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WortMonger

"Whatcha doin' in my waters?"
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Hey guys, just wanted to let my trusted HBTer's give me some pointers on my first magazine contribution ever. I really hope I don't have much to change, but welcome all criticism to help me get this out there to the masses. Please let me know what you think and any specific changes you would rather see in the finished article. Thanks again guys.
 
Fermenting Under Pressure
It Might Actually Reduce Your Stress Level When Fermenting a Batch of Beer
by John Lowry (aka WortMonger)



Every time I brew a batch of beer and start the flow of rich worty goodness towards my Sanke fermentor, I start to hear that famous bass line from one of my favorite songs. That’s right, it’s Queen and David Bowie singing “Under Pressure.” The reason for this is simple… I ferment in a completely closed fermentation keg under pressure. Why? Well, that’s the reason I decided to write this article.

My process may look at first like some sort of a complicated procedure, but it really isn’t much different than what most everyone does right now. The biggest difference is that I am doing some steps at the same time, and that I do everything under a positive pressure environment. First there is my fermentor, a Sanke beer keg that I use completely sealed up so I can build up CO2 pressure for lower krausen height and for natural carbonation. Next we have what makes my process controllable, so I don’t create a beer A-Bomb!!! I am talking about my handy-dandy spunding valve. Some German brewers utilize a little device on their lagering tanks called a spunding valve. This is nothing more than an adjustable back-pressure relief valve with an attached pressure gauge for reading the pressure inside their lager tank. With this device, they can measure the amount of pressure in the tank so they can naturally carbonate to a desired volume. There is a wealth of searchable knowledge for what to buy to make your own, including a Jan/Feb 2007 BYO article by Marc Martin, so I won’t go into that specifically. Last is the tap connector, or other connector sold by vendors to connect you to the keg and hold in pressure. This product is great, but for the sake of simplicity I will stick to what everyone with a keg should already have… a Sanke tap connector. That’s it, that’s all that is involved in doing your very own pressurized fermentation. Now let’s delve into the reasons anyone might want to even do this in the first place.

I differ a slight bit from what the author of the BYO spunding article does, which is how most people use spunding valves towards the very end of primary, by utilizing the slight pressure at the beginning of fermentation to mimic the hydrostatic pressure the Big Boys have by using such large fermentor. This also allows me to keep the krausen height down a bit more than an open or air-locked fermentation would, as well as some other aspects I will go into with a little more information. I have seen from personal experience the ability to raise the fermentation temperature a little bit in a pressurized fermentation and still have the flavor profile of a lower temperature “normal fermentation.” Through research I found other possible benefits to a pressurized over non-pressurized fermentation. Ray Daniels was one of the first Beer Gods I came across in my research when wondering if this would work or not. He made me want to dig further after reading his response to a question about fermenting under pressure in a Homebrew Digest #3986 find. Basically, he stated that in his opinion bitterness might be a bit more due to krausen staying in the fermentor vs. a blow off fermentation and that he saw nothing else that would cause him to think any other factors were negative due to the pressure. The study he referenced had variables (such as pitching rates and fermentation temperatures) that led him to say he thought it, “exceedingly unlikely that you would discern any consistent bias in your results under pressure fermentation versus non-pressure. He also spoke of diacetyl being increased, which I will talk about in a minute.

Now for the article that sealed the deal for me on actually trying this for myself with the utmost confidence I wasn‘t wasting a batch. I came across another Beer Deity and her article about pressurized fermentation. Teri Fahrendorf wrote a paper about Closed System Pressurized Fermentation (http://www.terifahrendorf.com/Closed-Pressurized-Fermenatation), in which she makes the statement, “The less complicated your technique, the more you can concentrate on the joy of the art of home brewing.” While this system seems more intricate than the “norm,” it is a streamlined and completely sanitary way to brew beer. Less messing with the beer and less introduction to the atmosphere means less possibility of infection, which makes this a less worrisome and simpler brewing method in my mind. After reading this article, I bought my spunding valve, started brewing Closed System, and haven’t looked back since.

Ok, picking up where I left off at the beginning with music playing in my head as I transfer my cooled, aerated, pitched wort into my Sanke fermentor. I ferment in a controlled temperature chest freezer with the Sanke placed inside prior to kettle knock-out. After the beer enters the keg, I seal it up and attach my spunding valve to the gas port on my tap connector (gas check valve removed of course). After primary fermentation is over I am “naturally carbonated” and ready to mature my beer for whatever length it needs, saving time by not having to later carbonate my beer. I follow this with a crash cooling for ales before transferring with a filter into my smaller serving kegs. For lagers, I will transfer into a lagering keg to store right after primary fermentation is over. Then I transfer with a filter to my serving kegs.

I like to set my spunding valve to 5-7 psi while purging serving kegs, so that I know what my starting set pressure will be when I place it on my fermentor. I have a testing spigot set up on the beer port of my spunding tap connector, so that I can test gravity and know when to crank up the valve for wanted carbonation volume at the end of fermentation. It is just that easy! I have thrown in different variables from time to time, such as pumping the kettle into a already sealed keg. That is the fun part. As soon as you understand you are keeping the beer away from the outside, you can come up with lots of different things to try on your own.

Now that I have shown you the benefits of this process as they have to do with sanitation, ease, and time savings, let me show you some other things this technique can do for you. Remember I told you we would talk about diacetyl in a minute? Well, this guy with a funny German accent steered me to even more positive information beyond all the stuff we have just learned about. Kai Troester chimed in on my thread about this subject (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/closed-system-pressurized-fermentation-technique-44344/) with a link to his wiki page about Fermenting Lagers (Fermenting Lagers - German brewing and more). He tracked down information from the Technical University of Vienna, in which he found several methods of a technique known as accelerated maturation in commercial brewing. Kai sent me over the top with this information. I had been using my technique and been successful, but had no idea about any more benefits other than what have been mentioned already. I mean I was happy already, then Kai’s charts showed me I was using something that commercial breweries use as well. I chose to look at “B” on the chart he discovered, which was Accelerated Fermentation Under CO2 Pressure. Kai’s information was, “(B) - shows a lager fermentation schedule that uses higher fermentation temperatures and pressure to accelerate the primary fermentation and maturation of the beer. The controlled use of pressure allows the production of esters and higher alcohols, which is more intensive at higher fermentation temperatures, to be limited [Narziss, 2005]. Though more diacetyl is produced because of the higher fermentation temperature it is also reduced quicker, allowing the beer to maturate within only 8 days.”

Thanks a million Kai. This information was just icing on the cake for me to continue doing what I was doing with an even more positive attitude. I hope you will research the references I have shown you and hopefully give this technique a shot. There are subtleties that only the threads and articles referenced can show you to expand on the information I have written about. I think you will find that once you have all the equipment needed and a sound game plan, you will find this to be a completely worry free way to ferment a batch of beer.
 
Now that's facinating stuff! Wish I could afford all the stuff to do that then keg it. Cutting time while making a better product is def good.
 
I would prefer to see less side-bar storytelling and commentary like "Ray Daniels was one of the first Beer Gods I came across in my research" and more basic evidence and information. I'd also like to see something where you talked with the people at the Technical University of Vienna, or something similar, instead of using forum posts as a reference. To me it reads more like a blog than an article. I'm no author or anything...I'm just giving it to you from my prospective, as a BYO reader. Congrats on writing up an article :mug:
 
I would prefer to see less side-bar storytelling and commentary like "Ray Daniels was one of the first Beer Gods I came across in my research" and more basic evidence and information. I'd also like to see something where you talked with the people at the Technical University of Vienna, or something similar, instead of using forum posts as a reference. To me it reads more like a blog than an article. I'm no author or anything...I'm just giving it to you from my prospective, as a BYO reader. Congrats on writing up an article :mug:

I will take this into consideration. Thank you.
 
Not that expensive to do the spunding valve, and if you have all the stuff for kegging already.

Picked up two of the spunding valves from McMaster-Carr and neither of them stops at any PSI level. If you leave them connected, you'll eventually lose all pressure. Even with the thing in the 'closed' position it leaks pressure out. I put my ear up to the end and could feel/hear the gas coming out. Even when in the range the valve is supposed to be adjustable for.

How about a reliable source for the valves? With that, I could give it a shot, since I also have the sanke fermenter kits. I'm thinking that installing the spunding valve on the gas post (getting the base for those welded in this week I hope) while putting a cap over the keg opening, would let that work.
 
I used to write for a mag with international circulation. I found that an article needs to have a bit of leavity to make it interesting to the reader. Cut & dried tech only sort of articles bog down your brain pretty quick.
If you've ever read articles in HOT ROD magazine by John Dianna & Leonard Emanullson,you know what I mean.
 
I used to write for a mag with international circulation. I found that an article needs to have a bit of leavity to make it interesting to the reader. Cut & dried tech only sort of articles bog down your brain pretty quick.
If you've ever read articles in HOT ROD magazine by John Dianna & Leonard Emanullson,you know what I mean.

So, you likey or no likey? I tried to keep it from me, with my enthusiasm, but yet with enough information from my own trials as well as things people could research themselves if interested. Please, critique me.
 
Picked up two of the spunding valves from McMaster-Carr and neither of them stops at any PSI level. If you leave them connected, you'll eventually lose all pressure. Even with the thing in the 'closed' position it leaks pressure out. I put my ear up to the end and could feel/hear the gas coming out. Even when in the range the valve is supposed to be adjustable for.

How about a reliable source for the valves? With that, I could give it a shot, since I also have the sanke fermenter kits. I'm thinking that installing the spunding valve on the gas post (getting the base for those welded in this week I hope) while putting a cap over the keg opening, would let that work.

Wow, even my worst valve will hold pressure. I hope you can find one that works for you. I honestly love this technique and the use of the spunding valve throughout my brewery.
 
Wow, even my worst valve will hold pressure. I hope you can find one that works for you. I honestly love this technique and the use of the spunding valve throughout my brewery.

Well, both of the ones I received don't hold pressure at any setting. Assuming you want the part that moves all the way in to be in the 'closed' position. No documentation came with it, so there's no way to know. I'm probably going to contact McMaster-Carr and tell them that both of the valves are not working properly. Sucks donkey private parts that they don't work.

Not the end of the world for me, since I'm perfectly happy carbonating in the brew fridge, at serving pressure for 2-3 weeks before connecting to the faucet. I've gotten into a cycle that when I have an empty spot in the fridge, it's about three or four weeks before a faucet opens up. :rockin: Besides, I ferment in larger kegs than I serve in (using 2.5 and 3 gallon kegs to serve from, ferment in 1/4 bbl and 25L kegs)...
 
So, you likey or no likey? I tried to keep it from me, with my enthusiasm, but yet with enough information from my own trials as well as things people could research themselves if interested. Please, critique me.

Well,looking at it as a whole,it's pretty well written. But looking at the brewing god sort of comments,I think a little more cheerful sort of home brew guy levity would be better. Kinda like the tool man kinda stuff,but that's my style. I just think it lightens things up for the reader,making you as the writer appear more human. Make then identify with what your saying. You're real close though. :mug:
 
Well,looking at it as a whole,it's pretty well written. But looking at the brewing god sort of comments,I think a little more cheerful sort of home brew guy levity would be better. Kinda like the tool man kinda stuff,but that's my style. I just think it lightens things up for the reader,making you as the writer appear more human. Make then identify with what your saying. You're real close though. :mug:

Very good Sir! Thanks for your input. I will make some changes and try again.:rockin:
 
It's minor, but this sentence reads a little awkwardly. I had to reread it a few times to figure out what you were trying to say.

"I came across another Beer Deity and her article about pressurized fermentation."

Besides that, looks great!
 
Is the purpose of this article to get readers interested in pressurized fermentation to spur further research, or be a sort of how-to and get-your-feet-wet kind of guide to start ordering parts and slapping spunding valves onto kegs?

I've read through your pressurized fermentation thread here on HBT so I know the general ins and outs, but if I were hearing about this for the first time from your article I'd probably have about a thousand questions after reading. One being "how do I start?", so that means it's obviously successful in spurring interest. Possibly including a line or two about how people on online forums have been working with this technique and pointing people in that direction for further information could help.

Just my $.02.
 
Not knowing a lot about closed fermentation, I didn't feel like I got a great understanding of the process or a real drive to learn more about it. Is the goal of the article to talk about your system/technique? Is it to get people interested in closed fermentation? It feels like there is a lack of focus enhanced by the over-use of levity. You could trim some of that back and add some more technical details/explanation. Towards the end the article sort of delves into a shout out to Kai. Probably not necessary.

There is a lot of excess word use that you could trim to include more information.
 
I found that ther's a fine line between just tech writing & writing to keep the reader's interest. Very much like teaching grade school students. I had to do that twice as part of the curiculum for my associate degree in programing back in the early 80's. Writing for magazines is indeed very much the same.
Nothing but tech jargon & info can boggle the average reader's brain pretty quick. So I wrote to give good info,with just a sprinkling of levity related to the info being ralated. Not just levity for the sake of it. There is a difference.
But,as in other things in life,you won't please everyone. So a delicate balance will always be the norm.
 
So, do u guys think I keep peoples attention in this article? I didn't want a tech write up like my wiki and forum thread. I am making some recommended changes but to let u know what I was thinking when writing this; my thoughts were just enough basic info to understand the process, show proof it isn't a crazy thing with links to more information for those interested in getting further into it. I also wanted it to be a friendly read to not bore the reader. I will continue to tweak it and post my new draft soon to get even more great feedback. Thank u all for comments and your help.
 
WortMonger said:
I differ a slight bit from what the author of the BYO spunding article does, which is how most people use spunding valves towards the very end of primary, by utilizing the slight pressure at the beginning of fermentation to mimic the hydrostatic pressure the Big Boys have by using such large fermentor.
This sentence had me reading it a few times till I finally realise what you were saying. Kept thinking you were saying that most people use the valve at the very end of the primary to utilise the slight pressure at the the beginning of the primary :confused:
Don't want to tell you how to write it but maybe something like:
Most people use spunding valves towards the very end of primary to carbonate the fermeted beer. With pressurised fermentation I use the spunding valve to create a slight positive pressure at the beginning of fermentation to mimic the hydrostatic pressure the Big Boys have by using such large fermentor.

Well, both of the ones I received don't hold pressure at any setting. Assuming you want the part that moves all the way in to be in the 'closed' position. No documentation came with it, so there's no way to know. I'm probably going to contact McMaster-Carr and tell them that both of the valves are not working properly. Sucks donkey private parts that they don't work...
Golddiggie, are you sure you got a pressure relief valve and not a pressure control valve? The relief will vent pressure above the set point, whereas the control valve bassically throttles the flow to drop the pressure after the valve (basically it is just a neddle valve). Do you have the part number you bought?
:off: Sorry WortMonger
 
This sentence had me reading it a few times till I finally realise what you were saying. Kept thinking you were saying that most people use the valve at the very end of the primary to utilise the slight pressure at the the beginning of the primary :confused:
Don't want to tell you how to write it but maybe something like:



Golddiggie, are you sure you got a pressure relief valve and not a pressure control valve? The relief will vent pressure above the set point, whereas the control valve bassically throttles the flow to drop the pressure after the valve (basically it is just a neddle valve). Do you have the part number you bought?
:off: Sorry WortMonger

Thanks for your input, and yes all the hard to read sentences are being changed. I had to get the ideas out there first, then hone it to a nice sharp point.
 
Thanks for your input, and yes all the hard to read sentences are being changed. I had to get the ideas out there first, then hone it to a nice sharp point.

Yeah I know what you mean, I agree completely that it is easier to dump all you thoughts out in one lot then go back and fine tune it later :) Most of it was pretty easy to read, kind of like a letter to a freind sort of style, this was really the only sentence that had me racking my brain :D
 
When I was writing for that mag,I had to re-write up to 5-6 times to get the final copy the way I wanted it. Not to mention having to submit them a month early. I really enjoyed it though. If you do it right & often enough,the pen really is mightier than the sword.
 
Well, this was my first draft. I was hoping I would have very little to change prior to adding pictures and sending it in. I am trying to get another draft ready for tonight to get more information about that one. you guys are really helping me out. the close I get to 3000 words the more money I would make anyway, ;) lol.
 
Well, this was my first draft. I was hoping I would have very little to change prior to adding pictures and sending it in. I am trying to get another draft ready for tonight to get more information about that one. you guys are really helping me out. the close I get to 3000 words the more money I would make anyway, ;) lol.

Glad we can help, I have read your thread about it but this is nice to have it all in one easy to read Magazine article. Cheers for your services to homebrewing :mug:
Also what pressure do you use while fermenting? It says you set it to 5-7 psi while purging serving kegs, is this implying that you ferment at 5-7 psi? Maybe clear that up a bit. Sorry for sounding like a picky dick but I just want this to be a great article :)
 
Fermenting Under Pressure?
It Might Actually Reduce Your Pressure Level When Fermenting a Batch of Beer
by John Lowry (aka WortMonger)



Every time I brew up a batch of beer, and start the flow of rich worty goodness towards my Sanke fermentor, I start to hear that infamous bass line from one of my favorite songs. That’s right, it’s Queen and David Bowie singing “Under Pressure.” The reason for this is justifiable enough… I ferment in a completely closed 15.5 gallon Sanke keg under pressure. Why? Well, that’s the reason I decided to write this article. I am excited to tell you a little about my process, with the hope you decide to gather further information on the subject later if you choose to attempt it. Please allow me to walk you through the more general and basic approach to this technique, and I will leave it up to you. If you are hungry for more, feel free to check out my thread devoted to the process at https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/closed-system-pressurized-fermentation-technique-44344/. I warn you though, it is a mammoth read filled with way more specific information on the subject from a number of people currently having success with the technique.

My process may look at first like some sort of complicated procedure, but honestly it really isn’t that much different than what most everyone does right now. The biggest difference is that I am doing some steps at the same time, and that I do everything under a positive pressure environment. First there is my fermentor, a Sanke beer keg, that I utilize to build up CO2 pressure allowing a slightly lower krausen height, lower ester production, and natural carbonation.

Then we have what makes my process controllable, so I don’t create a fermenting beer A-Bomb!!! I am talking about my handy-dandy spunding valve. Some German brewers utilize this device on their lagering tanks to get natural carbonation towards the end of fermentation. This is nothing more than an adjustable back-pressure relief valve with an attached pressure gauge for reading the pressure inside their lager tank. With this device, they can release a measured amount of excess pressure from the fermentation process to accurately carbonate their beers to a desired volume of CO2. There is a wealth of searchable knowledge for what to buy when making your own spunding valve, including an article in the Jan/Feb 2007 issue of BYO magazine by Marc Martin and an even earlier article in a Nov 2006 issue by Chris Colby. I think you will find these articles as interesting as I did, and so I won’t go into specifics on what part numbers to purchase and the likes. Believe me, there are several ways to skin this cat… just read the thread I referenced earlier and see how many combinations or different parts there are possible. All the spunding valve parts are easily purchased from online vendors and range in price according to how fancy you want to make yours. Mine cost me around $35, which isn’t bad considering I also use it when counter-pressure transferring kegs with carbonated beer. Who doesn’t like owning multitasking tools?

Last is the Sanke tap connector, or other connector sold by vendors that connect you to the keg and hold in pressure. For the sake of simplicity, I will stick to talking about what everyone with a keg should already own… a Sanke tap connector. That’s it, that’s all that is involved in doing your very own pressurized fermentation. Now let’s delve into the reasons anyone might want to do this in the first place.

Most who use spunding valves do so towards the very end of primary fermentation, like the Germans and the BYO authors I mentioned earlier, and only to carbonate the finishing beer. When I use my spunding valve, I do so to create a slight positive pressure at the beginning of fermentation to mimic the hydrostatic pressure the Big Boys have when using such large fermentors. This allows me to keep the krausen height down a bit more than an open or air-locked fermentation would, as well as some other positive aspects I would like to elaborate on. I have seen from personal experience the ability to raise the fermentation temperature a few degrees higher in a pressurized fermentation and still have the flavor profile of a lower temperature “normal fermentation.” It was through my research though, were I found other possible benefits to a pressurized over non-pressurized fermentation.

Ray Daniels was the first trusted brewing author I came across in my research when I was just starting to wonder if this would work or not. He forced me to want to dig further, after I read his response to a question when he was asked about fermenting under pressure in the July 11, 2002 web version #3986 issue of The Homebrew Digest . Basically, he states that in his opinion bitterness might be a bit more due to krausen staying in the fermentor vs. a blow off fermentation and that he saw nothing else that would cause him to think any other factors were negative due to the pressure. The study he referenced had variables (such as pitching rates and fermentation temperatures) that led him to say he thought it, “exceedingly unlikely that you would discern any consistent bias in your results under pressure fermentation versus non-pressure.” He also spoke of diacetyl being increased, which I will talk about in a minute.

After reading Mr. Daniels article, I found another that sealed the deal for me. Up until I read this next article, I was honestly hesitant on trying this without confidence I wasn‘t going to just waste a batch of beer. I found a publication written by Teri Fahrendorf on her website about Closed System Pressurized Fermentation (http://www.terifahrendorf.com/Closed-Pressurized-Fermenatation), in which she makes the statement, “The best home brewing system is the simplest to use. The less complicated your technique, the more you can concentrate on the joy of the art of home brewing.” I cannot agree with her more. While this system seems more intricate and complicated than the “norm,” it is an extremely streamlined and completely sanitary way to brew beer. Less messing with the beer and less introduction to the atmosphere means less possibility of infection… which, makes this a less worrisome and simpler brewing method in my mind. Immediately after reading this article I bought my spunding valve, started brewing Closed System, and haven’t looked back since.

Ok, picking back up where I left off at the beginning of this strange article. The music playing in my head as I transfer my cooled, aerated, pitched wort into my Sanke fermentor. It is located in an electronically controlled temperature chest freezer with the Sanke placed inside prior to kettle knock-out. After the beer enters the keg, I seal it up and attach my spunding valve to the gas-in port on my tap connector (gas check valve removed of course). After primary fermentation is over I am “naturally carbonated” and ready to mature my beer for whatever length it needs, saving time by not having to later carbonate my beer. I follow this with a crash cooling for ales before transferring with a filter into my smaller serving kegs. For lagers, I will transfer into a lagering keg to store right after primary fermentation is over. Then I transfer with a filter to my serving kegs. I like to set my spunding valve to 5-7 psi while purging serving kegs, so that I know what my starting set pressure will be when I place it on my fermentor. 5-7 psi seems to be a good starting point for a fermentation at typical ale yeast temperatures. I have a testing spigot set up on the beer-out port of my spunding tap connector, so that I can test gravity and know when to crank up the valve for wanted carbonation volume at the end of fermentation. It is just that easy! I have thrown in different variables from time to time such as pumping the kettle into a already sealed keg, or other little things I choose to do differently. That is the fun part. As soon as you get comfortable knowing that your only major concern is keeping the beer away from the outside atmosphere under a positive pressure, you can come up with lots of different things to try on your own.

EDIT: I had to separate it so that means two posts.
 
Now that I have shown you the benefits of this process as they have to do with sanitation, ease, and time savings, let me show you some other things this technique can do for you. Remember, I told you we would talk about diacetyl in a minute? Well, this guy with a funny German accent steered me to even more positive information beyond all the stuff I had learned about earlier with this technique. Kai Troester chimed in on my thread about this subject (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/closed-system-pressurized-fermentation-technique-44344/) with a link to his wiki page about Fermenting Lagers (http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers). He tracked down information from the Technical University of Vienna, in which he found several methods of a technique known as accelerated maturation in commercial brewing. This information sent me over the top, with a now scientific approval. I had been using my technique and been successful, but had no idea about any other benefits past what has been mentioned already. I was very happy already, then Kai’s information showed me I was using something that commercial breweries use as well. On the charts he discovered, one selection was Accelerated Fermentation Under CO2 Pressure. Kai’s information for this selection was, “shows a lager fermentation schedule that uses higher fermentation temperatures and pressure to accelerate the primary fermentation and maturation of the beer. The controlled use of pressure allows the production of esters and higher alcohols, which is more intensive at higher fermentation temperatures, to be limited [Narziss, 2005]. Though more diacetyl is produced because of the higher fermentation temperature it is also reduced quicker, allowing the beer to maturate within only 8 days.”

Thanks to all the published articles for teasing me into trying this, and to Kai for finding the information that proved it was done on a professional level. This information was just icing on the cake for me to continue doing what I was doing with an even more positive attitude. I hope you will research the references I have shown you and hopefully give this technique a shot. There are subtleties that only the threads and articles I referenced can show you to expand on the information I have written about. Please read them to learn a lot more about the subject. I think you will find that once you have all the equipment needed and a sound game plan, you will find this to be a completely worry free way to ferment a batch of beer. Maybe your beer being under pressure will relieve a lot more pressure about your beer?
 
I know the ideas are essentially the same as the first post, but it's a lot clearer. I don't know how I missed it in the original article, but the part where you talk about lowering krausen and how it impacts the flavor of beer is intriguing. Would it be possible to put more in about the perceived bitterness, what caused it, etc? I also enjoy the part about accelerated fermentation and aging. I don't know if it's just because I'm re-reading it...at first I was getting the vibe that the article was about spunding valves, etc :p I'm seeing now that there is a lot of cool info that you could put into this, like stats on how fast yeast propagate under pressure vs. not, attenuation tests, how flocculation is effected, acetaldehyde levels, etc. It is only my opinion, but I think stuff like that would make a killer article.
 
I wish I had more on the subject other than I like it and it works. I am hoping to get enough people doing it that more true science can maybe come out. All the technical stuff I got from the referenced works from my research, which was all someone elses information.
 
Well, both of the ones I received don't hold pressure at any setting. Assuming you want the part that moves all the way in to be in the 'closed' position. No documentation came with it, so there's no way to know. I'm probably going to contact McMaster-Carr and tell them that both of the valves are not working properly. Sucks donkey private parts that they don't work.

Not the end of the world for me, since I'm perfectly happy carbonating in the brew fridge, at serving pressure for 2-3 weeks before connecting to the faucet. I've gotten into a cycle that when I have an empty spot in the fridge, it's about three or four weeks before a faucet opens up. :rockin: Besides, I ferment in larger kegs than I serve in (using 2.5 and 3 gallon kegs to serve from, ferment in 1/4 bbl and 25L kegs)...

Either you've got the wrong spunding valve or you've got a leak somewhere else. After you check the Mcmaster part numbers, I'd get out the soap bubbles and search for a leak.
 
I wish I had more on the subject other than I like it and it works. I am hoping to get enough people doing it that more true science can maybe come out. All the technical stuff I got from the referenced works from my research, which was all someone elses information.

Wort,

I like the general content of the article. I think some parts could use more polish for a published version. For example, the second sentence in the Ray Daniels paragraph reads like a run on sentence to me. I think you should break it up or shorten it.

This sentence: I was honestly hesitant on trying this without confidence I wasn‘t going to just waste a batch of beer...is confusing.

The end of this sentence: This information was just icing on the cake for me to continue doing what I was doing with an even more positive attitude...is awkward.

Nice job, keep working on the minor revisions.

As you know, I love the technique so I'm glad you're going to share it with more people.
 
I wish I had more on the subject other than I like it and it works. I am hoping to get enough people doing it that more true science can maybe come out. All the technical stuff I got from the referenced works from my research, which was all someone elses information.

If you are going to focus on the practical maybe you should mention something about any extra steps necessary to get all the crud out of a sanke. I assume most readers are familiar with corny kegs but maybe not on dealing with sankes (other than cutting them up for MLT, HLT, and keggles). Also have you tried using the sanke as the serving vessel, maybe by shortening the dip tube? Is there a way to eliminate all the keg-to-keg transfers? I would find it more interesting if you touched on some that.
 
Wort - just note the editors will re-write parts they find confusing or awkward, and may add their own input too. Usually it's for the better, but you should be prepared to expect some changes. BYO has republished my CB20 article a few times now (all with minor edits) but the online version is my exact copy, strangely.
 
I read through it and think its great.

However, I can echo some of peoples comments with not really understanding the whole process well. I i understood it because I read through practically all 100 pages of your main thread and I am starting to use this method.

Otherwise I found it a great read!
 
I read through it and think its great.

However, I can echo some of peoples comments with not really understanding the whole process well. I i understood it because I read through practically all 100 pages of your main thread and I am starting to use this method.

Otherwise I found it a great read!

But thats the problem with magazine articles, you only have1 or 2 pages to get all your information out but don't want it to dry and factual that it is a bore to read ;) I think the outcome of any article should be either:
a) That was interesting but not for me, or
b) That was interesting and I want to learn more, I think I might have a look at the reference they've put down there... wow, 100 pages of info for me to really learn from :D
I haven't got around to reading the last draft but I did see he has the thread referenced in the first paragraph.
 
Does a spunding valve have a pressure you can set it to, or do you have to manually vent excess pressure? It's definitely interesting stuff.

Also, I didn't think it was too technical. I like technical stuff, as long as it is well-written in a manner that makes it easy to understand.
 
Does a spunding valve have a pressure you can set it to, or do you have to manually vent excess pressure? It's definitely interesting stuff.

Also, I didn't think it was too technical. I like technical stuff, as long as it is well-written in a manner that makes it easy to understand.

Typically you pair it with a gauge to see the pressure and you can set it to maintain a certain pressure.
 
Does a spunding valve have a pressure you can set it to, or do you have to manually vent excess pressure? It's definitely interesting stuff.

Also, I didn't think it was too technical. I like technical stuff, as long as it is well-written in a manner that makes it easy to understand.

I have seen them built both ways. With a needle valve and gauge to manually bleed off excess pressure or a pressure relief valve and gauge so you don't have to manually do it. I guess it comes down to cost but I'm sure I saw some PRV at McMasters for less than $10 that should work.
 
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