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Is a cheap grain mill worth it?

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iambeer

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I have my eyes on a cheap grain mill.

As opposed to the $70-$200 mills that you can buy from homebrew markets.

Anyway, is the cheap grain mill worth $20-$30, and is it the worth the hassle? Does anyone here love their cheap grain mill?
 
Love my Corona. Cheap. Effective. Efficient. Consistent. Enough. And that's all I need. It's not about the gear, it's about the beer.
 
A simple observation.

I went into my favorite LHBS where they sell $200 mills and filled my grain order as usual. When he went into the back room to mill my barley he forgot to close the door. I was blown away by a cordless drill attached to a bargain basement grinder.

Revvy's would be an upgrade! :ban:
 
Looking into a mill. Glad the Corona has such good reviews. Corona it will be. As soon as it is in stock.
 
Well not to poop all over the party, but I actually bought one of the cheapest corona-style mills out there through an Amazon partner and had lots of trouble with it. It was $25ish with shipping (Prime membership), and made from the cheapest materials. Had to replace all of the hardware on it and then the only bolt I could find to fit it wasn't metric (the mill is), so I had to cross-thread it with an imperial bolt... which subsequently has been stripped from using drills to drive it. And since we cross-threaded it, it's not going to back out. I can still make it work if I screw with it a bit, but it wasn't worth the trouble anymore.

So last week my two brew buddies and I broke down and spent the $150 on the Barley Crusher sold through Brewsmith's site for a small discount. Lifetime warranty and no-fuss exact crush settings are what sold me.

Don't get me wrong, you can do just fine with a corona-style mill, but just don't buy the cheapest one you can find, or you'll find yourself in my situation.

Also, +1 to the malt conditioning. That made a huge difference in reducing the amount of shredded husks.
 
Pistols,

Thanks for your point of view. It's good to consider all aspects.

Amazon sells one mill called Corona but it's actually a generic "Corn" mill they misspelled. And other various POS's (based on reviews) for around $30... The Victorya/Corona mill is harder to find and not that cheap I guess, around $60 retail or more.

This helped me realize I'm way too casual and too new to buy a mill, even a little one. My supplier cracks grains for me. And I don't want to buy bulk grains, so for now I have everything I need. Plus I just joined the star san cult so now I have to buy that.
 
I have the $20 Amazon special Victoria mill in the bucket a la "ugly junk" and it works fine. It took quite a bit of work to get it dialed in. If I had to do it over (and I still probably will at some point), I would work out a similar setup using a barebones JSP MaltMill for $85. A roller mill will give more consistent crush with less fiddling on setup.
 
A roller mill will give more consistent crush with less fiddling on setup.

Curious: do you mean granular consistency in each batch, or consistency across batches, or both, and what benefit do you expect to get from whichever consistency you are talking about?
 
I have the $20 Amazon special Victoria mill in the bucket a la "ugly junk" and it works fine. It took quite a bit of work to get it dialed in. If I had to do it over (and I still probably will at some point), I would work out a similar setup using a barebones JSP MaltMill for $85. A roller mill will give more consistent crush with less fiddling on setup.

That was basically my experience too.
 
I love my Corona-style mill. I'd say if anything dial it in to crush slightly on the fine side and just vorlauf well when you sparge. Haven't had any noticeable tannins noted, including a contest beer. I am looking at conditioning but I always forget.
 
I have the cheap Victoria mill from Amazon for $20. It has crushed about 100# of grain so far, no problems.
 
Because of the shearing action of these types pf mills, it is important to do malt conditioning by adding water to make the husk more flexible tokeep it as whole as possible. I use .29 oz H2O per pound. I fill a spray bottle w/ water and set it on a scale and tare it. Then squirt and stir until I get to negative ( whatever the #/oz works out to). Then I mill.

Works like a charm.
 
I use a Corona mill and I don't "condition" the grain. Works like a charm, so it can't be all that important.
 
Alright... Whatever, can't ya just let me feel good about it for a little while?

Seriously, if I thought I was wasting my time I wouldn't be doing it. Kapisch ?
 
Just saying. I don't do it, get nice, whole husks, good crush and consistent good efficiency. So maybe you are.
 
there is no comparison between conditioned grain and not conditioned grain when milling that's why commercial breweries do it. try it and you can not fail to see the difference.
 
You see what you see. I see fine results without it. Look, I know people get "married" to their process "improvements". I know, too, that to appear to call them into question rankles people. These so-called improvements are, as often as not, simply following the herd. I'm saying I routinely use my Corona, routinely get a great crush, routinely get a good yield, and routinely get fine, whole husks. I didn't say you shouldn't condition. Though I do think there's a really good chance that you're wasting your time. But feel free. I crank my Corona by hand and I know that's a waste of time. Spend your time the way you like. Defend your sacred cows all you like. I don't do it, don't need it, do fine without it, and THAT is how I define "unnecessary".
 
Look, I know people get "married" to their process "improvements". I know, too, that to appear to call them into question rankles people. These so-called improvements are, as often as not, simply following the herd.

While I'm not arguing with you because I think you are correct on how people tend to adopt new things and then staunchly defend their process, have you ever conditioned your malt?

Conditioned_malt_065mm.jpg

Source

You tell us which one you think is conditioned. Same crush settings on the same mill with the same amount of grain. One of those is far more likely to cause a stuck sparge than the other.

As an owner of a corona mill, I can tell you I'd never go back to running dry grain through it again.
 
i suppose the one on the left is the conditioned malt. Interesting I had never heard about that before.
I guess some research is in order.
PS: do I win anything if i guessed right?
 
ReverseApacheMaster said:
I piss in my mill before crushing grain. Really helps with the hulls and getting mash ph down.

Customer - "this beer tastes like piss"
bartender - "because we piss in it!"
El Mariachi ftw
 
I don't have a problem with stuck sparges. None. There's no argument here. This process is put forward as somehow "necessary". Newer brewers will read that and accept it. They'll then repeat it as if it were gospel. Nonsense. It's simply NOT NECESSARY. Do it if it makes you feel better, or if it looks better in a jar, or for whatever reason you choose to do it. But I don't prefer to add unnecessary steps. With all due respect, YMMV, you're free to do as you like, et cetera.... have it your way.

Pistols, here's the conclusion from your source (emphasis mine): "I think that this is an advanced technique for the home brewer and that you should not worry about it as a beginner and even a veteran should only try it when there is interest in this subject. I like to do it because it makes me feel good about my process and it does offer some advantages. Once I figured out how the malt should feel, there were no more messes with the mill either. The mash seems better suspended, which should be a good thing especially with thin mashes, but the lauter can still get stuck when using lots of grain. But that must have to do with the amount of flour that is produced with my tight crush."

Your source and I seem to agree about this technique.
 
There is a very large difference between "cheap" and "inexpensive". Learn it!
 
i suppose the one on the left is the conditioned malt. Interesting I had never heard about that before.
I guess some research is in order.
PS: do I win anything if i guessed right?

You win 1 billion internets!

I don't have a problem with stuck sparges. None. There's no argument here. This process is put forward as somehow "necessary". Newer brewers will read that and accept it. They'll then repeat it as if it were gospel. Nonsense. It's simply NOT NECESSARY. Do it if it makes you feel better, or if it looks better in a jar, or for whatever reason you choose to do it. But I don't prefer to add unnecessary steps. With all due respect, YMMV, you're free to do as you like, et cetera.... have it your way.

Pistols, here's the conclusion from your source (emphasis mine): "I think that this is an advanced technique for the home brewer and that you should not worry about it as a beginner and even a veteran should only try it when there is interest in this subject. I like to do it because it makes me feel good about my process and it does offer some advantages. Once I figured out how the malt should feel, there were no more messes with the mill either. The mash seems better suspended, which should be a good thing especially with thin mashes, but the lauter can still get stuck when using lots of grain. But that must have to do with the amount of flour that is produced with my tight crush."

Your source and I seem to agree about this technique.

Just let me say up front that I'm not arguing with you and agree that everyone should just brew their own way.

That said, you didn't answer my question: Have you ever done this?

There are advantages to doing this, whether or not it is necessary. The same is true for many aspects of brewing. I'm interested in making the absolute best beer I can, so I do this. Unsurprisingly, so do commercial breweries.

My source and you agree only in that you don't need to do it if there is no interest, but he also says he does it because he sees advantages. That's fine if you don't care, it certainly doesn't bother me. I also see the advantages, so I do it. That's why it gets recommended ad naseum. It also takes all of 5 minutes, so the only advantage I can think of to not doing it is you save a very small amount of time. That may make a difference to some folks either way.

My mileage showed that I got a lot less dust, way fewer shredded husks and I could crush a bit finer when I conditioned first. If you're doing a BIAB, then it's certainly not as advantageous, but it always was for me when using a MLT.
 
I used a corona style mill for a long time and recently upgraded to a Monster Mill. I started getting inconsistent results with mine, mostly due to needing to lock down the set screw better or some other thing. It was difficult to fine tune to the crush I wanted (it was either full kernals, powder, or crushed - no real shades in between). I could have continued to use it just fine and just deal with the little nuances it had. I typically got 70 percent efficiency although like I said, sometimes my crush was off and I had to remill or reset, etc. For me, I had a gift certificate and splurged on something I wanted. I know for sure now that the crush will be exactly the same time after time and there's less variability in my process, and therefore less hassle the night before or during the brew day. Did I NEED a new mill - no? But it's a nice to have and I really enjoy the dependability, configurability, and convenience it offers.
 
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