Heating elements

[Grunner]

Hey all,

I've been reading and brewing silently in the shadows for a couple years now. I'm looking at going electric and wonder opinions on heating elements. I have been looking at the Keg King 2200w SS heating element. Any thoughts would be great. Also, opinions on one vs. two elements in a two tier system.

 

[Firewalker11]

I have three pots, two with elements in them and the Camco 5500W ripple design "Ultra Low Watt Density" uses 240V and is IMHO, the best there is. $27 at Amazon, standard 1" pipe thread, two wires, goes from tap temp to strike temp in under 30 minutes.

 

[augiedoggy]

this is a better choice with an all stainless base , https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple.htm the one mentioned above will usually turn nasty and rust in your kettle. I learned this from experience since I used the 4500w versions of the element above mentioned by firewalker11.

and if your only brewing 5-10 gallon batches I suggest using 4500w ripple elements they are slightly lower in watt density, they draw under 20 amps a piece making the wiring setup more economical and they are still plenty of power for brewing up to 20 gallons in reality... the electricbrewery.com has them in all stainless as well.

 

[passedpawn]

I haven't had much rusting with the Camco ripple elements. There is some rust right inside the base area, but it's no trouble in my brewing.

However, when I replace the 5500W elements I will use those SS 4500 elements. As auggie points out, they would work just fine for 10g batches. The initial ramp-up to temperature would be marginally slower, but for the boil pot, you won't be running the 5500 at 100% anyway, so the reduced wattage would be fine.

 

[augiedoggy]

I haven't had much rusting with the Camco ripple elements. There is some rust right inside the base area, but it's no trouble in my brewing.

However, when I replace the 5500W elements I will use those SS 4500 elements. As auggie points out, they would work just fine for 10g batches. The initial ramp-up to temperature would be marginally slower, but for the boil pot, you won't be running the 5500 at 100% anyway, so the reduced wattage would be fine.

When I recently pulled my element out of a 13 gallon stainless boil kettle to install into my new 16 gallon kettle I found a lot of rust behind and under the nut holding it in the kettle.... the surface had just turned black and didnt rust so I thought I was doing well untill I found the hidden rust everywhere.
the element on my HLT rusted badley from leaving water in it overnight so I replaced it with this brass based element ....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200909059093?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
which works very well... ULWD is unecessary for water..

 

[Firewalker11]

I pulled my Camco to see if it had rusted... Nope, many brews and looks good still.

That was the 4000w or 5500w element?

 

[augiedoggy]

I pulled my Camco to see if it had rusted... Nope, many brews and looks good still.

That was the 4000w or 5500w element?

4500w they are the same zinc coated steel base regardless. bothe are the same dimensions too... hence the 4500w having less watt density. I had over 50 brew sessions on mine.