hcaz999
Member
Ive done three batches with the BIAB method, and I tend to come up a little short on the SG readings (up to 11 points off)... I was wondering if any BIABers could help me out with improving my efficiency?
There is no need to use multiple pots or do a sparge of any kind with BIAB. On lower gravity beers (1.050 and under), I routinely get 75-85% efficiency. Beers 1.050 to 1.060 achieve 70-75%. As the gravity starts exceeding 1.060 efficiency really starts to suffer.
Another thing, when I heat my water to the calculated strike temp (in this case it was 172F) the way I introduce the grains into the pot, my water temp is never below 156F when Im all finished putting the grains in. Should I lower my strike temp?
That's pretty funny since I hit 82% on a brew with an OG of 1.072.
We hit 72% on a mutant mash process for a 10 gallon batch with an OG of 1.065 (this past Saturday).
I hit 79% on a brew with an OG of 1.054.
81% on a brew with an OG of 1.064.
I hit better efficiency when I had my water:grain ratio at 1.5-2qt/#. It all depended on how much grain I was using. I would mash with as much as I could, within my 32 quart pot, and make sure I could sparge in the 20 quart pot... Over 75% efficiency every time. I haven't brewed anything with an OG under 1.050, well, ever...
I don't think you NEED to double crush your grain, as long as the crush is good the first time. If it's NOT good, and they won't adjust the mill, then yes, have them run it through again to hopefully get a better crush of the grain.
I see this as one of the reasons so many all grain brewers get their own mill. You're no longer at the mercy of the LHBS, or online vendor. YOU get to set the crush to what works best for your system. If you don't get good results, then you figure out what to adjust until you do. Be that mash/sparge, crush size, mash time and temp, etc...
Not funny, just something different. The OP is using a different method than what you are familiar with. The BIAB being referred to is the one the Aussies started, here's a link. http://biabrewer.info
You do not use multiple pots or multiple bags. I have no doubt you are achieving those efficiencies with higher gravities, you are sparging.
I'm using the BIAB method as outlined on THIS site, by DeathBrewer... That method IS with two pots, one for mash, the other for sparge. I'm not the only one getting solid results that way, across a range of OG's...
I found your comment of:
"There is no need to use multiple pots or do a sparge of any kind with BIAB." a bit funny, but also a bit wrong... There IS a need to sparge, IF you want to get steady, good results. If you don't care that your efficiency is all over the place, or drops as your OG increases, fine... Personally, I'm looking for more stability of results than have to increase the grain bill even MORE if I want to brew something with substance to it. As I also mentioned, I've never brewed anything with an OG under 1.050.
I'll use BIAB when I wish, but I also now have the option of using a cooler MLT... I'll be dialing on on that over the next few brews so that I can make a big brew with it. I'll need it since the grain bill will be over 20# for a 5 gallon batch (final volume)... I might be able to do it with BIAB in my 60 quart pot, pouring the mash into my 32 quart, but then I'll be struggling to get the sparge water up to temp... Far easier to simply mash in the cooler, drain the runnings into another pot, and pour the sparge water into the cooler. Combine both sparge and mash runnings into one pot (whichever one I need to for the initial boil volume) and set it to boil. I'm trying to get it so that I can sparge with the 20 quart pot, but I might need more water than that.
for the OP.. you're not using to much water. you're doing a traditional BIAB following the aussie method. I do the same thing and hit 72-77%. after mash out stir the crap out of the grain. I also dunk the bag a couple times in the wort (not separate sparge pot) kind of like dunking a tea bag. drain it good and then make sure to squeeze every drop out you can.
btw.. how many gallons do you end up with pre-boil? how many to the fermentor?
If your pot will fit you could always slide it into your oven preheated to say 100F that should keep your temperature VERY steady. That is if your pot will fit.
I would say I'm ending up with about 6.5-7 gallons pre-boil (i dont have an exact measurement) and my last batch I ended up with about 5.25- 5.5 gallons of wort in the fermenter. I like to have a bit more so i can rack in into the secondary with as close to 5 gallons as possible
I don't know of any oven that you can set to 100F... The lowest I've seen is 200F (which mine has as it's lowest setting)... To try and heat it up to ~150F will be a little tricky. Plus, getting it to hold that temp could provide other challenges.
IF your oven goes to 150F, then sure, use it. Otherwise, good luck in getting it to a safe temp for maintaining the mash temp without going over. Or losing what you need it to be at when you stir. Or having even temperatures for the time frame (can see it going all over the place as you try to get it where you want/need it).
Nice idea, but not as easy as you make it sound...
That settles it... My apartment/kitchen officially sucks on donkey parts... No, wait, it's not even that good.
If your pot will fit you could always slide it into your oven preheated to say 100F that should keep your temperature VERY steady. That is if your pot will fit.
Heat oven to 200, turn it off and stick mash kettle in. It will hold temp very nicely.I don't know of any oven that you can set to 100F... The lowest I've seen is 200F (which mine has as it's lowest setting)... To try and heat it up to ~150F will be a little tricky. Plus, getting it to hold that temp could provide other challenges.
That's exactly what I did a couple times, it does work great.Heat oven to 200, turn it off and stick mash kettle in. It will hold temp very nicely.
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