BrewskiBroski
Well-Known Member
Excellent... thank you very much... I think I got it now... might have some questions come up throughout the build
Ill try to take pictures throughout the build to show you guys what you helped me with!
You want to get 1K-ohm 1W resistors I got mine from a local electronics shop, but these are at radio shack. They are really inexpensive like 1.50 for a four pack. I just soldered them in line to a 14g wire then used some wire heat shrink over them.
Any advice on where and what brand of wire to purchase?
I found a pretty decent selection of hookup wire at Home Depot. I initially bought most of my wire at Frys and I think I paid more for that wire than the latest spools that I found at the depot.
I guess I was just trying to figure out why one would have a manual mode for the elements if you were going to use the BCS all the time. However, I suppose you could always have the elements in manual to start and then flip to auto once you get close to the right temps. Is this what you do?
The breakers are not needed as the power requirement would be much lower (30 Amps)
I'm curious - You quote an entry Originally Posted by Bsquared - however the diagram is one that is completely different than the one he posted. How did you do that??? Your quoted diagrams show the use of 240V pumps. Is that what you will be doing?
Here is another diagram that might fit your needs a little better:
Please note that I have changed the switches to illuminated units. Switch 7 is used to limit power delivery to one or the other element.
- as always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")
Hmmmm..A contactor is a relay that is purpose built to handle switching a large load. The ones we're using are not typically DPDT. SPST rated for 240V 30A is what I'm using:
http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CN-PBC302-120V
Hmmmm..
That is a DPST just like the Auberins contactors. (The ones I always recommend).
Good job, you are right on the money there.
It is A-Ok.So i did a little searching last night and found this inexpensive contactor on amazon... any reason why i can't use this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
A wire gauge question again -
should all grounds and neutrals be 10 gauge? (greens and yellows)
then the hots going to the fuses are 10 gauge until after the fuses... then 18 gauge to the SSR and pump outlets?
Heating element hots are all 10 gauge
the wire from the BCS can all be 24 gauge?
Just want to double check before i put the order in.
I thought someone else would take the wire gauge question.. but I'll take a stab at it.
Grounds should be 10.
Neutral should be the same gauge as whatever hot you are going to reference it to.
If you only use the neutral after it crosses the fuse and becomes 18, then it can be 18 as well. Neutral is only ever going to be used to reference 110V, so whatever current you have on that line is the current it needs to be able to carry.
Heating elements and everything up to them - 10.
BCS wire 24 gauge, yes. I recommend a 250mA fuse on the +5 VDD from the BCS. If you get too much current draw on that pin or you short it to something, you'll blow the BCS voltage regulator (ask me how I know).
Heat sinks should ideally be vented to the outside of the box where they can get some fresh air. If you really want to keep them inside, you should mount a fan and blow air across the heat sinks and push hot air out of the box. Since you'd need to cut a hole for a fan, it's probably just easier to cut holes for the heat sinks and be done with it.
There's really no reason you couldn't do what I did and just mount the heat sinks to the box with no aluminum sheet between them. The standard SSR heatsinks have mounting notches on the top and bottom, you cut the hole such that the notch would mount on the inside of the box with the heatsink sticking out. Then mount the SSR to that.
Also... you got me kind of curious... how did you end up getting too much draw from the BCS and blow the voltage regulator?
BTW, I recommend the above - connect earth ground to the BCS ground. Before I did this I was seeing some very strange behavior on the temp probes. They'd read accurately for most of the time, but there were spikes and dips at random times - all the probes would move in unison on these spikes (some more than others - but always at the same time). Connecting BCS ground to earth ground solved that and gives me rock solid stability on my temp readings - obviously very important for a system designed for temperature control. I have BCS ground go to a terminal block, system ground connects to that block, and one side of all the temp probes goes back to that as well.
I do not follow your question.My question is on p-j diagram he has 40 amp ssr which are rated to 3500 watts running 5500 watt elements? Am I missing something?
The SSR can carry 40A. It's that simple. The vendors comment "or other appliance up to 3500Watt power consumption" is referring to appliances that probably have motors in them. Motors have a fairly high amp draw at startup.http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HZLMTW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
According to this ssr it's max is 3500 watts. Are you using something different?
There is absolutely no need for a 4 wire outlet and plug for the elements. There are only 2 current carrying connections (on the element its self) and equipment ground. A 3 wire outlet and plug is all that is needed.Looking at the two element diagram.... How hard would it be to add a four prong instead of a three for the elements? Would it simplify things not having a 3 way manual switching option?
I've seen where people mount a plug inside for the 5V walwort. That's probably the easiest,
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