Help with Pale Ale Recipe

[Monk]

Hi guys. Anyone have some advice on this APA recipe? Unfortunately, and in part due to extreme busy-ness and lack of attention, I've brewed some not-so-good batches lately. I'd like to change that, but I'm wary of using my own recipe. So...what d'ya think:

.75 lb Crystal 15L
.25lb Crystal 60L
7 lb Pale LME

.75 oz Simcoe (for 60 min boil)
.5 oz Cascade (for 20 min)
.5 oz Simcoe (for 1-2 min and steep)
US56 yeast

I read someone else say they were loving the simcoe aroma, so I thought I'd try that out. Meisters? Your opinions for a newby? Thanks

 

[brackbrew]

It seems like a pretty safe recipe. Just out of curiosity why the two different lovibond crystal malts? Just a color thing. I'm assuming the yeast is Safale yeast. I've never used it, I usually go with White Labs liquid cultures in the vials. Any of their Cali Ale strains are great for Pale Ales. Don't have much experience with simcoe, either, but a lot of people are raving about it. Won't hurt to try it!

Let us know how it turns out!

BREW ON

 

[Kaiser]

Looks good to me. Some Crystal, pale base malt (you extract) hop flavor and aroma -> a typical pale ale.

What do you think was the problem with your previous batches?

Kai

 

[Monk]

I think the problem was twofold: with recipe and technique.

I've been a bit careless about throwing recipes together, using whatever I have around. This wouldn't be much of a problem, except I'm too inexperienced (I think) to know which hop flavors blend well, which ones are used for particular styles, etc.

The technique aspect is even more of a negative influence, I think. I'm currently housesitting my grandma's pad (she just moved into a nursing home) and her gas range doesn't work. So I'm reduced to making small batches (2 gal) with tiny boils (.75 gal boil) on an electric hot plate. I know, that's about the most ghetto and pathetic setup possible. Both the grains and LME end up getting scorched, and the LME is pretty carmelized, despite late additions.

So...this batch will be a 3 gal boil on a nice gas range in a good quality pot. I hope it turns out well. Morale could use the boost!

 

[Ivan Lendl]

.75 lb Crystal 15L
.25lb Crystal 60L
7 lb Pale LME

.75 oz Simcoe (for 60 min boil)
.5 oz Cascade (for 20 min)
.5 oz Simcoe (for 1-2 min and steep)
US56 yeast

I read someone else say they were loving the simcoe aroma, so I thought I'd try that out. Meisters? Your opinions for a newby? Thanks

That will work. Ive got one similar in my primary right now that has 10lbs pale ale, .5 lb crystal 10L, .5 lbs munich, columbus and simcoe and us 56 yeast.
id ditch the cascade and just use sims straight up (you already know what cascade is like)...

 

[Monk]

Just out of curiosity why the two different lovibond crystal malts? I'm assuming the yeast is Safale yeast.

I wanted to add some complexity and thought the flavors of the crystal might be a bit different. Is that true?

As for the yeast, I think Safale us56 is my favorite. It's so easy and has been really dependable for me.

Thanks for the encouragement!

 

[Monk]

id ditch the cascade and just use sims straight up (you already know what cascade is like)...

I was thinking of doing just that, actually. What made you want to use just simcoe? Experience from previous batches? What flavor does Simcoe give? I've never used it.

 

[brackbrew]

I'm currently housesitting my grandma's pad (she just moved into a nursing home) and her gas range doesn't work. So I'm reduced to making small batches (2 gal) with tiny boils (.75 gal boil) on an electric hot plate. I know, that's about the most ghetto and pathetic setup possible. Both the grains and LME end up getting scorched, and the LME is pretty carmelized, despite late additions.

Man, no wonder you haven't been satisfied with your brews. Go out and get yourself a cheap turkey fryer burner/kettle and a propane tank and do it in the backyard! Considering your current state, it might be the best $60-$75 you could invest!

Whatever happens though, in all seriousness, good luck and, of course,

BREW ON

 

[Baron von BeeGee]

Since you're having issues with scorching LME, why not just go to DME? I find it easier to work with and you can store away any unused portion.

The recipe looks pretty nice...I would cut the crystal down to 3/4lb total, probably, but that's just me and pretty minor. I normally use one crystal in my APA, but I've been considering trying a 20L/60L combination for the complexity you mention.

Another personal opinion, I'd bump the flavor hops up to 3/4-1oz, and I'd also dryhop with 1/2-1oz.

 

[Monk]

Brack and Baron: Thanks for your tips!

As far as the turkey fryer goes, if I were in this situation for much longer, I'd definitely go for that. But I'll be out of here very soon. Free rent has it's disadvantages, I guess...

Baron: I have a lot to learn when it comes to hop use. For instance, does a 2 min hop addition add aroma AND flavor, or just aroma? And does the 20 min addition add only a bit of bitterness, some hop flavor, but no aroma? I need to self educate, too, in regards to what I actually like in a beer. I'm not sure whether it's the flavor, or just the aroma of hops I really like. In general, I like APAs, but not super hoppy ones. I'm usually not fond of mega hopped IPAs, either (except right before a spicy meal--that's the perfect palate preparation). I like SNPA and similar APAs. Bitter, but not super bitter...and I don't think they dryhop, either. What do you like in your APA recipe (flavor, aroma, bitterness-wise)? Thanks for your help.

 

[Baron von BeeGee]

Hop bitterness/flavor/aroma can be viewed as a continuum or scale in my opinion. Hops added at 60 minutes or earlier contribute, for the most part, bitterness. Hops added as dryhopping contribute almost purely aroma. Hops added late in the boil contribute a little of both. As you slide back towards 60 minutes you get more and more into bitterness. As you slide towards 0 you get more and more into flavor and aroma. Note that the very delicate aromas in hops will get vaporized pretty dang quickly in boiling wort, even added very late, while dry hopping will help preserve these compounds.

In terms of APA's:
I'm leaning towards a 60/15/0/dh schedule at the moment. I'm not sure adding hops at 30 does too much. I go ahead and get as much bitterness as I want at 60, then using the 15 and 0 for some flavor and a bit of aroma, and then dryhop for a nice hoppy aromatic nose which I like.

I play with hops so much it's hard to say I've settled on any particular variety. I go for a high AA hop (Columbus, Chinook, Warrior) for bittering so I can use less of them to achieve my bittering level. I focus on hops I really like the aroma of for all other additions (Columbus, Centennial, Cascade, Amarillo).

I have tons to learn about APA's and hopping schedules, so take all this with a grain of salt...

 

[Monk]

Thank you! That's a really easy way to understand it. In the past I guess I've added mostly bitterness and aroma, since my additions were usually at 60 and 2 min of boil. I did an ESB, however, with a 20 min Challenger addition. That tastes pretty good, but it needs some time to condition and for the alcohol flavor to drop a bit so that the hop flavor can come to the forefront, I think.