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Glycol Pump for FTSs System

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Morrey

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The FTSs fermenter temp control system I use with a Glycol Chiller is for cooling only. For those familiar with this system, it uses a DC pump for glycol distribution, and that pump plugs directly into the DC port of the proprietary controller. If I expand my system to FTSs2 (adds heat) that means a good amount of expense to add the heating element and the dual port controller has to be changed out.

To prevent this I'll simply use an Inkbird to control the glycol pump but I'll need a new pump (reason for this post) shifting from DC to AC. Then I can use one of my Fermwraps or Heat Belts so the Inkbird will control both heat and cool in the seasons when my demand flip flops back and forth.

Does anyone use a converted system like this and can suggest the proper AC pump to use to pump glycol? The outlet hoses are 3/8" ID. Thanks!
 
The FTSs fermenter temp control system I use with a Glycol Chiller is for cooling only. For those familiar with this system, it uses a DC pump for glycol distribution, and that pump plugs directly into the DC port of the proprietary controller. If I expand my system to FTSs2 (adds heat) that means a good amount of expense to add the heating element and the dual port controller has to be changed out.

To prevent this I'll simply use an Inkbird to control the glycol pump but I'll need a new pump (reason for this post) shifting from DC to AC. Then I can use one of my Fermwraps or Heat Belts so the Inkbird will control both heat and cool in the seasons when my demand flip flops back and forth.

Does anyone use a converted system like this and can suggest the proper AC pump to use to pump glycol? The outlet hoses are 3/8" ID. Thanks!

You can use the same pump, it's pretty simple. Just take the FTS power supply and unplug from their custom STC-1000 and plug it directly into the pump using this adapter

Now, plug the power supply into your InkBird and let it control it. Works very well. This is exactly what I have done and works great.
 
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You can use the same pump, it's pretty simple. Just take the FTS power supply and unplug from their custom STC-1000 and plug it directly into the pump using this adapter

Now, plug the power supply into your InkBird and let it control it. Works very well. This is exactly what I have done and works great.

Darn...that's easy!

I may also add another AC pump for other uses that I don't have a pump for currently. Would one of those 180gph fountain pumps from HD be ok to submerge in a glycol/water bath?
 
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I picked up a submersible pump from Harbor Freight for $15 (after teh 20% off coupon online) and it seems to work.
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I am kind of hijacking my own thread here but it relates to using a heat belt under the neoprene jacket with the FTSs system. Is this safe?

Brew Tech uses a heat pad under the jacket on their FTSs2 heat/cool system, so I assume my heat belt is ok?
 
The FTSs fermenter temp control system I use with a Glycol Chiller is for cooling only. For those familiar with this system, it uses a DC pump for glycol distribution, and that pump plugs directly into the DC port of the proprietary controller. If I expand my system to FTSs2 (adds heat) that means a good amount of expense to add the heating element and the dual port controller has to be changed out.

To prevent this I'll simply use an Inkbird to control the glycol pump but I'll need a new pump (reason for this post) shifting from DC to AC. Then I can use one of my Fermwraps or Heat Belts so the Inkbird will control both heat and cool in the seasons when my demand flip flops back and forth.

Does anyone use a converted system like this and can suggest the proper AC pump to use to pump glycol? The outlet hoses are 3/8" ID. Thanks!
I use the main pump found in my chiller. Most chillers have a powerful pump in them but ssbrewtechs chiller is missing this pump ironically since the same chiller is available from the manufacturer for less money with the pump built in.. go figure.
I use a cpvc plastic manifold and 24v dc soleniod valves to open whichever of the four ports is calling for coolant for that conical at the same time as the 240v is supplied to the chiller pump.... I used to control all four with stc 1000 temp controllers but have since moved to brucontrol for more control and graphs.. I also use orange silicone 24v dc heater straps wrapped around my conicals for heat if needed and it automatically switches between the two.

these heatbelts are fine with the neoprene as well.
 
Are you planning on using your glycol chiller AND the heater simultaneously? If not, you could get a small aquarium heater from Walmart or the like for about $10 and put that in the glycol reservoir in the cool months and then take it out and plug in the glycol chiller in the warm months.

That way the same pump is used the whole time and you just have to switch your FTSS v1 from hot to cold setting or vice verse.
 
Are you planning on using your glycol chiller AND the heater simultaneously? If not, you could get a small aquarium heater from Walmart or the like for about $10 and put that in the glycol reservoir in the cool months and then take it out and plug in the glycol chiller in the warm months.

That way the same pump is used the whole time and you just have to switch your FTSS v1 from hot to cold setting or vice verse.
during a fermentation process there are times when a little heat might be beneficial to get more activity out of the yeast towards the end and also times when chilling is needed in the same fermentor and batch... When the yeast really take off you still need a chiller for proper control even in the winter months unless you dont mind the phenols produced at higher temps by the yeast... for some styles its ok but not desirable for most.

If a person is going to spend all that money on a temp control stainless fermenter its best to actually have real temp control to take advantage of all it can offer right?
 
Are you planning on using your glycol chiller AND the heater simultaneously? If not, you could get a small aquarium heater from Walmart or the like for about $10 and put that in the glycol reservoir in the cool months and then take it out and plug in the glycol chiller in the warm months.

That way the same pump is used the whole time and you just have to switch your FTSS v1 from hot to cold setting or vice verse.

Unfortunately I am in the fickle southeast coastal zone where in certain seasons you need a jacket in the morning, shed that mid-morning, and need shorts in the afternoon. Drives the fermenter wild but I set the hysteresis on the Inkbird so I wont see rapid cycling back and forth between heat and cool.

I don't have a season here that I need heat only, that season is heat and cool. In the summer I'll only use cooling, but around Nov, heat comes into play along with cooling.
 
these heatbelts are fine with the neoprene as well.

I was hoping to hear that. I don't know if Brew Tech would be protective of their system and say no don't do that, you need to use OUR heat system only. But what's the difference I figure if the heat output or wattage is similar.
 
I was hoping to hear that. I don't know if Brew Tech would be protective of their system and say no don't do that, you need to use OUR heat system only. But what's the difference I figure if the heat output or wattage is similar.
exactly as long as the wattage vs coverage is reasonable..
 
Are the orange silicone heat pads you mentioned from Brew Tech?

no... im not using them on my conicals with neoprene currently but I used them in the past on a keg with a neoprene jacket and it didnt hurt it at all. I use foil face bubble wrap for insulation on my conicals.
 
I am kind of hijacking my own thread here but it relates to using a heat belt under the neoprene jacket with the FTSs system. Is this safe?

Brew Tech uses a heat pad under the jacket on their FTSs2 heat/cool system, so I assume my heat belt is ok?

I use reptile tape (called flexwatt) and that works very well. It's extremely thin, fits well under the sleeve, and cheap. It only heats into the high 90's, so that's perfect as well.

Assuming that the heat belt doesn't get too hot in a single spot, it should be fine. I like the flexwatt stuff because it's larger surface area dissipates the heat such that there are no hotspots.

I got mine here at Reptile Basics. Two strips of 4" tape, 2' long works perfect.
 
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