Imperial IPA Recipe critique?

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thepartyguy

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A recipe I have been working on, thinking of brewing it towards the end of the month; let me know what you all think.

Title: Big Boy $hit - Imperial IPA
Author: Dog Patch Brewing Company

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.066
Efficiency: 70%

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.085
Final Gravity: 1.024
ABV (standard): 7.99%

Mash @ 154 Degrees
Sparge @ 172 Degrees

FERMENTABLES:
13 lb - American 2-Row Pale
02 lb - Victory
01 lb - Flaked Corn
08 oz - Cystal 40
12 oz - Carapils

HOPS:
3.0 oz Columbus @ 90 Min
3/4 oz Centennial @ 45 Min
1.0 oz Simcoe @ 30 Min
1/2 oz Calypso @ 30 Min
12 oz Maple Syrup @ 30 Min
1/2 oz Ahtanum @ 5 Min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 5 Min
1/4 oz Centennial @ 0 Min

Dry Hop Schedule

When Moved to Secondary
1/2 oz Columbus
1/2 oz Centennial
1/2 oz Simcoe

1 week later
1/2 oz Calypso
1/2 oz Ahtanum
1/2 oz Columbus

YEAST:
SafALE US-05
Starter: Yes
Optimum Temp: 62 - 72 F
Primary Fermentation Temp: 65 F 10-15 Days
Secondary Fermentation Temp: 62 F 14-20 Days
 
My main thought is that 3 oz of Columbus as a 90 minute addition is going to give you like 150 IBUs. I might tone that down some with all the other hop additions you have. I know IIPAs are supposed to be big and hoppy, but that seems like it will just be completely overboard to get much out of the beer other than bitterness.
 
I'd mash lower to get better attenuation. To high of an FG on a IIPA seems counter to what a good drinkable IIPA should be. To that same end, I'd replace some 2 row with simple sugar. I'd aim for 5-10% of the grain bill be simple sugar.

I'd also simplify the dryhop. Why stagger it? There is info out there suggesting short dry hopping with pellets (3-5 days) will optimize your aroma. Rack to secondary if you must. But I'd just throw all your hops in at once for a few days into your primary when it's ready for the dry hop. Then cold crash (if you're able).
 
I have a number of things I think youd be wise to change if you want a nice, drinkable, yet pungently hoppy beer. What youve got right now its going to be a bitter mess of a barleywine

- ditch the victory. that is way too much for ANY beer, but it has no place in an IPA. "but then i wont have complex flavor cause it will have no malt character" wrong
- add in some sugar or dextrose. sub for some of the other malts. This will get you a more dry and crisp body.
- maple syrup? if you must add it, add it at flameout. You are going to get zero flavor from adding it that early. Even at flameout, a measly 12oz isnt going to be detectable in the final beer. All the aromatics will be lost
- mash MUCH lower. I mash my stouts around there. Your FG will be too high if you mash that high and youll have a cloyingly sweet beer. just thinking about taking a sip of a 1.024 FG IPA makes my stomach turn
- ditch the 45 and 30min additions. Just adjust your bittering addition to get the IBUs you want, and save you hops for the end of the boil. You wont taste anything from 30min and 45min
- turn your entire hop schedule on its head. Those tiny additions near the end of the boil are going to give this thing as much hop flavor and aroma as a brown ale
- ditch the secondary. the only thing it can do is either: 1) oxidize your beer, stripping the hop flavor you did manage to achieve, 2) expose your beer to bacteria
 
Alright, things to think about here, great advice, i'll switch some things up for sure; post a tweak of this sometime tomorrow, and brew this weekend,

Thanks
 
I don't understand the maple syrup. Is it intended to alter the flavor? If so, how?

Or is it intended to add sugar to the mix and thereby boost the ABV? If so, I think simply adding dextrose or sucrose would be a lot more efficient.
 
I don't make big beers but is there any point in having Carapils? I use that to bulk up my low OG beers. With a big grain bill I would think that you would have enough body / head retention without it.
 
Ok changed it up a bit: removed the victory, added Munich Malt, Removed the Maple Syrup, and changed the hop schedule slightly.

I thought that the Maple Syrup if added in the boil may give an earthy woody note, may have been wrong there; also every big ipa i have made (Loose cannon clone, Pliney the elder clone) has used dexterin or Carapils, so i figure why change it for this one?

Title: Big Boy $hit - Imperial IPA
Author: Dog Patch Brewing Company

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.066
Efficiency: 70%

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.073
Final Gravity: 1.017
ABV (standard): 7.39%

Mash @ 151 Degrees
Sparge @ 172 Degrees

FERMENTABLES:
13 lb - American 2-Row Pale
01 lb - Munich malt
01 lb - Flaked Corn
01 lb - Cystal 40
12 oz - Carapils

HOPS:
2.5 oz Columbus @ 90 Min
3/4 oz Centennial @ 45 Min
1.0 oz Simcoe @ 30 Min
1/2 oz Calypso @ 30 Min
1/2 oz Ahtanum @ 5 Min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 5 Min


Dry Hop Schedule

1 week after fermentation stops

1/2 oz Columbus
1/2 oz Centennial
1/2 oz Simcoe
1/2 oz Calypso
1/2 oz Ahtanum


YEAST:
SafALE US-05
Starter: Yes
Optimum Temp: 62 - 72 F
Primary Fermentation Temp: 65 F 10-15 Days
 
Personally I'd ditch the Crystal 40 and Flaked Corn. Carapils should offer you a little extra body, switch up to 10% of the malt bill with dextrose and you'll have a nice light and dry IIPA. Depends on what you're after really.

Also, that Centennial would be wasted at 45 mins I think. Up the Columbus slightly and put the Centennial later in the boil.

Just my two penneth.
 
evchenko said:
Personally I'd ditch the Crystal 40 and Flaked Corn. Carapils should offer you a little extra body, switch up to 10% of the malt bill with dextrose and you'll have a nice light and dry IIPA. Depends on what you're after really.

Also, that Centennial would be wasted at 45 mins I think. Up the Columbus slightly and put the Centennial later in the boil.

Just my two penneth.
Click to expand...

Something more like this?

Title: Big Boy $hit - Imperial IPA
Author: Dog Patch Brewing Company

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.066
Efficiency: 70%

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.072
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 7.33%

Mash @ 149 Degrees
Sparge @ 172 Degrees

FERMENTABLES:
08 lb - American 2-Row Pale
01 lb - Munich malt
3.25lb - Dextrose
12 oz - Carapils

HOPS:
3 oz Columbus @ 90 Min
1.0 oz Simcoe @ 15 Min
1/2 oz Calypso @ 15 Min
1/2 oz Ahtanum @ 5 Min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 5 Min
3/4 oz Centennial @ 5 Min


Dry Hop Schedule

1 week after fermentation stops

1/2 oz Columbus
1/2 oz Centennial
1/2 oz Simcoe
1/2 oz Calypso
1/2 oz Ahtanum
 
thepartyguy said:
Ok changed it up a bit: removed the victory, added Munich Malt, Removed the Maple Syrup, and changed the hop schedule slightly.

I thought that the Maple Syrup if added in the boil may give an earthy woody note, may have been wrong there; also every big ipa i have made (Loose cannon clone, Pliney the elder clone) has used dexterin or Carapils, so i figure why change it for this one?

Title: Big Boy $hit - Imperial IPA
Author: Dog Patch Brewing Company

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.066
Efficiency: 70%

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.073
Final Gravity: 1.017
ABV (standard): 7.39%

Mash @ 151 Degrees
Sparge @ 172 Degrees

FERMENTABLES:
13 lb - American 2-Row Pale
01 lb - Munich malt
01 lb - Flaked Corn
01 lb - Cystal 40
12 oz - Carapils

HOPS:
2.5 oz Columbus @ 90 Min
3/4 oz Centennial @ 45 Min
1.0 oz Simcoe @ 30 Min
1/2 oz Calypso @ 30 Min
1/2 oz Ahtanum @ 5 Min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 5 Min


Dry Hop Schedule

1 week after fermentation stops

1/2 oz Columbus
1/2 oz Centennial
1/2 oz Simcoe
1/2 oz Calypso
1/2 oz Ahtanum


YEAST:
SafALE US-05
Starter: Yes
Optimum Temp: 62 - 72 F
Primary Fermentation Temp: 65 F 10-15 Days
Click to expand...

Definitely ditch the flaked corn, not needed if you have carapils (target 5 % of grain bill). I would also lower your crystal amount. Crystal is only used for color if desired - 3 to 4% needed at most. Truthfully you can make a great DIPA without it. Also like others have stated add some corn sugar. This will help dry the beer out which will help you reach your target FG and also allowing your hops to really "pop" (target 5 to 10% of grain bill). Your mash temp looks OK - but I would not go higher than 151. If you miss your mash temp its better to miss it on the low side (148 to 150).

Here is a great write up from Vinnie who talks about how he started off with his homebrew version of Pliney the Elder. Some good guidance in this article when trying to formulate your own DIPA.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/6351/doubleIPA.pdf


Good Luck!
 
Thanks a lot, you've all been a big help here, the last version i posted is much more simple, and i think should make for a better more Drinkable IPA. still please let me know what you all think, but i think the addition of Dextrose and removing the crystal, mashing at 149, and adjusting the hop schedule should make this more in tune with what i was imaging.

Also thanks for the article, will give it a read!
 
3.25 lbs of sugar is way too much...

i'd do something like 85-90% 2 row, 5-10% munich, 5% dextrose. also i'd change that hop schedule to get about half you ibus from the bittering addition and the other half drom the last 5-10 minutes + a big hopstand for at least 30 min.
 
I think you'll be disappointed with the lack of hop flavor and intense bitterness with that hop schedule.
I'd drop the 90 minute addition to 2oz max, add the rest at 5, 0 and 1/2 hour steep at 170. Double the dry hop.
11 or 12lb 2row and 1lb table sugar at FO.
But that's just me
 
I agree with the other suggestions. The malt bill for an IPA/IIPA should be bone-simple. Mostly 2-row, with a touch of crystal for colour (eg., 4 oz C60), a little (4-6 oz)Carapils/Carafoam for body and head retention, and a pound of dextrose to dry it out.

Also, and this might just be the default for BeerSmith or whatever you used, but you're listing making a starter with US-05. Don't make a starter. Just rehydrate it according to the manufacturer's instructions and pitch. You might want to consider using 2 packets. Aerate the wort thoroughly.
 
thepartyguy said:
Thanks a lot, you've all been a big help here, the last version i posted is much more simple, and i think should make for a better more Drinkable IPA. still please let me know what you all think, but i think the addition of Dextrose and removing the crystal, mashing at 149, and adjusting the hop schedule should make this more in tune with what i was imaging.

Also thanks for the article, will give it a read!
Click to expand...

Best advice I can give is don't be afraid to over hop. Like Vinnie says with a smaller homebrew system your hop utilization will reach a point where it decreases dramatically due to the volume of your kettle limiting the surface contact your hops has with the wort. Putting Vinnie's recipe into Beersmith you fill find Beersmith calculates well over 200IBU's for his recipe, but if you were to truly measure the ACTUAL IBU's of that beer you would see you are only around 90IBU's.
 
Yeah wayyy too much dextrose. You want to be somewhere in the 5-10% range when it comes to dextrose in IPAs.

You also need more hops at the end of the boil as well as the dry hop. 2.5 oz in the dry hop is about what I use for my regular IPAs and I do 3 gallon batches.
 
For great hop flavor and aroma in IPA/IIPA, a good rule of thumb is 1 oz. of hops/gallon in a hopstand after flameout, and another 1 oz./gallon in dry hops. Adjust up or down to suit your own tastes, but going below 0.5 oz. hops/gallon for hopstands/dry hopping doesn't give the flavor and aroma impact I'm looking for in an IPA.

I have learned this through persoanl experience, as well as the great info here on HBT.
 
Alright i'm going with this one, will Be brewing this weekend, and will post pictures / Let you all know how it works out!

Title: Big Boy $hit - Imperial IPA
Author: Dog Patch Brewing Company

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.066
Efficiency: 70%

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.072
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 7.33%

Mash @ 149 Degrees
Sparge @ 172 Degrees

FERMENTABLES:
12 lb - American 2-Row Pale
01 lb - Munich malt
01 lb - Dextrose
12 oz - Carapils

HOPS:
2.0 oz Columbus @ 90 Min
1.0 oz Simcoe @ 15 Min
1/2 oz Calypso @ 15 Min
1.0 oz Columbus @ 15 Min
1/2 oz Ahtanum @ 5 Min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 5 Min
3/4 oz Centennial @ 5 Min


Dry Hop Schedule

1 week after fermentation stops

1/2 oz Columbus
1/2 oz Centennial
1/2 oz Simcoe
1/2 oz Calypso
1/2 oz Ahtanum
 
thepartyguy said:
Alright i'm going with this one, will Be brewing this weekend, and will post pictures / Let you all know how it works out!

Title: Big Boy $hit - Imperial IPA
Author: Dog Patch Brewing Company

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.066
Efficiency: 70%

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.072
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 7.33%

Mash @ 149 Degrees
Sparge @ 172 Degrees

FERMENTABLES:
12 lb - American 2-Row Pale
01 lb - Munich malt
01 lb - Dextrose
12 oz - Carapils

HOPS:
2.0 oz Columbus @ 90 Min
1.0 oz Simcoe @ 15 Min
1/2 oz Calypso @ 15 Min
1.0 oz Columbus @ 15 Min
1/2 oz Ahtanum @ 5 Min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 5 Min
3/4 oz Centennial @ 5 Min


Dry Hop Schedule

1 week after fermentation stops

1/2 oz Columbus
1/2 oz Centennial
1/2 oz Simcoe
1/2 oz Calypso
1/2 oz Ahtanum
Click to expand...

Last critique. SG seems a little low for an Imperial. I would bump that up higher. Also I would Go with 4 ounces in the secondary (pellets) for dry hop. Add 2 ounces when you rack over and wait 1 to 2 days - bump the fermenter ever so gently to get the hops to submerge. Then add your remaining 2 ounces and let the beer ride for 7 to 10 more days.
 
rwing7486 said:
Last critique. SG seems a little low for an Imperial. I would bump that up higher. Also I would Go with 4 ounces in the secondary (pellets) for dry hop. Add 2 ounces when you rack over and wait 1 to 2 days - bump the fermenter ever so gently to get the hops to submerge. Then add your remaining 2 ounces and let the beer ride for 7 to 10 more days.
Click to expand...

it's borderline, but if mashed at 149...ain't no way that's finishing at 1.016 with 05...more like 1.009-1.011 in my experience.
 
thepartyguy said:
Alright i'm going with this one, will Be brewing this weekend, and will post pictures / Let you all know how it works out!

Title: Big Boy $hit - Imperial IPA
Author: Dog Patch Brewing Company

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Imperial IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.066
Efficiency: 70%

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.072
Final Gravity: 1.016
ABV (standard): 7.33%

Mash @ 149 Degrees
Sparge @ 172 Degrees

FERMENTABLES:
12 lb - American 2-Row Pale
01 lb - Munich malt
01 lb - Dextrose
12 oz - Carapils

HOPS:
2.0 oz Columbus @ 90 Min
1.0 oz Simcoe @ 15 Min
1/2 oz Calypso @ 15 Min
1.0 oz Columbus @ 15 Min
1/2 oz Ahtanum @ 5 Min
1/2 oz Cascade @ 5 Min
3/4 oz Centennial @ 5 Min


Dry Hop Schedule

1 week after fermentation stops

1/2 oz Columbus
1/2 oz Centennial
1/2 oz Simcoe
1/2 oz Calypso
1/2 oz Ahtanum
Click to expand...

Go for it. If it's what you're going for that's awesome. If it's lacking according to your tastes adjust the next one
 
atom said:
it's borderline, but if mashed at 149...ain't no way that's finishing at 1.016 with 05...more like 1.009-1.011 in my experience.
Click to expand...

yeah i messed up the program is should be starting at 1.072 and finishing at 1.012, with an ABV of 7.9% it says.
 
thepartyguy said:
yeah i messed up the program is should be starting at 1.072 and finishing at 1.012, with an ABV of 7.9% it says.
Click to expand...

I was just pointing it out as I didn't know if you were wanting to brew "to syle" as defined by the BJCP which has an imperial SG being 1.075+. If you are happy with the recipe then go for it!
 
Personally, I wouldn't use five hops in the dry-hop. Pick three you really want to showcase and go with at least an ounce of each. I'd personally go with Columbus, Calypso, & Ahtanum.

:)
 
slym2none said:
Personally, I wouldn't use five hops in the dry-hop. Pick three you really want to showcase and go with at least an ounce of each. I'd personally go with Columbus, Calypso, & Ahtanum.

:)
Click to expand...

I'll make a game time decision on that one once i have all the hops infront of me and can smell them together. ... Durham NC, if you have any Rabbit Eye clone recipes from fullsteam or know of anything close i'd love to see it.
 
That's an expensive brew!

Personally (and I'm sure you've already committed to this recipe) I'd lower the carapils to 4oz. 12 oz is overkill. I'd consider adding white or red wheat. I'd also think about flameout hop additions and I like to focus on certain hops on the nose. You're throwing the kitchen sink at it (which will give you a hop bomb) but you won't get a specific aroma to cut with this recipe. It'll be all hops all the time. For example, I'll use 1 oz mosaic with 2 oz centennial for like an orange/blueberry combination and try to accentuate and compliment it. None of the hops you're putting in are contradictory, but you won't get to know Columbus or Ahtanum like you would if you focused the flavors.

Other advice is just to try it. We're all strangers with different taste buds and you'll never know if you like it until you try it.

:mug:
 
Since you haven't brewed this yet, I have one more suggestion that I'm surprised no one else caught. With a 90 min boil and all those hops, there is no way you're putting 5.5 gal in the fermentor with a starting boil volume of 7 gal. Reconsider your boil off rate and compute for hop absorption, then bump up your water requirements to hit a higher starting volume target.
 

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