Is there a way to better filter the yeast out of the bottles?

[james138]

I'm not really sure how to phrase this without going into to much detail, but I've noticed some mild stomach issues after drinking my home brew. I've never really noticed this before but the issues I've had are always the next morning. I've only noticed this issue recently. I'm guessing it's caused by drinking some of the unfiltered yeast in the bottle. I try to prevent this by leaving about an inch left in the bottle when I poor my beer. My question is there anything I can to to prevent these side effects in the future? Is there something I can do during the brewing process? I should note that these issues are minor but annoying, but not enough to stop me from drinking or brewing. Thanks!

 

[wormraper]

I'm not really sure how to phrase this without going into to much detail, but I've noticed some mild stomach issues after drinking my home brew. I've never really noticed this before but the issues I've had are always the next morning. I've only noticed this issue recently. I'm guessing it's caused by drinking some of the unfiltered yeast in the bottle. I try to prevent this by leaving about an inch left in the bottle when I poor my beer. My question is there anything I can to to prevent these side effects in the future? Is there something I can do during the brewing process? I should note that these issues are minor but annoying, but not enough to stop me from drinking or brewing. Thanks!

sounds about right. Most people's digestive system isn't attuned to absorbing that much yeast in their system. your body should get used to it after a while (if not you might have a yeast allergy)

 

[DanaDana]

Only real work around would to do what your doing, or to bottle off a keg.

 

[james138]

Thanks!

 

[NoRoom4Error]

I am new to brewing and kegging and have noticed my beers are commerical clear comming out of the keg. I can only guess that perhaps while sitting in the kegfridge the sediment is being left behind. Just an idea but have you given thought to kegging. It really makes homebrewing aLOT more fun when you don't deal with bottles 90% of the time.

 

[james138]

I am new to brewing and kegging and have noticed my beers are commerical clear comming out of the keg. I can only guess that perhaps while sitting in the kegfridge the sediment is being left behind. Just an idea but have you given thought to kegging. It really makes homebrewing aLOT more fun when you don't deal with bottles 90% of the time.

Can I ask about how much more of an investment going to legging is? Just curious.

 

[grimstuff]

I had some of that the first week or two I drank homebrew. Then I guess my system got used to it and never had an issue since.

 

[johnp]

Can I ask about how much more of an investment going to legging is? Just curious.

You can get a basic kit with one keg and all the fittings and everything you need for ~$150.

 

[beergolf]

Just put your bottles in the fridge for longer. The yeast will. cake up on the bottom and not get so much in the pour.

Also your system will get used to it.

 

[drhookmec]

I don't know anyone that has used these but i have heard they do work and may be cheaper then a kegging setup.

http://sedexbrewing.com/

Here is a video

 

[Bierliebhaber]

Before you go too far (kegs are awesome btw) buy some hefs from the store. Agitate the bottles before drinking by gently rolling them on their side. There should be plenty of yeast in there and if you have stomach issues still, it's like the yeast. Otherwise, there may be something else going on.

 

[Golddiggie]

Just put your bottles in the fridge for longer. The yeast will. cake up on the bottom and not get so much in the pour.

Also your system will get used to it.

This is one of the reasons why I recommend chilling bottle carbonated brews a full week (or more) before pouring them to glass.

After a while your system WILL get used to what homebrew gives it. Depending on what you make, that could be the long chain sugars (for higher body brews) giving you the blats, to the yeast doing more.

Kegging does seriously reduce what goes into the glass though. Especially if you use the 2 week 'set and forget' method for carbonating. That gives the keg two full weeks (or more) to have everything settle to the bottom (think of it as cold crashing without additional rackings and needing more fridge space). If you give it longer, then pretty much everything that can settle out, will. At most, the first glass with have something extra in it. IF you're really good at getting the brew into the keg, though, that will be reduced.

 

[james138]

Thanks, those are all great suggestion! I just got done watching the video and that looks like it might work. I think the only design would be form factor and giving my beer away with those funky caps. But I might give it a shot. I'm wondering if using a secondary fermenter would help. I don't really want to do the extra work but it might be worth it.

 

[Golddiggie]

Thanks, those are all great suggestion! I just got done watching the video and that looks like it might work. I think the only design would be form factor and giving my beer away with those funky caps. But I might give it a shot. I'm wondering if using a secondary fermenter would help. I don't really want to do the extra work but it might be worth it.

Not sure what the video shows (wasn't about to sit around for ~18 minutes to see) but IMO, getting 'caps' that are supposed to take care of this is throwing money away. TIME in the fridge will do a LOT to reduce sediment in the glass (with a good pour). Also using yeast that compacts well (high or very high flocculation ratings) will do a LOT here. IMO using a secondary vessel won't help you out. The same amount of yeast will be in suspension unless you do something else to remove it (filter, use other fining agents, etc.). IMO, more trouble than it's worth too. Especially when you can get the same level of results with more time in the fridge once bottle carbonating is complete.

You CAN get zero sediment in bottles IF you bottle off of keg. Mostly because the sediment is in the keg, not the bottles.

 

[HeavyKettleBrewing]

Before you go too far (kegs are awesome btw) buy some hefs from the store. Agitate the bottles before drinking by gently rolling them on their side. There should be plenty of yeast in there and if you have stomach issues still, it's like the yeast. Otherwise, there may be something else going on.

+1. Do this first. There are also bottle conditioned beers other than a hefewiezen if it's not your poison. Summer is here and a hef with an orange or lemon really takes the heat off. Sedex caps are shipped from Australia, no US distributor since I looked last. You will need screw top bottles and the caps themselves may set cost as much as a full keg setup. They are innovative, though. Let us know if you get them.

 

[TyTanium]

Yeast is ridiculously good for you, BTW. Google search: health benefits of yeast

Your gut will get used to it. And love you for it.

 

[SmoothSmoke]

Anyone use whirlfloc?

Also, I recommend getting a keg system too...even though I dont have one. I sure plan on getting one though.

 

[hepcat]

Yeast is ridiculously good for you, BTW. Google search: health benefits of yeast

Your gut will get used to it. And love you for it.

Yes I'm glad it doesn't bother me, sorry it bothers you james138. It's loaded with b vitamins and I don't taste it when I drink it.
I just try to do a careful pour after refrigeration, as already suggested and am happy with that.

 

[Trophy_Brew21]

I have noticed putting the beer into a secondary helps alot, put it into a secondary for a couple days, then transfer to bottling bucket or keg, and it has worked well for me!

 

[Golddiggie]

Anyone use whirlfloc?

Also, I recommend getting a keg system too...even though I dont have one. I sure plan on getting one though.

Not noticed any difference in performance between Whirlfloc tablets and Irish Moss. I've used both (currently using Irish Moss) and they both help with the cold break, in kettle/keggle, equally well. Since it only impacts the brew in kettle, not fermenter, I don't see it mattering either way. I also have a batch (now in kegs) that I forgot the whirlfloc in. Came out just as clear as when I did use it.

With the yeast I use, all of them rated at least 'high' for flocculation, I've not needed do rack to a brite tank to get them to clear nicely. I get a nice, solid, yeast cake in the bottom of the primary with each batch, so it's all good.

You might want to check the yeast you're using. See if you can find one that has a better flocculation rating that will give the same end results. Give it more time in primary too, and it will clear even better. IMO/IME, there's really zero need to rack to a brite tank IF you give the batch enough time. You can get just as good, if not better, results with the long primary method. One less racking means one less chance of contamination/infection for that batch. Plus, being more patient with your brews will produce better end results. At least it is with all the ales (and things using ale yeast) that I'm brewing.

 

[NoRoom4Error]

Can I ask about how much more of an investment going to kegging is? Just curious.

Well it's not cheap but it pays back over time. I have two kids under 7 years old and well I can't take 5+ hrs to brew/bottle. I bought my kegerator from amazon for $380 shipped. Nostalgia is the brand and so far no complaints. My process: When I keg I also brew another 5g the same day and when the keg kicks I move the brew from the primary to the keg and brew again. So easy...

CHEERS

 

[Golddiggie]

Start looking on Craigslist for an used chest freezer or fridge. You can easily modify one of those to hold the kegs. Then its just a matter of getting a CO2 tank, regulator, hoses and fittings (including faucets of course). You can take it in steps/stages as you go. Check out the kits from places like Keg Connection for the hardware.

I would advise getting enough of the 3/16" ID Bevlex (beer line/hose) so that you can run at least 10' from each keg to the faucets. Rule of thumb is one foot of hose per one psi of pressure (CO2 feed) the keg is on.

Look jn the DIY section of this site for some ideas of how to build up your keezer/brew fridge.

 

[HeavyKettleBrewing]

Start looking on Craigslist for an used chest freezer or fridge. You can easily modify one of those to hold the kegs. Then its just a matter of getting a CO2 tank, regulator, hoses and fittings (including faucets of course). You can take it in steps/stages as you go. Check out the kits from places like Keg Connection for the hardware.

I would advise getting enough of the 3/16" ID Bevlex (beer line/hose) so that you can run at least 10' from each keg to the faucets. Rule of thumb is one foot of hose per one psi of pressure (CO2 feed) the keg is on.

Look jn the DIY section of this site for some ideas of how to build up your keezer/brew fridge.

Goldiggie,
I have my tap handles hardlined into my cornies with a quick disconnect. I have 48" of hose from regulator to each corny. PSI set at 5lbs. Seems to give me the best pour. What's the reason behind "the rule of thumb?" Sorry for getting of topic.

FWIW--Did not want to punch holes in a new fridge quite yet and don't like the idea of cleaning out beer lines and cheap plastic picnic taps.

 

[Golddiggie]

Goldiggie,
I have my tap handles hardlined into my cornies with a quick disconnect. I have 48" of hose from regulator to each corny. PSI set at 5lbs. Seems to give me the best pour. What's the reason behind "the rule of thumb?" Sorry for getting of topic.

FWIW--Did not want to punch holes in a new fridge quite yet and don't like the idea of cleaning out beer lines and cheap plastic picnic taps.

I put holes through the door of a perfectly good, brand spankin new, fridge for taps.

I also use 10' of hose and run them at either 8psi (for my brown ales, porters, or where I want less carbonation) or 12psi (for my pale ales, IPA's, etc. that I want more carbonation with). The longer beer line helps maintain the carbonation in the beer (back-pressure keeps the CO2 in the beer) and helps maintain a good pour at serving pressure.

IMO, going with 5psi is not good. Unless you like having your brew undercarbonated. You'll have to keep the brew damned close to freezing (34-35F) in order to get just 2 CO2 volumes in it. If you have your beer at a higher temperature then it's either carbonated lower, or you have to constantly fiddle with it in order to not pour a glass of foam. IMO, that kind of hassle simply isn't worth it. Suck it up, put your 'man pants' on and put some holes in that fridge.

Are you using the taps directly on the ball lock QD's??? You realize that's really for when you take a keg someplace else, can't take your CO2 source, so you take one of the pocket chargers with you, right?

Oh, and the inside of my brew fridge:

That was when I had three 3 gallon and one 2.5 gallon kegs in it. Right now I have four 3 gallon kegs in it (three on tap, one carbonating).

Also, I keep the CO2 tank outside the fridge, sending the gas through the fridge walls via a pair of bulkheads. Since I have a dual body regulator, I can easily send in two different pressure sets. I can also easily tell how the tank is doing without opening the fridge door. I also enjoy pouring a pint without opening the door.

 

[DrummerBoySeth]

Those are AWESOME tap handles... Are those 50 cal? If not, what size are they?

 

[HeavyKettleBrewing]

I put holes through the door of a perfectly good, brand spankin new, fridge for taps.

Suck it up, put your 'man pants' on and put some holes in that fridge.

Are you using the taps directly on the ball lock QD's??? You realize that's really for when you take a keg someplace else, can't take your CO2 source, so you take one of the pocket chargers with you, right?

Also, I keep the CO2 tank outside the fridge, sending the gas through the fridge walls via a pair of bulkheads. Since I have a dual body regulator, I can easily send in two different pressure sets. I can also easily tell how the tank is doing without opening the fridge door. I also enjoy pouring a pint without opening the door.

All your points are valid and yes, I need to change out of my manties and drill some holes in the fridge. My setup below was to hold me over until I figured out where I was going to place the handles. I am using the taps directly on the ball lock. The other option at the time was to run a picnic tap which looked ghetto and I figured I could always retrofit the tap handles when I made the switch. I get more foam at the higher PSI. I don't know why. Maybe running the keg to tap is counter productive. How many feet of hose from keg to tap? Once again, sorry to hijack but if the OP is considering kegging, you will be better prepared when making the switch.

 

[HeavyKettleBrewing]

BTW--Nice setup

 

[Golddiggie]

BTW--Nice setup

You've got the start of a nice setup too... I bet you could fit another keg in there if you put the CO2 outside the fridge.

Those are AWESOME tap handles... Are those 50 cal? If not, what size are they?

Yup, all 50 cal BMG items. Got the full load (obviously rendered safe) off of ebray. The other two are ones I made from some shells I have on hand. I just threaded some nylon bushings that are hot glued into the openings.

I have some 20mm rounds (also dummies/safe) that I intend to make into handles once I've moved and have a keezer, or brew fridge where I have the clearance needed to mount them. Right now, I think it would just be too tight. Or I wouldn't be able to open up the freezer door (I keep my hops there) with the handles on.

Of course, I have Perlick 575SS and 525SS faucets. I've added a spacer before the flange (outside the fridge) so that I can push back easier on the 575SS faucets. That gives me the 'creamer' effect. :rockin: Just some items from McMaster-Carr... Not shown in the picture I posted though.