im new here, this is my first post. id like to say hi and i hope to learn from this place. my name is paul. question is i moved the wort(5 gallon) to a seven gallon bucket with a airlock last night and pitched the yeast. the thing i think i did wrong was to strain the debris from the wort first. can i just scrap this off the inside of the bucket and the lid.?? the airlock keeps clogging with the debris and the lid pops off the bucket. will this affect the fermentation at all? id try to not get the foam so much cause thats where i heard theres alot of good yeast. my directions didnt say anything about straining the wort. i kinda wish i would have strained it. cause this seem to be a pain now. the lid wants to pop off about every 30 minutes. thanks ahead for any help.
help please. can i strain some debris from the fermenter
- Thread starter pauls
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my suggestion would be to rig up a blow off tube. search this site, but they're easy. basically a tube that fits snugly into your carboy, stopper or lid, ran into a jug of star san solution.
welcome to the forum and congrats on your first brew! you'll learn a lot from the folks here, lotta great brewers and advice!
welcome to the forum and congrats on your first brew! you'll learn a lot from the folks here, lotta great brewers and advice!
jiggs_casey
Well-Known Member
You need to let it blow off. Don't worry about the debris. You will either need to attach a blow off tube to your fermenter or loosen the lid on one side, just a little, and let it finish. If you loosen the lid, you will want to move the bucket to the bathtub as it will probably make a mess.
lutherslagers
Well-Known Member
At this point I would switch your air lock to a blow off hose. If you have that much trub you may need to rack to a secondary after fermentation and crash cool it. The trub will settle to the bottom and then you can rack off the clear beer for kegging or bottling.
Lucky_Chicken
Well-Known Member
Welcome to HBT
What is your OG?
is your airlock plugged?
There are some people who don't separate trub and everyone get some in the primary it settles out and isnt a big deal... what you should be seeing is the krousin (thats probably spelled wrong) which is normal.
What is your OG?
is your airlock plugged?
There are some people who don't separate trub and everyone get some in the primary it settles out and isnt a big deal... what you should be seeing is the krousin (thats probably spelled wrong) which is normal.
Why do so many people talk about 'crash cooling' to beginners. You think everyone has a fridge they can put a 6 gallon bucket into. I've seen it several times in the past week. I've been brewing for many years and don't have one, don't see a need for one unless I decide to get into lagers (too many ales to do), and my wife would go crazy if I bought in another large piece of brewing dedicated equipment.
For the OP: No need to crash cool. It's a method to help clear a beer quickly, and can also help with dropping proteins. Just leave it be and it will settle on it's own. Don't worry about the crap on the side of the fermenter, if it stays where it is, it will be OK, if it drops back in, it will just fall to the bottom. Everything is sanitized before pitching to protect it early, and the alcohol will provide protection later.
ok thanks guys i put a hose into the grommet to have it blow off instead of the airlock.seems to be better so far. would a five gallon bucket be large enough for the blow off? i guess its the hops which were clogging the airlock.
its a belgian tripel. og 1.085 i think.
its a belgian tripel. og 1.085 i think.
+1
i've never cold crashed an ale before packaging and my beers are clear. in fact, most of them are clear going into the bottle/keg. if you ferment your beer at the right temps for an appropriate amount of time, there's no need to cold crash, IMO.
lutherslagers
Well-Known Member
Calder - He's in Pennsylvania... it's December... stick it outside or in the garage. The reason crash cooling is mentioned is because its an easy way to clear beer without gelatin, isinglass, or the like.
so is time
Lucky_Chicken
Well-Known Member
that should be plenty big enough! just make sure the liquid level is pretty low... wouldnt want it to draw back into your brew.
stevehardt
Well-Known Member
Another nOOB question...
If I am priming in liter PET bottles, and the kit calls for 2.5 tsps of table sugar per bottle, what would be the correct amount of dextrose (corn sugar)? I am measuring by volume and not weight, as I don't have a scale yet.
What are the advantages of priming with corn sugar over table sugar?
Thanks for your help. This is an awesome forum, and I've learned a ton
If I am priming in liter PET bottles, and the kit calls for 2.5 tsps of table sugar per bottle, what would be the correct amount of dextrose (corn sugar)? I am measuring by volume and not weight, as I don't have a scale yet.
What are the advantages of priming with corn sugar over table sugar?
Thanks for your help. This is an awesome forum, and I've learned a ton
cgenebrewer
Well-Known Member
OP, take some sanitized tubing that fits in hole where airlock is, and shove it in a bit. Take the other end, and put it in a bucket/bowl/doggie dish/beer mug/beer stein/waterproof boot/ or anything else that hols liquid, and fill it with sanitizer. Leave the end of thetube in this water containing device.
rest assured.
rest assured.
Lucky_Chicken
Well-Known Member
I believe this should be on its own thread?
Also there are lots of threads discussing the difference between using table sugar/ corn sugar... I havent noticed much difference
stevehardt
Well-Known Member
My bad...it should be. Still trying to figure out how to delete it from this thread.
Again, my bad...
Again, my bad...
got it sitting up two feet above the blow off bucket.
chickypad
lupulin shift victim
I would not rack this to a secondary so soon (actually I would not at all, but that's a different topic). A triple with that OG is going to need more time to finish. If you are going to secondary at least wait until you have a stable gravity (preferably longer). Forget about the crap in there, it's all going to settle out eventually.
my directions say to bottle after 6-8 days. unless i do a secondary fermentation then it say to add two weeks to the process.
jmprdood
Well-Known Member
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Directions on most kits are marginal - go with the advice you get here. Bottle once you get a steady FG over 3 days (some say 3 weeks in primary, minimum). Leave in bottles for a couple weeks to condition, longer for higher OG brews. Refridgerate for at least a couple days to let C02 absorb into solution.
Cheers!
Cheers!
my gravity now is 1.022. ive been reading online it should get down to between 1.012 to 1.020 does this sound correct? its been fermenting for 7 days now. og was 1.085. i wanna move this to a secondary fermentator when its time to. dont think its just time quite yet. thanks
OP - hard to say what the grav should be without knowing the yeast and the rest of the recipe. A general rule of thumb is FG is 1/4 OG, so a 1.080 will usually finish out about 1.020, assuming it doesn't get stuck and it is all malt, but a belgian triple uses candi sugar or similar with will ferment out all the way, so the 1.012 to 1.020 seems plausable, but again I'm guessing here based on typical. And just because the 1/4 OG to FG I mentioned is typical, that doesn't mean it always works out that way either.
MrManifesto
Well-Known Member
pauls said:
I'd just leave this one in the primary, honestly. I know the directions say to move it but many of us here do extended primaries. With that high of an OG I'd let it ride at least a month.
thats what everyones saying. but i didnt stain out the hops and such so there still in the fermenter mostly on the side of the bucket. i didnt know if i should go to a secondary because of that. or if it would be ok
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