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Inline Coolant Chiller - No pond pump required.

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The pressure vessel is the hardest part. I think the idea of a corny keg is a good one if anyone can figure out how to convert the post threads to garden hose. I suppose you could try removing the poppets and clamping hose directly over the posts. It should work up to a certain backpressure. Here's what I found on keg thread:
...SNIP...
It gets a little silly though to sacrifice a corny that's able to hold pressure. I have one that's a little bent where the Oring would engage so I wouldn't trust it for CO2 leaks and I don't mind if it squirts a little water either. Maybe I'll give it a try after I verify that I can't persuade the lid to seal better.


This link mentions
The threads are unique, they are not even close to a National Pipe Thread (NPT) at all. I'm a machinist by trade. I can't even find a standard tap this size (19/32- 18).using a npt fitting will ruin your existing threads. I would suggest using a ball lock or pin lock fitting depending on your keg, with a short piece of tube and then what ever fitting you want.
Re: Threading Female Pipe onto a Corny Keg Post Thread?

I tried looking for 19/32 female BSPT ( British Pipe Threads -- Tapered ), but no luck yet.

FWIW, some garden hose quick disconnect fittings that were laying around snap onto posts. At first, I thought the reduction from the hose through the poppet opening would kill the flow rate. But that opening is just about the same diameter as the dip tubes.
 
I'm kind of thinking this project is most likely getting a lot more expensive than a pump...

Do you still plan on using the hose water to cool most of the way?
 
The project certainly isn't for everybody (and maybe not me either) but I like to throw stuff on the wall and see what sticks. I paid $5 for each of my cornies and I always have one free. If I can get the damaged one to at least not gush like crazy, it's almost free.
 
conpewter, A little off topic but how does recircing cut DMS? Shouldn't DMS be boiled out long before cooling begins?
Bobby, when you were talking about adding a pump, did you mean a sub pump in the vessel to help push the water out and prevent over pressurizing?
 
Not all of the precursor to DMS is boiled out in a 60 minute boil (as far as I know) so when the wort is sitting there very hot but not boiling it is creating DMS but not getting boiled off. I've never had an issue with it, but this is what I've been led to believe. So if I recirc the wort back into the pot through the chiller I'll cool all of the wort below the danger temperature instead of letting some of it sit there producing DMS (theoretically).

Also I think some of what Bobby is getting at (and I hope he chimes in again) is that you could either do this method of using a container you can pressurize OR you could just go buy a pump and do that instead.

For me the question is between doing this again (with better control) or build a Hell On Earth type chiller. Both have their advantages, and fairly easy to use compared to switching input water etc.

Now that I have a pump I can heat sanitize all the tubing that the wort will go through all the way to the carboy now, so I hope that will help with a bit of an infection problem I've had in two batches (Just dumped a 5 gallon cornie a week ago, it has been getting progressively worse the last 3 months)
 
Yeah, I meant pond/sump pump in a NON pressurized vessel to simply pump out the icewater into the chiller. The point of this brainstorm thread is to use city pressure through a pressure-safe vessel with a mouth large enough to accept large quantities of ice to negate the need for a pump.
 
I guess it all depends on what you have lying around for free sometimes. I got my pump free, then $5 in fittings and I had a pump/recirc chiller. I have seen pumps for $20-$30
 
I have to admit that a lot of my motivation was simply to try something that hasn't been done, or at least not laid out in detail here recently. This is a method that could be used without any electrical source also if you're an IC user. It's moot for me since I use a March pump for wort movement though.
 
I guess it all depends on what you have lying around for free sometimes. I got my pump free, then $5 in fittings and I had a pump/recirc chiller. I have seen pumps for $20-$30

The idea I had, but haven't yet tried, is to just drop a small, sanitized, submersible pump into the middle of my immersion chiller with the outflow pointed through the coils at the side of the kettle. The goal would be to simulate the whirlpool effect of Jamil's chiller without mucking about with plumbing, added external pump cost and sanitation complexity.

What I haven't yet found is a cheap food rated pump. FWIW, I don't think the pump has to handle boiling temps because I could wait a couple of minutes for the high temperature delta between the wort and the chiller to knock down the temp to 140 or so before I drop in the pump. <edit>That said, a high temp pump would be nicer because of the risk of continued DMS production above 140.</edit>

Has anyone already tried this? Any opinions?

John
 
I suppose you could try and find a pump that would work like that, but wouldn't it just be simpler to stir the wort with a spoon?

It would be simpler; but slower, subject to greater contamination because of the open kettle and it is more work stirring for half an hour. Cooling the wort is really the only semi-frustrating thing left for me in brewing. It is the step I'd most like to improve.

John
 
I like the idea of using a corny. I have a 4 gal pinlock that I never had a real "use" for. Even though the ice may be gone before all the wort is chilled, it will help provide some additional chilling over using standard city water temps. I was kinda thinking of rigging up a "Y" hose fitting to split the water to the corny and as a bypass and then remix before entering my CFC. I could adjust the flow split to control water temp.
 
I posted this pic from a recent brewday but I thought I should put in here too. It worked pretty well, just needed a couple hose clamps. I put 2 bags of ice in the corny and went from the hose spigot to the corny out to the IC then out to the yard. I put a sprayer nozzle on the exit end of the hose to slow down the water flow and it was still coming out very cold. I was happy with the setup but it still doesn't cut down on water use enough for me.

I'll prob still go to a submersible pump in a bucket of ice water instead. Run the hose into the yard for about the first 10 minutes to dump the warmer water out instead of melting all the ice then switch to the bucket. I'll use the pump from the beginning though to pump the coldest water possible through the chiller the entire time.

brewing%20004.jpg
 
When the water going in is near 32f, you can really bring it down to a trickle to save water. Ideally, the output temp should be pretty close to the current temp of the wort if water savings is the concern. I'm going to try this on my next batch because I have a few cornies I don't really need for beer. I need a way to make a lot of ice. I don't have a lot of ice trays and it would be cool to be able to make slightly larger pieces, like tubes. I do have a bunch of plastic sour cream tubs and that's about as big as will fit in the corny opening.
 
Tapered mason jars? I never have enough ice from my ice maker in the fridge to cool as much as I'd like. maybe those or some other tapered shaped storage containers could be used. Hmmm, ice blocks have more longevity but ice cubes have more surface area. A mix of both should be nice.
 
I also have a bunch of those Glad disposable tupperware type things. Heck, even 16oz plastic beer cups would work out well I'd think. Then again, I could probably find a truckload of icecube trays on any given garage sale Saturday. You'll actually get more ice into the corny the smaller the chunks are.
 
I would think that the short "pint" containers that they put chinese food in would be a good size/surface area compromise. It'd be even better if you could somehow freeze them with a "donut hole" in the center to increase surface area, like some restaurant icemakers do.
 
You could try taking a piece of tupperware and glue or place some straws throughout to increase surface area. That would be a fairly good compromise. I don't have to worry about ice supply since where I work has a huge ice maker that barely even sees a dent in supply during everyday use.
 
There was still ice left in the keg after I got the wort down to 65. I used 2 bags of ice last time so I may be able to get away with emptying my ice maker once the day before into a cooler then the the full tray again right after I brew. I think that would be enough. At least that's my next try. Trying to cut the per batch cost every little bit and home frozen ice is one less thing to pay for. If it all melts early it'll just take longer but I'd like to think this will work. Not brewing til at earliest Sunday but it may be next weekend. I'll update afterward.
 
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