How can I consolidate these breakers to add a GFI breaker?

[HHP]

Here is my panel with the panel removed. My house was built in 72 so stuff in there is pretty old.

The label describing which circuit each breaker supplies is less than helpful. It seems like there are more 2-pole breakers (30A+) than should be required.

My current large current electric equipment:
Range
Dryer
Water Heater
Air conditioner
Air Handler/Heater?

Here it is, I turned the one I think is extra off:

 

[lonetexan]

My suggestion is to get a licensed electrician to install a new panel that will handle what you need to accomplish. Trying to work with what you have will likely be just as or more costly than a new panel.

 

[flatulentfox]

Those are Square D QO breakers.

If you could find this with dual 30A circuits it could work.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SQ...ribution-_-2DG49&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=2DG49

If that 30A breaker is extra, just use it.

Then either but GFCI protection in your panel or get the ever popular spa panel and put it inline.

 

[HHP]

I dont think that particular breaker is extra, i turned it off for 12 hours and the water temp dropped by 10 degrees.

Im curious if anyone knows how many breakers are required for all of my electrical appliances? Do five appliances require seven breakers?

 

[conpewter]

For big appliances like that I would think they would have 1 breaker each. I can see no way that there would be more than 1 2-pole breaker for an appliance.

I have worked on several panels, adding breakers or consolidating (tandem breakers) and I'm sure you can re-use one of those breakers if you really only have 5 big electric appliances.

Just be sure to turn off the main breaker just to be safe when you are switching the wires to a breaker, definitely turn it off if you are replacing a breaker. The main lines coming in to the box and their lugs will still be hot though so be careful. Some houses have a breaker out by the meter so if you have that then you are set, turn that off and the whole house is dead.

If you are not very comfortable with electricity I suggest you hire an electrician to do this, or at least get a friend to come over that is more experienced.

Also I suggest getting a GFCI breaker or a GFCI protected 30 amp cord like I have.

 

[DarkBrood]

I grew up with a father who is both a licensed electrician and licensed electrical engineer working in design....I know a hell of a lot about wiring, but the best rule of thumb the adage-lovin' guy taught me was that "When it comes to electricity, if you're not sure, it's best to hire someone." I must've heard that line a hundred times over the years.....

 

[ruralbrew]

Looks to me as if the 30 amp on the bottom might not be being used. (13 15) It doesn't look as if there are wires hooked up to it.

 

[foolishpride]

I'm a noob when it comes to brewing, but I've been an IBEW journeyman wireman for 25 years. Just a couple of questions from your picture:

I don't understand the 3 - 50 amp breakers. I know one will probably feed your range. Do you have a sub-panel somewhere that one of these breakers feed?

The 2 - 30 amp breakers will probably be feeding your dryer and your water heater.

You stated you have an air conditioner and air handler. How large are these units? Do you have a large sized house?

You have probably the best brand of house panel that you can buy in the Square D QO Panel, but it doesn't have enough spaces. That's why you have all those piggyback breakers. I assume you have a 200 amp service. You could have an electrician change out your panel to a 40 circuit panel.

Where are your neutrals and grounds landed at? Can't tell from the picture.

 

[foolishpride]

Looks to me as if the 30 amp on the bottom might not be being used. (13 15) It doesn't look as if there are wires hooked up to it.

I believe the black and red wires are landed on that breaker, from the picture.

 

[yjfun]

Hot tub?

Electric furnace?

 

[HHP]

The "map" that was located on the door of the panel lists the following:

1/3: A/C (50A)
2/4: "Hete" (heat?) (60A)
5/7: "Hete" (heat?) (50A)
6/8: Water Heater (30A)
9/11: Stove (50A)
10/12: Nothing is listed, but when I left it off for 12 hours my water temp fell about 10 degrees (30A)
13/15: Dryer (30A)

All of the breakers have wires connected (including 13/15).

My thought is possibly the water heater is actually 10/12 and 6/8 is just an extra 30A breaker?

Is it possible that the A/C and air handler/heater really need two 50A breakers and a 60A?

Any other take? I think I'll try turning off the "water heater" breaker and see if the temp goes down...

 

[flatulentfox]

To know for sure, turn off the breakers one by one, and go to the various appliances and check them using a voltage meter. Then you will know for sure and you can relabel the panel accordingly.

No offense, but if you are not comfortable doing that, you really shouldn't be poking around in the panel in the first place...

 

[mateomtb]

The "map" that was located on the door of the panel lists the following:

1/3: A/C (50A)
2/4: "Hete" (heat?) (60A)
5/7: "Hete" (heat?) (50A)
.

"Hete" is suspect enough for me have an electrician pal take a look. Maybe that's how they spell it in Texas though. LOL