Gas regulator recommendation for three Low pressure LP burners

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michaellcoates

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So here is what I Have.

single tier HERMS with three banjo 14 burners with Low Pressure adjustable orfice, 3 Honeywell 8200 24v valvues. And my regulator is a MR Heater 2 stage LP regulator 1/2 PSI.

Testing out my three burners today and everytime I would ignite all three, the flame and gas would kick off completely. Am I just not getting enough pressure from the 2 step regulator to power all three at a time? Do I need a high pressure regulator in order to get the three running instead?

Figure I would ask here before I dive into the research. Thanks.
 
Sounds like the excess flow protection device in the tank is tripping. You may need to use two tanks to get all three burners to run on high at the same time. Or, switch to using 100 lb tanks that don't have the protection device built in. Or, don't turn them all on high at the same time - you wouldn't normally do that when brewing, right?
 
I won't normally have them all on and high no, but want the ability to if I need. Thanks for the advice, didnt know about the excess flow protecting in the tank.
 
I dont know what orfice size u have there but u maybe overloading your regulator...if it was the same mr heater reg i saw it had a max or 160 kbtu..i have seen those bg14 orficed out to 70-80kbtu..
 
"Originally" doesn't matter. With the low pressure orifice on LP gas, those same BG14 burners are down in the 60KBTU range - just like the ones on the page you linked...

Cheers!

Great, thanks. So sounds like I need something that can support at least 180kbus. The regulator I have says non adjustable in the description but I see an adjustable screw on the top? If I'm only 20kbus off is it worth messing with?
 
Can't find a dual-stage LP regulator on the mrheater site - but I can find all kinds of different looking dual-stage LP regulators being sold that are claimed to be mrheater. Interesting.

But I would assume a regulator sold as non-adjustable is just that, screw or no screw.

In any case, I doubt the regulator per se is the root cause of a complete shut-down of gas. For that I believe reynolds5520 might have it right: your tank may have a safety device that is tripping when you have high demand on it. I don't think you can cure that with a regulator tweak - or even outright change...

Cheers!
 
Thanks, I'm grabbing a 100 lbs tank tomorrow to test it with my current regulator. Well see. Thanks for everyone help.
 
Ok..those orfices look like they are they are ment to be sold with those 60 k burners..im guessing they are set pretty close to that demand..there is no excess flow valve built into the tank valve..they only have a float valve to prevent overfilling and a check valve to prevent the valve from releasing fuel if nothing is connected to the tank...there are excess flow valves on the qcc connectors that are provide with some regulators (black,green,or red tank connectors) they have a btu limit stamped on them...
 
You may also be having a problem with the tank connector. If you have the big plastic acme nut that connects to the tank what color is it? They also are btu rated. I can't remember but black is somewhere under 100k btu. Green is 200k btu and red is like 500k. Not sure which mr heater reg you have but most rv regs are 180-200 k btu. These are the most likely culprits.
As far as the adjustment on the reg, low pressure regs are a little bit adjustable. They are preset to 11" wc but have an adjustment under the removable cap. You need a nanometer to check the adjustment. My buddy is a furnace guy and he recommends going to about 14" wc so you aren't starving the gas valves when you have more than one running. The gas valves are ok with a little over 11" and will regulate down to 11 on the output side.
 
You may also be having a problem with the tank connector. If you have the big plastic acme nut that connects to the tank what color is it? They also are btu rated. I can't remember but black is somewhere under 100k btu. Green is 200k btu and red is like 500k. Not sure which mr heater reg you have but most rv regs are 180-200 k btu. These are the most likely culprits.
As far as the adjustment on the reg, low pressure regs are a little bit adjustable. They are preset to 11" wc but have an adjustment under the removable cap. You need a nanometer to check the adjustment. My buddy is a furnace guy and he recommends going to about 14" wc so you aren't starving the gas valves when you have more than one running. The gas valves are ok with a little over 11" and will regulate down to 11 on the output side.

Amazing, thanks a lot
 
...there is no excess flow valve built into the tank valve..
...there are excess flow valves on the qcc connectors that are provide with some regulators (black,green,or red tank connectors) they have a btu limit stamped on them...

Dang, that is what I thought until I tried to make sure before writing. Several web sites talked about excess flow protection in the tank, and we all know that if it isn't true, they can't say it on the internet. :D They must have meant AT the tank, rather than IN the tank.

Thanks for bringing me back to reality.
 
Ok, I got bit by the same informational misdirection and thought the safety valve was in the tank when it is indeed within the Acme nut.

Fwiw, here's a cool illustration showing the Acme nut on the left with the spring-loaded ball that shuts off the gas when the spring is overwhelmed by "excessive" gas flow...

6895952-0-large.jpg


Cheers!
 
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