Inkbird STC-1000 failed?

[homebrewdude76]

Came home to a frozen Keezer.

Temp was set at 45F on Inkbird
Temp is currently 15F and freezer still running.

Inkbird is now in Heat mode, but freezer is still on.

So I guess the contact in the Inkbird failed.

Not even a year on the device...

Anyone else have this?

 

[MaryB]

When running inductive loads on these cheap PIDs it is best to use a solid state relay on the output to prevent burnt contacts! They are only rated for 10 amps and startup current on a motor(inductive load) can be much higher!

 

[inkbird]

Came home to a frozen Keezer.

Temp was set at 45F on Inkbird
Temp is currently 15F and freezer still running.

Inkbird is now in Heat mode, but freezer is still on.

So I guess the contact in the Inkbird failed.

Not even a year on the device...

Anyone else have this?

You can contact [email protected]

BTW, could you tell me how you wired it and set the value?

 

[barrooze]

This happened to my coworker this week. His Inkbird stayed off and his ferm chamber was at 85 instead of the programmed 70.

 

[MaryB]

The tiny relays in them will last forever if you use a solid state relay to switch the cooling compressor on/off, and if your heating load is more than 5 amps I would use one that side too. Instead of your cooling load going to the outlet it goes to the input side of this then the output side feeds the outlet neutral. Hot side of the outlet is tied to hot coming in as normal. http://www.mpja.com/25A-AC-Solid-State-Relay-AC-Control-Input/productinfo/33985+RL/

And order the matching heatsink, they do get hot http://www.mpja.com/Heatsink-For-Solid-State-Relay/productinfo/32434+HK/ and the heat transfer pad(or use CPU heat sink compound) http://www.mpja.com/Solid-State-Relay-Thermal-Mounting-Pad/productinfo/18500+IN/

 

[homebrewdude76]

I understand the SSR as an option. But it then defeats the purpose of a cheap controler. I should have just gotten a Johnson controller...

 

[MaryB]

SSR's are only $13 w/heatsink... so still a cheap controller with a bit of wiring. Heat element doesn't need one of it is less than 500 watts.

 

[homebrewdude76]

Still just adding on to something that failed while doing what it is advertised to do. If it cant handle the amp load, then it shouldnt be rated for it. It should state it needs a secondary relay.

 

[MaryB]

States it is rated for 10 amps, check your fridge specs for locked rotor current(or peak current) and you will find it is around 14-15 amps peak. Plus it is an inductive load, not resistive and that also causes issues with relays pitting and burning the contacts.