• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Huge Stout: Split Mash or Sparge?

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Choose my own adventure:

  • Two full-volume mashes in sequence, combine in kettle

    Votes: 3 25.0%
  • Two full-volume mashes concurrently, combine in kettle

    Votes: 2 16.7%
  • One partial-volume mash, sparged

    Votes: 7 58.3%

  • Total voters
    12
Apologies for OT but some question regarding reiterated mash like @deadwolfbones did. What about water treatment for such a method? Wouldn't pH be way off when doing the second mash?
 
Apologies for OT but some question regarding reiterated mash like @deadwolfbones did. What about water treatment for such a method? Wouldn't pH be way off when doing the second mash?

According to Chris Colby's article, if you do the same calcium additions in the second mash that you did in the first mash you'll end up in the right ballpark. I did that and got good conversion/attenuation.
 
Stout went into the barrel last night. Despite having more than 6 gallons going into the fermenter, I only managed to fill the barrel like 90% of the way before I ran into a soup of yeast and trub. Oh well, talked to a pro brewer friend and he said to just let it ride.
 
Longer and colder lol

73 hours is not that long as it takes 24-36 to lower the temp that far...:unless you mean 72 hours started at 35 degrees.

I’m talking a week, preferably two.

What’s the hurry, thought this was an aging project?

Nice work regardless
 
Yeah, I started the cold crash proper at 44F. Next time I'll do colder and longer, though. :)
 
If I'm brewing a big stout, that means a longer boil and higher pre-boil volume. Doing a mash/sparge with that higher volume yields almost the exact same efficiency as a regular beer which is a double bonus: no loss in efficiency and no need to change my settings in Brewer's Friend to account for a change in efficiency.

This is a no-brainer for me and my MIAB setup.
 
If I'm brewing a big stout, that means a longer boil and higher pre-boil volume. Doing a mash/sparge with that higher volume yields almost the exact same efficiency as a regular beer which is a double bonus: no loss in efficiency and no need to change my settings in Brewer's Friend to account for a change in efficiency.

This is a no-brainer for me and my MIAB setup.
I think you are being overly optimistic about getting "almost the exact same efficiency as a regular beer" with a slight (1 - 2 gal) increase in pre-boil volume. If you double your grain bill, you have to double your pre-boil volume to get the same efficiency (if the rest of you lauter process remains the same.) You can run some scenarios yourself using the spread sheet here, to get a feel for how things work.

Brew on :mug:
 
I think you are being overly optimistic about getting "almost the exact same efficiency as a regular beer" with a slight (1 - 2 gal) increase in pre-boil volume. If you double your grain bill, you have to double your pre-boil volume to get the same efficiency (if the rest of you lauter process remains the same.) You can run some scenarios yourself using the spread sheet here, to get a feel for how things work.

Brew on :mug:

You'd think so, but I got about 72% brewhouse normally and got 71% brewhouse with a 1.128OG beer.
 
You'd think so, but I got about 72% brewhouse normally and got 71% brewhouse with a 1.128OG beer.
I would bet that if we could look at all the detailed information for the two cases, we could identify what is different in the two processes, in addition to the increase in grain bill.

Brew on :mug:
 
Back
Top