eva-dry E-333 silica dehumidifier and a tub of damp rid so, am I going over board maybe but I'd rather it be bone dry in there than to get rot or mold growth.

This is where I'm at now ( you can see the caulk filled gaps on the one side still )

 

[nextgenxx]

I also added a thin board on top of foam then screwed in secondary! Just trust your own self and go with your gut feeling if it will work or not! You've made it this far

 

[Aschecte]

Ok I'm DONE !!!!! pics to follow but one last quick question..... I used PL300 foamboard adhesive to adhere the foam board to the inner collar..... What's a good rule of thumb for that stuff to cure and for me to turn the freezer now a keezer back on ? I know on Loctite's website it says full cure at 7 days but.. My BIL who is a builder says that is a blanket statement as they do not know if it is exterior mount, interior mount, in Jamaica or in antartica and temp/humidity makes cure times vary based on all those variables. He seemed to feel like grab time with 1-2 hours and full cure within 24-48 hours at room temperature in upstate NY. does this sound about right or should I wait longer to turn this bad boy on ? Pics will follow very soon and thank you everyone for the help so far.

 

[Punity]

I would say after a day at room temp you should be fine. I sprayed mine with loctite adhesive and let it sit a day worked like a champ.

 

[Aschecte]

I would say after a day at room temp you should be fine. I sprayed mine with loctite adhesive and let it sit a day worked like a champ.

Yeah and I've had it on and clamped down since Saturday night... I'm gonna roll with it and turn her on. Thanks for the input.

 

[Aschecte]

Ok here's the final pics... The only thing I haven't done yet and it's stupid is just mount the temp control to the collar but the probe is in place and its operational.

 

[Punity]

Looks great you ll love it. I love having fresh on tap in my garage. So do my friends those cheap bastards.

 

[Aschecte]

I'm already loving it !!!! and what's even better it's in my kitchen !!!! I can get food AND beer on tap !!!! what's better than this ? NOTHING !!

 

[Revvy]

Looks spiffy!

How come you didn't pre cut the hole for the temp controller? So when you got the cool bottle opener did you also order the cap catcher, unfortunately they didn't have it in that same vintge aluminum of the opener.

 

[Aschecte]

Looks spiffy!

How come you didn't pre cut the hole for the temp controller? So when you got the cool bottle opener did you also order the cap catcher, unfortunately they didn't have it in that same vintge aluminum of the opener.

Thanks !!!

No believe it or not I'm the president of a HomeBrew club of about 60 members and our lhbs supporter just brought in a bunch of kegging /dispensing merchandise. I wanted a keezer anyway so my build was actually a keezer build demo that we started at our last meeting on march 21st..... All the parts including the bottle opener came from the lhbs. He did t have the cap catcher... Where did you find that I still need to get that as well as a drip tray.


As to the temp controller I use a Johnson A-419 control and to be honest I just couldn't see how to internally mount that particular control. I should and still may pick up a stc-1000 control, now that most def should be put directly into the collar.My control will be mounted externally on the collar though on the right side towards the back.