Huston, we have a problem: looks like I'm brewing a barleywine

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Gonjeshk

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td;lr: My latest brew has an accidental OG of 1.120, and I need to make sure I'm not missing something, having never tried brewing a beer this big. Any help is appreciated.

Long version: I'm relatively new to homebrewing, having only started a year and a half ago. Up until now, I've been using kits and modifying them to my taste. But for my next batch, I wanted to try something a little more original, so I looked up a recipe for an Oktoberfest-style ale, that I modified a little. In short it's as follows:

1 pound Vienna malt
1 pound Munich malt
11 pounds LME

Rather than the more traditional hops, I used Citra, .5 oz at 20mins into the boil, then 1.5 oz at 40 mins. I was also planning on dryhopping with another .5 oz a week before bottling.

Because I had planned to go a little bigger with this beer, I went with WLP575 for my yeast with a 24 hour starter.

The recipe was supposed to yield an OG of ~1.080 or so for a ABV if around 7%, but I guess the LME that was used in the recipe was less concentrated than what I picked up. I should have done the math myself beforehand, but long story short, when I took my gravity reading, it was 1.120. At least I am happy that fermentation has started quickly: it was bubbling within 4 hours and a krausen had formed within 6. I have a blow-off tube running into a growler a third filled with a starsan solution, and that is sitting in my bottling bucket to catch the inevitable overflow.

For my next steps, I'm planning to add another vial of yeast I was thinking a WLP099 to carry the fermentation through to around 1.030 or so. But other than that, I'm not sure what I ought to do differently from any of my previous brews. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance.
 
Obviously it's not going to be very much like an oktoberfest - but it won't be much like a barleywine either, with such a small amount of hops. It is going to be balanced sweet and malty - more in the direction of a dopplebock - but even for malty styles with little bitterness this is going to be out of balance. Dry hopping isn't going help in that case.

I'd suggest you leave it alone and see how it tastes when done fermenting. It will be malty and sweet and strong, but if it seems promising at that point just keep it. You'll probably need to let it age a bit, but it could still be very nice.

On the other hand, if it seems flabby and cloying your best bet is to mix it with another beer that has lots of bitterness. Possibly you could design that second beer for exactly this purpose.

Hope it goes well!
 
Did you a partial boil with topp off water. If so your reading was just because the top off water was not fully mixed in. With extract it is pretty hard to miss the OG unless your water volumes are way off. So the estimate of 1.080 something is about right. There is no way 11 lbs of LME will get you to 1.120.
 
no where in your post do you mention volume. I have a hard time buying that 11LBS DME got those numbers too unless you have a fairly low volume.
 
Yep, either your batch was too small (or you read before topping off), or your wort and top off water were not mixed.

If that was a full boil (you don't specify), then either you boiled off too much (by a fairly wide margin), or there's a problem with the reading itself (hydrometer not floating properly, or simply a bad hydrometer, even a temp error wouldn't explain this one).

With those fermentables, you're looking at a ~3.5 gallon batch to hit that gravity.

Also your yeast choice will bring you into the Belgian Strong category. Given the grain bill, not too far out of the Tripel range, but probably won't end up dry enough without sugar in there.

Also, WLP099 is a monster that will eat the thing incredibly dry. It won't stop at 1.030. It'll probably stop in the mid single digits. I had a (legit) 1.110 Barleywine where my primary yeast crapped out high (tolerance), and added that, and it sucked all the body out of the beer, finishing a dry harsh boozy thin 1.004. I will never use it again, and won't recommend it to anyone else.
 
So to answer a few questions:

It is a full 5 gallon batch, I boiled 3.5 gallons, then topped it off with 1.5 gallons of distilled water in the primary. So that said, while the water did splash around in the wort pretty well. It may not have mixed as well as it should. Before trying anything else, I'm going to give the wort a gentle stir and try taking the reading again. It won't be accurate, but if it's dropped down below 1.080, I'll know that was the issue.
 
So to answer a few questions:

It is a full 5 gallon batch, I boiled 3.5 gallons, then topped it off with 1.5 gallons of distilled water in the primary. So that said, while the water did splash around in the wort pretty well. It may not have mixed as well as it should. Before trying anything else, I'm going to give the wort a gentle stir and try taking the reading again. It won't be accurate, but if it's dropped down below 1.080, I'll know that was the issue.

Re-measuring isn't going to tell you anything, since fermentation began already. You also do NOT want to open and stir your now-fermenting beer, to avoid oxidation and infection.

You can be sure that the LME did NOT give you a true 5 gallons of 1.120 wort. It just didn't. Measurement error is the problem, measuring wort that was not mixed well enough to be uniform, or measuring your volume wrong so you ended up with a lot less than 5 gallons. Most likely, it wasn't mixed well enough, so your actual gravity is probably where your target is.
 
Fair enough, I'll follow the golden rule of brewing and just not touch it and let it do its thing. So lesson learned, I need to make sure my wort is properly stirred before pitching. Might be time to invest in an aerator.
 
The key point to take away is you need to be stirring before taking your hydro sample otherwise you are getting skewed results.

How are you aerating your wort?
 
So to answer a few questions:

It is a full 5 gallon batch, I boiled 3.5 gallons, then topped it off with 1.5 gallons of distilled water in the primary. So that said, while the water did splash around in the wort pretty well. It may not have mixed as well as it should. Before trying anything else, I'm going to give the wort a gentle stir and try taking the reading again. It won't be accurate, but if it's dropped down below 1.080, I'll know that was the issue.

Does that account for water loss during boiling and grain absorption? That could account for a gallon, leaving you with only 4 gallons.

At this point could he wait til after fermentation, then top off with a gallon or so of sanitized water?
 
The key point to take away is you need to be stirring before taking your hydro sample otherwise you are getting skewed results.

How are you aerating your wort?

Very basically, just stiring it up with a spoon, but this time looks like I didn't whip it up quite enough. After pouring the water in to fill it up to the full 5 gallons it was looking very frothy, so I just gave it a quick stir before pitching. Now I'm thinking it may be a good time to look into aerating options.
 
Does that account for water loss during boiling and grain absorption? That could account for a gallon, leaving you with only 4 gallons.

Yes, by the end of the boil I had around 3.5 gallons in the kettle, so when I transferred it to the primary, I topped it up with water to a full 5 gallons.

At this point could he wait til after fermentation, then top off with a gallon or so of sanitized water?

I'm curious about this as well. I have added a small amount of water just before bottling in the past to replace some lost volume with no ill effect (just have to make sure the water is sanitized/distilled). But I wonder how that would affect the taste of the beer to add another ~40% of your original brew volume after the fact.
 
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