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If a full boil is possible, DO IT!!

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Actually, the curve shapes are very different between various people's formulas.

I was thinking of the gravity/%utilization,
not time/%utilization, but in either case what I
meant was that he curves had the same general
result: higher gravity means less utilization or
more time means more utilization and they all
flatten out with time. In fact, in the podcast
at Basic Brewing radio, both the Tinseth
and Rager methods were equally right/wrong
overall.

Ray
 
First time I did an extract full boil, I did not reduce my hop bill, and it was wayyyy more bitter than partial boil. The lower gravity of a full boil increases the extraction efficiency of the hop acids. Had to let that one sit in a keg for a really long time before it was drinkable - and I love hoppy beers.

I've always done full boils and I have never reduced my hops. I guess I got really lucky! Then again, I really like bitter/hoppy beer!!
 
I brew 2.3 gallon batches stovetop usually two at a time. Normally I split
up the Coopers HME cans between 1-3 lbs depending on what I am trying to
achieve plus DME and steeping grains. Anyway my first few batches were
twangy/ off flavors ect.. So I started bringing the full volume to a boil rather
than topping off. I dont boil the water for long, just add all ingredients late
and bring back to a boil and kill the heat and let sit for 5 - 10 minutes.
Fifteen straight batches with no twang or off flavors. I think
tap, well or even spring water could have low levels of nasties that could
sour or multiply sitting in a sweet batch of wort. Thats my theory anyway.
Maybe I'm just lucky, I dont know?
 
I always assumed that the full boil was just for city folk who have to deal with tap water that tastes like a tin can of chlorine soda.

My icey cold well water takes a 3 gallon boil to pitching temperature as quick as it comes out of the tap. Would the benefits of quick chilling not surpass the benefits of the water purification?
 
I have only been brewing for 6 months so I dont know how critical it is
that the water be completely free of "whatever" But we are all pretty
thorough with sanitation in every other step. But yet not many want to
think about the water being sanitized or sterile. I have seen spring water
on shelves with a green algae tinge to them and I can't swear Rambo's
not swatting rats in the bottom of my well ;-) so I boil and they turn out
fine. All grain brewers do full boils and not many of them complain about
problems that extract brewers do. JMHO of course
You know even city/tap water could be nasty too, ever saw into an old
intake line and looked at all the gunk in there? I mean it's fine for us to
drink but there could be something in there that could compete and stress
the yeasts even wild yeast maybe?
 
After reading this thread, I was moved to get my friends big boiling pot and do a full boil with my NB Saison kit. It was also nice to test my newly constructed wort chiller. I combined boiling water from different pots to get the large pot to boil; even then my crappy stove didn't get a great boil going.

My chiller worked okay, reasonable cold break, but next time I will have to augment my setup with some ice I think. Its been about 9 hours since I pitched my starter, lets see how this thing turns out! The first striking aspect of the brew was the color. It was a beautiful coppery orange. I was blown away. Thanks for getting me to do this!
 
(hoo boy, fingers crossed that somebody actually answers my question on this ancient but enlightening thread...)

What do you mean by "clean ice cubes"? I'm imagining boiling water, sanitizing the ice cube tray, and freezing it in there... but even then it would make me nervous. Or am I overthinking it?
 
i would still use an immersion chiller, or any type of chiller compared to ice cubes. But if you can get away with it, do it. On the full boil subject, i have began to realize the bigger the boil, the better the beer. I will continue full boils from now on, just my two cents.
 
I just got myself set up for full boils (35 qt SS pot from overstock and a chiller from NB). Already had a burner from a turkey fryer. After listening to those brewing network dudes discussing prioritizing purchases, I decided going full boil was the first step. JZ is a big advocate of full over partial boil and making that move before partial mash or full grain. Temp control would be next, but so far I've been able to use the ambient house temps (living in New England) and a large tub with some water to sit the bucket in.

Did my 1st full boil Monday. All extract hefe. Red immersion chiller got the wort down to the mid 70s pretty damn fast. Started with 6.5g, boiled off about 1 g., transferred 5g, leaving the hop sediment and any muck in the pot.

I like the fact that all my water is being boiled in a full. Last batch I made (a sierra clone) I did partial boil, but took the time the night before to boil all the water I would be topping off with. More work. Sure, many people don't boil the top-off water and get away with it, but... so boil all at one time, better hop utilization, and I don't stink up the house doing partial boils on the stove and irritating my wife and kids. :)
 
after 16 partial boils my 1st and 2nd full boils are fermenting nicely now. very excited.
 
sampled the mild ale (full boil) only a week and half in primary. gunna 3 week primary then bottle, sample amazing. side by side with a bottle of partial boilnfrom 3 months ago. amazing difference already. cany wait 2 carb it and condition it.


AG and kegging by next spring is the goal.
 
so, if I read this right, I can improve my brews if I increase the boil capacity. I currently brew 2.5 gallons, will I have to adjust the hop quantity if I increase that to 3 gallons? Will I see that much differerence if I increase 1/2 gallon? I don't have the software do make the calc's. The software is greek to me!
NOOB here so go easy :)

Honestly, I wouldn't waste my time with it. The only
reason you do full boils with all grain brewing is because
you have to.

Ray
 
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