Immersion Heater

[mgr_stl]

I tried brewing my first small batch a couple weeks ago, and one of the main problems I ran into was getting a rolling boil on my electric glass stovetop. I'd say I got more of a simmer.

So I'm looking to get an immersion heating element to supplement the electric range to get a stronger boil.

Looking for something in the $50 ballpark if possible.

 

[GilSwillBasementBrews]

Try a search for heatstick you'll probably find a few threads that can help you get what you're looking for.

 

[sfrisby]

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...PI-_-2170534&gclid=CK2aysrDw84CFQsuaQod3p8FsQ

 

[mgr_stl]

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...PI-_-2170534&gclid=CK2aysrDw84CFQsuaQod3p8FsQ

I've seen a similar product on Amazon, but people say it's not intended for use with food/drink products. Anyone use this (or something similar)? Any off flavors? Any issues?

 

[sfrisby]

I use it (bought it on amazon) to heat brewing water before I light the burner. Works great and saves money on propane.

 

[laredo7mm]

I use it (bought it on amazon) to heat brewing water before I light the burner. Works great and saves money on propane.

It says that it:

1. Water can be heated towards boiling, depending on the bucket's volume and insulation
2. Heater is thermostatically controlled with over-temperature protection
3. Will heat the water to over 180 degrees F

I would think that once the wort gets close to boiling then the immersion heater will turn itself off and the OP would be left in the same situation as he was without the heater.

 

[sfrisby]

I use it for heating mash and sparge water. Never tried to get to a boil, but it has gotten to about 195* before I need the water.

If you don't care for my idea, feel free to offer an additional solution.

 

[laredo7mm]

I use it for heating mash and sparge water. Never tried to get to a boil, but it has gotten to about 195* before I need the water.

If you don't care for my idea, feel free to offer an additional solution.

Here is what the OP said:

I tried brewing my first small batch a couple weeks ago, and one of the main problems I ran into was getting a rolling boil on my electric glass stovetop. I'd say I got more of a simmer.

Your solution was to have him buy an immersion heater that will shut off before it gets to a boil. My reply was to stop the OP from wasting money on your solution since it won't solve his problem.

Other than saving him money by not buying your solution, I don't have any others for under $50, unless the OP wants to build his own, but I think that was already suggested.

 

[LBussy]

This is the lowest price option that does not rely on half-@$$ing the solution (that I know of):

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

(2 in stock when link posted)

There are complete DIY versions out there, this for instance:

https://www.love2brew.com/Articles.asp?ID=579

If you look at that DIY vs the Brewhardware piece, I think you will quickly see which one is the better idea.

 

[augiedoggy]

Here is what the OP said:



Your solution was to have him buy an immersion heater that will shut off before it gets to a boil. My reply was to stop the OP from wasting money on your solution since it won't solve his problem.

Other than saving him money by not buying your solution, I don't have any others for under $50, unless the OP wants to build his own, but I think that was already suggested.

does it say that it shuts off? If it does I missed it. Its actually states that it has protection built in to shut off if the element overheats so it doesnt damage the unit.
My understanding is its just not powerful enough to bring a couple gallons or more to an actual boil but it should certainly help add additional heat.
The fact that someone here actually uses it without issues should count for something here as well no?

Due to the high watt density I dont think this element is a great idea unless you dont care about the off flavors it can produce from scorching. Its intended for water only for this reason.

 

[laredo7mm]

This is the lowest price option that does not rely on half-@$$ing the solution (that I know of):

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm....

+1 to the hotrod. That is what I use, and it is great. But by the time you add the element, cable, and plug it gets spendy. Well worth it in my book. I started with a 2000W and then upgraded it to a 5500W with a DSPR1 controller so I don't have use use my natty gas stove at all.

 

[laredo7mm]

does it say that it shuts off? If it does I missed it. Its actually states that it has protection built in to shut off if the element overheats so it doesnt damage the unit.
My understanding is its just not powerful enough to bring a couple gallons or more to an actual boil but it should certainly help add additional heat.
The fact that someone here actually uses it without issues should count for something here as well no?

Due to the high watt density I dont think this element is a great idea unless you dont care about the off flavors it can produce from scorching. Its intended for water only for this reason.

Well, he uses for heating mash and sparge water, not boiling. I don't know what temperature it shuts off at. The description says it will heat the water to "over 180 degrees F." There was a question on Amazon and someone said it turned off at 180°. Others say 180 to 185. Others say it will boil and others say it won't.

Now, if it does shut itself off at 180 to 200, then all it is going to do is help the OP get his water up to the shut off point quicker and then do nothing after that. $40 is an expensive experiment when the OP doesn't want to spend more than $50.

I would rather not experiment and the take the $40 + $50 and set myself up with a hotrod from BrewHardware.

 

[augiedoggy]

If money really is a concern the best option is to just drill a hole in the kettle and mount the element.. thats what I did to all my kettles.. its much cheaper to brew with electric in ny where I live than gas or propane to to immersion heaters being 99% efficient.

The hod rod offers more flexibility because you can move it from kettle to kettle but it comes at a cost and limits your element choices due to size and placement.

All that said I have seen a lot of people mention they use the bucket heaters without problems so.... maybe search "bucket heater" or "heat stick" here and read up on them? again as I mentioned above I dont believe these are a good choice for boiling wort either.

 

[laredo7mm]

I looked at drilling and mounting the element to my BK but as you mentioned, the hot rod is more flexible. Plus by the time you add your weld less or welded bulkhead fitting and an enclosure, you are at about he price of the hot rod.

The hotrod was fine with my 2000W element and I could fit it in my 10 gallon cooler mash tun to heat my strike water. When I upgraded to a 5500W element I had to bend it quite a bit to get it to fit the cooler. I went slow and measured the resistance and I progressed. It all worked out, but I don't know if I would recommend that process to anyone.

 

[augiedoggy]

I looked at drilling and mounting the element to my BK but as you mentioned, the hot rod is more flexible. Plus by the time you add your weld less or welded bulkhead fitting and an enclosure, you are at about he price of the hot rod.

The hotrod was fine with my 2000W element and I could fit it in my 10 gallon cooler mash tun to heat my strike water. When I upgraded to a 5500W element I had to bend it quite a bit to get it to fit the cooler. I went slow and measured the resistance and I progressed. It all worked out, but I don't know if I would recommend that process to anyone.

Fair enough,
I just used an oring and nut for mounting... later for bling factor I upgraded my epoxy filled pvc element wiring enclosure to bobby Ms $30 serviceable ones.

 

[sfrisby]

Some people on the Internet just have to find fault with everything and feel they have to be right. Whatever.

OP-buy it from Amazon, try it out on your stove. It will help you reach a boil, or it won't. If it doesn't, return it. Amazon makes it very easy to go that.

Or choose another solution. Whatever is right for you. Best of luck and happy brewing.

 

[55x11]

I use it for heating mash and sparge water. Never tried to get to a boil, but it has gotten to about 195* before I need the water.

If you don't care for my idea, feel free to offer an additional solution.

I have a 1,000 Watt element like this one:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/electric-bucket-heater-1000w.html

(I got it on sale for $40).

I only used it to assist my propane heater in heating water for mashing, never used it with wort - I seem to recall it could scorch the wort and may not be recommended for these purposes. Cleaning may be a problem too if you use it on wort.

There are of course higher power solutions like that as well, but scorching issues are only going to get worse, presumably.

Finally, I like all sort of DYI projects (my keggerator, my immersion cooler, etc. - all DYI) - but I would stay away from DYI water heaters. Electricity plus water don't mix - and I just wouldn't trust myself with insulating the wires properly.

 

[augiedoggy]

Some people on the Internet just have to find fault with everything and feel they have to be right. Whatever.

OP-buy it from Amazon, try it out on your stove. It will help you reach a boil, or it won't. If it doesn't, return it. Amazon makes it very easy to go that.

Or choose another solution. Whatever is right for you. Best of luck and happy brewing.

The possible issue with that is the manufactuer clearly states its only good for water because the watt density is soo high that wort will likely scorch and make a nasty mess of the element quickly. When you try to "send it back" for not doing what its not supposed to do, The seller might give you a hard time.

I'm not mentioning this to be argumentative or "always be right" but rather to prevent people from learning from the same mistakes I did the hard way. Depending on the actual watt density of the element surface (and the surface area looks to be very small on this unit which would make the watt density high) you can get a sugar/protien buildup which burns onto the surface of the element which could cause a burnt off flavor as well as be a ***** to clean from that element due to the guard.
Some people have good luck with normal high density water heating elements when used with care and one is aware of the limitations but this isnt a water heating element and I dont know what the actual watts per square inch of this element or where the heated portion of the element ends in the picture. IF its just the portion of the element under the heat guard that heats up the watt density would be very high, Higher than a standard 1500w water heater element.
I had to dump 15 gallons of beer when I scorched it with a little 800w 12" rims cartridge element.

 

[laredo7mm]

Some people on the Internet just have to find fault with everything and feel they have to be right. Whatever...

Its not about being right or wrong. Your suggestion probably isn't the best for wort boiling. Should I not express my opinion about your suggestion since you might get offended? I would do that in person or on the internet, along with admitting when I am wrong.

What I wouldn't do, is buy a product that is not meant for my application, just to try it, and then when it doesn't work, return it. That is a different discussion, but to each their own.

 

[sfrisby]

I'm not offended. I have no dog in this hunt. Let's get back to finding the OP a solution for his situation.

Edit: And nobody was suggesting returning anything that you damaged yourself.

 

[jmos]

I have one of these I've been using for at least my last 15 batches. I brew 5gal batches on a fairly high power kitchen stove (~20K BTU), but it still takes a while to heat the strike water and to get the wort to a boil. Moving outside to propane isn't really an option for me and I don't have a garage.

Anyway, the bucket heater cut my time in half (~40 min to ~20) in heating both strike water and heating the wort to a boil.

Yes, I use it in wort. The element is still perfectly clean. Clean like the day I got it. No discoloration or baked on residue. The only occasional issue is hop debris can be a little annoying to remove.

As soon as I hit a boil I pull it and use my kitchen sink sprayer to spray it off. I've never had any baked on or scorched wort. Could it possibly be darkening my wort a tad? Maybe, but I've not noticed it.

It does seem to heat all the way to boil, but I can't be positive; it may shut down a bit lower. I've never used it by itself, only as supplemental heat.

One warning, police your cord; I had mine get too close to the boil kettle and start to melt the insulation. Had to do some repairs with electrical tape. I'm more careful now.

 

[mgr_stl]

jmos, that's great, first-hand info. Thanks!

 

[augiedoggy]

I have one of these I've been using for at least my last 15 batches. I brew 5gal batches on a fairly high power kitchen stove (~20K BTU), but it still takes a while to heat the strike water and to get the wort to a boil. Moving outside to propane isn't really an option for me and I don't have a garage.

Anyway, the bucket heater cut my time in half (~40 min to ~20) in heating both strike water and heating the wort to a boil.

Yes, I use it in wort. The element is still perfectly clean. Clean like the day I got it. No discoloration or baked on residue. The only occasional issue is hop debris can be a little annoying to remove.

As soon as I hit a boil I pull it and use my kitchen sink sprayer to spray it off. I've never had any baked on or scorched wort. Could it possibly be darkening my wort a tad? Maybe, but I've not noticed it.

It does seem to heat all the way to boil, but I can't be positive; it may shut down a bit lower. I've never used it by itself, only as supplemental heat.

One warning, police your cord; I had mine get too close to the boil kettle and start to melt the insulation. Had to do some repairs with electrical tape. I'm more careful now.

Good info.. question, Does the heated part element extend beyond what's under the guard? If it's not scorching to the element it's unlikely that it's darkening your wort.

 

[jmos]

It appears to me that the element gets hot all the way to the plastic end, but I've never tested it. If you're really interested I can check it next time I brew.

It happens that the unit is long enough to sit on the bottom of my BK and the plastic end is right at the rim, so it never get's wet, but keeps the element at the top from touching the BK. The metal cage on the business end keeps the element from touching the BK.

The area I mentioned that is slightly hard to clean is the area at the air/wort interface; the material (hops, break, wort...) cooks on a tiny bit, but not badly at all. A light touch with a kitchen scrubbie is all I've ever needed to clean it.