Heating Element Won't Heat

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shyanny

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Upon testing my new control panel I found my heating element won't heat up. I have a 5500 watt 240 volt element that is receiving 220 volts at the terminals of the element but its not heating up. This is a new element never been used before. I tested the ohms reading and it read 11 ohms. I have no idea why it won't heat. Please help.
 
Is it running through a SSR? IIRC the SSR will "leak" some current which would show up as 220V over your element. (again this is if you have it on a SSR) check that your SSR is actually "on".
 
Is it running through a SSR? IIRC the SSR will "leak" some current which would show up as 220V over your element. (again this is if you have it on a SSR) check that your SSR is actually "on".


It is running through a 40 amp SSR which shows about 9 volts DC current going to the input and it shows 120 coming out but the light built into the SSR is not lighting up and the SSR isnt getting warm. But the fact remains that the element is reading 220. I don't see how it can show 220 volts with a good resistance check and not heat up. I do have another SSR i could try though.
 
Check the polarity on the 9VDC side.
Are you sure it is a DC signal SSR?

SSR's leak voltage . . . . period.

Best way to check a resistive load is with an amp meter.
An amp clamp is the best meter for that purpose.

'da Kid
 
It is running through a 40 amp SSR which shows about 9 volts DC current going to the input and it shows 120 coming out but the light built into the SSR is not lighting up and the SSR isnt getting warm. But the fact remains that the element is reading 220. I don't see how it can show 220 volts with a good resistance check and not heat up. I do have another SSR i could try though.

If the light on the SSR is not on I would say that the SSR is not on, check the DC polarity as ds kid said.
You can still 'see" volatge leaking through the SSR because they are a solid state switch - do not think of it like a physical switch where it is making contact or not. It is always connected but the cirucit just allows current to flow.
Best way I could explain it is to think about it like a valve in a full waterpipe - there is water on both sides of the valve but when it is closed nothing can flow - open the valve and the current can flow.
 
I would agree with everyone else here. The led on the relay illuminates when there is control voltage present within the range of input voltage.
 
The DC polarity was reversed. It took 5 seconds to fix. Thanks everyone for your input. It is up and running and I couldnt be more excited about my upcoming brew using this system.
 
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