Islandboy85
Well-Known Member
As I look back a few years I wish I had designed my brewery differently. My original design has a sightglass on each vessel, 1-2 FIP unions TIG welded into the side of the keg for al, plumbing, stainless full port 2 piece ball valves, and camlocks. My dip tubes are 1/2 stainless tube held by compression fittings on the inside of the vessels. It's all stored on a mobile monstrosity pushcart from Harbour Crap.
Things I'd do differently:
1. To start off with, let's just say if you're going with welding (triclamp or threaded) get a GOOD welder.
2. Go straight to triclamp fittings. While the camlocks are an excellent choice, they are just harder to keep clean. In my opinion the tri lamps aren't much more cost than the camlocks are. My biggest issue with any of my plumbing is that any threaded fitting you have can and WILL hold crap. It has but me before, and cost me a batch or two here and there.
Triclamp it things can be so easily modified once you have the ferrules welded into your kegs. It's totally modular, and great for experimenting.
3. Bottom drain mash tun, and HLT. Soooo much easier and more efficient than a dip tube. Obviously this won't work with a direct fire mash system, but I also would like to build a RIMS tube onto the dude of my mash tun.
4. Some people here brew with a single pump. To save having to fiddle with piping hot triclamp fittings, use a 3-way valve instead. It's less plumbing that two standard ball valves as well.
5. As soon as I'm no longer in an apartment, I'll convert to electric. It's so much cheaper than propane, more efficient, and no CO gas.
6. A smaller hole in my BK. My boil off rate is too high. I have a 12 1/2" hole in the kettle.
7. Have a cheap fountain pump in a 5 gallon bucket for CIP, especially if using a plate or a CFC. No amount of shiny newfangled gadgetry and automation will make your beer better if your system is filthy. This will help save time during cleanup too.
8. A permanent brewing location/stand. I don't care if it's metal or wood. I would brew more often, but having to drag everything out of my garage, unload the cart, brew, cleanup, let it all dry out, load it all back up, and put it all away just takes too much time. Having it permanent would be great.
9. Minimalist the number of 90 degree fittings. It really adds a lot of resistance in the system. This is especially important if you are whirl pooling since the Chugger and March pumps really aren't that powerful. It's also harder to keep clean.
10. Not every vessel needs a sight glass. It's extra cost for sure. The HLT certainly can go without one. It is handy on the MLT during fly sparging, but be careful where you place it. I've had it read way low because it was being siphoned somehow through the grain bed bad dip tube. For your HLT and BK, it's easy enough to mark the keg, a spoon, or a stick for checking the liquid levels.
11. Keep it simple. The more complex I made my plumbing, the more issues I ran I to. Don't get me wrong, I want to automate heat up of my strike and sparge water (wow, the time savings there!!!), just make sure there is a good reason for everything you do. Research other breweries, and compare to yours. If no one else is doing it, ask yourself why before you build it, then decide if it's still worth it.
I hope some of what I've said may ge helpful to somebody. Remember, my way and my dreams aren't the only way, so take if for whet if is. Do lots of research before you build, or you'll wind up like me trying to sell your existing brewery to rebuild it once again. Good luck to all those who are new to brewing, or just designing their breweries. Feel free to discus anything I've missed, or give your own take on what you've discovered throughout your time in our beloved hobby.
Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
Things I'd do differently:
1. To start off with, let's just say if you're going with welding (triclamp or threaded) get a GOOD welder.
2. Go straight to triclamp fittings. While the camlocks are an excellent choice, they are just harder to keep clean. In my opinion the tri lamps aren't much more cost than the camlocks are. My biggest issue with any of my plumbing is that any threaded fitting you have can and WILL hold crap. It has but me before, and cost me a batch or two here and there.
Triclamp it things can be so easily modified once you have the ferrules welded into your kegs. It's totally modular, and great for experimenting.
3. Bottom drain mash tun, and HLT. Soooo much easier and more efficient than a dip tube. Obviously this won't work with a direct fire mash system, but I also would like to build a RIMS tube onto the dude of my mash tun.
4. Some people here brew with a single pump. To save having to fiddle with piping hot triclamp fittings, use a 3-way valve instead. It's less plumbing that two standard ball valves as well.
5. As soon as I'm no longer in an apartment, I'll convert to electric. It's so much cheaper than propane, more efficient, and no CO gas.
6. A smaller hole in my BK. My boil off rate is too high. I have a 12 1/2" hole in the kettle.
7. Have a cheap fountain pump in a 5 gallon bucket for CIP, especially if using a plate or a CFC. No amount of shiny newfangled gadgetry and automation will make your beer better if your system is filthy. This will help save time during cleanup too.
8. A permanent brewing location/stand. I don't care if it's metal or wood. I would brew more often, but having to drag everything out of my garage, unload the cart, brew, cleanup, let it all dry out, load it all back up, and put it all away just takes too much time. Having it permanent would be great.
9. Minimalist the number of 90 degree fittings. It really adds a lot of resistance in the system. This is especially important if you are whirl pooling since the Chugger and March pumps really aren't that powerful. It's also harder to keep clean.
10. Not every vessel needs a sight glass. It's extra cost for sure. The HLT certainly can go without one. It is handy on the MLT during fly sparging, but be careful where you place it. I've had it read way low because it was being siphoned somehow through the grain bed bad dip tube. For your HLT and BK, it's easy enough to mark the keg, a spoon, or a stick for checking the liquid levels.
11. Keep it simple. The more complex I made my plumbing, the more issues I ran I to. Don't get me wrong, I want to automate heat up of my strike and sparge water (wow, the time savings there!!!), just make sure there is a good reason for everything you do. Research other breweries, and compare to yours. If no one else is doing it, ask yourself why before you build it, then decide if it's still worth it.
I hope some of what I've said may ge helpful to somebody. Remember, my way and my dreams aren't the only way, so take if for whet if is. Do lots of research before you build, or you'll wind up like me trying to sell your existing brewery to rebuild it once again. Good luck to all those who are new to brewing, or just designing their breweries. Feel free to discus anything I've missed, or give your own take on what you've discovered throughout your time in our beloved hobby.
Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
