How much of a leak is bearable on a MLT?

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

Moving to All Grain brewing from extract and the only thing stopping me is leaks. I have attempted to convert a 10 gallon round cooler from Home Depot to a MLT but am having some leak issues. I purchased a conversion kit and followed all instructions but can't seem to stop the leak. I'm at the point where i'm thinking about just brewing with a slow leak in my MLT. My question is... How much will that affect my brewing? Obviously would love to stop the leak but don't want it to stop me from brewing. Is a slow leak OK in the MLT? I think over the course of the mash/sparge I would lose a few cups. Any suggestions for fool proof leak solutions for the 10 gal round gott cooler?
Also having some leak issues with ball valve on a keggle but am expecting some parts from mcmaster in the next few days which should hopefully fix that.

Cheers
(excited to get started brewing all-grain)

 

[SKMO]

No reason to live with much of a leak, try getting some thicker o-rings or silicon washers, whatever you are using. Make sure the o-rings aren't getting bunched up as you tighten, wet them first as a lube. You really want the inside washer/o-ring to seal, otherwise you will get wort between the inner and outer walls in the insulation which will get pretty funky over time.

A cup or two of lost wort isn't going to make or break a brew session, but it's messy and there's no reason you can't get it figured out.

 

[the_bird]

Remember that leaks sometimes come from cranking your pieces together TOO tightly (deforming your o-rings).

 

[rocko123]

Agreed. Fix the leak. It may take a while but you will learn something and become that much closer with your system.

I had a similar issue with my converted keg MLT. Eventually, I opted to weld. But while I still had fittings, I just took it to an ace hardware in Denver and had their plumbing guy help me stop the leak.

In the meantime, don't let it slow your brewing schedule down. Catch the leak and pour it back in the top.

 

[BendBrewer]

I have 4 fender washers on the outside of mine. Have you tried adding more of these? Also, the seal that came with the keg needs to sit right. Can't think of anything else.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Teflon tape will help to seal the threads on the nipple...as a last resort some dap 100% silicone will likely seal it up. No shame in that, not everyone can be a master plumber.

 

[Chefkeith]

I was constantly plagued with leaks on my plastic tuns; that's one of the reasons I sprang for metal with electric elements.

Generally speaking, it can be fixed, though. I've found that the nice gunky old wort was what kept mine from leaking. Then I would clean it and deal with leaks for the next three batches.

 

[ShakerD]

If you can take apart your fitting. I bought two and found out that with one, the threaded connecting piece wasn't centered. I centered it, Teflon taped it and installed it. It was perfect after that.

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

Thanks for the advice all. Particularly about nasty stuff getting in between the cooler, definitely can't be good for beer. Have used lots of teflon tape, just don't think that is where the leak is coming from. Obviously would love to fix the leak properly, will take another stab (with more fender washers, wet o-rings, manage tightness [might be on to something here]). If all else fails will use wilserbrewer's advice on some silicone! Thanks again!!!

 

[Chefkeith]

I've found that round coolers are tougher than flat-sided coolers, obviously. You might try to get a larger washer from McMaster-Carr that fits over your o-ring to keep it in place. Just look for a washer that has and ID matches your o-rings OD. That's how Blichmann and Kal from The Electric Brewery does their weld-less fittings.

You might have to bend the washer to match the rounded surface of the tun.

 

[BendBrewer]

This is what can happen if you tighten it too tight. Doubt this is what you have now as it was a lot more than a small leak. Just showing you what can happen.

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

Thanks again. Looks like it was leaking where my purchased conversion kit had welded the washer on the ball valve! I put some plastic concrete repair on the outside and it did the trick. Too bad my stainless braid ring set-up was a dud and collapsed during the mash!.

 

[rocko123]

That's a pisser. Keep at it, you'll get your system tweaked to your liking at some point. Then you'll start dreaming up new ways to break it in the name of progress!

 

[the_bird]

Thanks again. Looks like it was leaking where my purchased conversion kit had welded the washer on the ball valve! I put some plastic concrete repair on the outside and it did the trick. Too bad my stainless braid ring set-up was a dud and collapsed during the mash!.

You sure it was stainless? They sell a lot of hoses with a nylon wrap that LOOKS like it's stainless, but it's not. The nylon won't hold up to mash temps, but no reason for a real SS braid to fail.

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

That's a possibility, felt like stainless when it pricked me. I may try another "real" SS braid again. Was thinking about trying the manifold method.