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Hot Side Aeration?

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bknifefight

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I just had a big revelation that I may be doing something bad, bad, bad.

To speed up my chilling, I recirculate my wort through a pump back into the top of the kettle. The entire time, the wort is splashing. I usually start the pump with about 10 minutes left in the boil, to sanitize the pump and the tubing.

With the splashing involved, I am most definitely adding oxygen. With the 10 minutes before the boil kicks, I generally am doing this re-circulation for about 20-30 minutes total, depending on how cold my ground water is when chilling.

Thoughts?
 
It might be a problem, it might not. HSA is generally hard to achieve in normal home brew operations, but splashing hot for 20 minutes is somewhat unusual. Do you taste off flavors? If so, then, yes, you might have problem. Even if you don't get HSA, you might be losing hop aroma on hoppier beers, thanks to much larger exposed surface area. Stop the splashing and see if something changes for the better.
 
I just had a big revelation that I may be doing something bad, bad, bad.

To speed up my chilling, I recirculate my wort through a pump back into the top of the kettle. The entire time, the wort is splashing. I usually start the pump with about 10 minutes left in the boil, to sanitize the pump and the tubing.

With the splashing involved, I am most definitely adding oxygen. With the 10 minutes before the boil kicks, I generally am doing this re-circulation for about 20-30 minutes total, depending on how cold my ground water is when chilling.

Thoughts?

You don't need to circulate that long. At boiling temperature, pasteurization occurs in seconds.
 
Your description reminds me of Jamil's recirculating wort chiller. If the beer turns out ok I wouldn't sweat it.
 
Keep doing what your doing. Just use a longer return hose that dips down below the surface of the wort in your kettle. Now you are chilling the whole batch and you are not adding oxygen when it is hot.

After the temp drops below 140 degrees you can pull the return hose up above the wort and start oxygenated your wort, keep chilling until you hit your yeast pitch temperature.
 
Keep doing what your doing. Just use a longer return hose that dips down below the surface of the wort in your kettle. Now you are chilling the whole batch and you are not adding oxygen when it is hot.

After the temp drops below 140 degrees you can pull the return hose up above the wort and start oxygenated your wort, keep chilling until you hit your yeast pitch temperature.

That's exactly what I did. I added a barbed attachment and about a 1 foot section of high temp hose. Problem (even if it's in my head) Solved!
 
The only people who still believe in HSA are people who bottle condition and refuse to admit that they are oxidizing their beer during packaging. If you aren't kegging and purging your post ferment transfers with CO2, don't look for mythical hot side problems - all your problems are cold side.
 
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