Gas Manifold Plug?

[agentbud]

On most gas manifolds there is an inlet on one end, 2 or more outlet valves in the middle and a plug on the other end. I assume the plug is there so that you can swap the inlet to the other side if needed. However, can you also remove the plug and screw in one more outlet valve on the end instead? Or does the plug serve some other purpose that requires it to be there?
I have a 2-outlet manifold but need three. I have an extra valve and was wondering if it works ok to remove the plug and screw the valve in to the end.

 

[day_trippr]

If you are referring to manifolds built using hollow aluminum beams there is that simple need to plug the end hole
Anyway, you should be able to add another shut-off valve as long as you respect the thread size and direction...

Cheers!

 

[agentbud]

Manifolds like this...

 

[GilSwillBasementBrews]

I think you’d be fine. Like day tripper said as long as your valve is same threading.

 

[Golddiggie]

IME, those are all 1/4" NPT thread. So simply get the shutoff fitting you like, remove the plug, use PLENTY of Teflon tape on the fitting you're installing, and wrench away. I've done this several times. Either adding a valve on the end of a manifold, or changing out the valves on other ones.

I found it's easier to do this if you have a good bench vise to hold the manifold. Mine is bolted to a 1/2" thick piece of steel, that's C-clamped to the bench (so it's movable). Just so that I can move it to other surfaces/benches as needed.

I also only use the valves with MFL fittings. The inlets are also MFL so it's easier to change things as needed.

 

[micraftbeer]

A lot of these glue the end plug in (glue on the threads before screwing it in), so you might not be able to unscrew it. You won't know until you try.

And since you'll have this out of your keezer, if you do get it swapped out, do yourself a favor and do the leak check with the manifold under water. Very easy to spot leaks, easier than sitting soap water on it later and trying to collect runoff.

 

[Golddiggie]

A lot of these glue the end plug in (glue on the threads before screwing it in), so you might not be able to unscrew it. You won't know until you try.

And since you'll have this out of your keezer, if you do get it swapped out, do yourself a favor and do the leak check with the manifold under water. Very easy to spot leaks, easier than sitting soap water on it later and trying to collect runoff.

I've never had any plugs, or fittings, "glued" into a gas manifold. The only chance they have of making these perm would be with red Loctite. Even then, you can defeat it with heat. At most I've seen paste thread treatments on the fittings. Which will let go when you start using a wrench.

Either way, do yourself a HUGE favor and get a bench vise if you don't already have one. I'm using an old 4" unit that was my father's (so at least 40 years old now).

 

[micraftbeer]

Ok, I have one. And I recall a vendor that sells customizable gas manifolds point out that unlike other manufacturers, they use tape and not glue on the plugs.

I will admit that I didn't buy a bunch from different shots and try them, I only have my personal experience combined with that vendor's claim they were doing something different.

Either way, as I said, you'll know when you go to remove it.

 

[day_trippr]

There's a decent chance that this "glue" was actually conventional plumbers thread sealant. For example, for things that tape isn't the best solution I use Rectorseal "Tru Blue" especially with iron gas piping, and have also used it to reseal CO2 gas beam fittings that dunk testing showed leaks in taped joints. It's what my pro gas piper friend uses as well...

Cheers!

 

[micraftbeer]

Picture showing the vice marks on the body of the manifold, and the fully rounded off corners from my wrench, unable to remove the barbed fitting and instead just rounded off the corners of the brass fitting.

 

[day_trippr]

Ooof. That poor fitting looks like a bowser worked on it
Anyway...heat that fitting up and it'll spin right out...

 

[Golddiggie]

All the manifolds I have are from Keg Connection. Some from 2011, others from around 2015/16. None of them had "glued" in fittings.
I've also used the Teflon tape on the fittings as I change them (or work on the manifold for whatever reason) and never had one leak. Of course, I learned how much to apply to get there (more than you would probably think). I don't tend to mess around with the manifolds all that much. Last time was due to getting the keezer setup and needing to make some changes (chaining some low port count together, or replacing the plug with another valve).

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Picture showing the vice marks on the body of the manifold, and the fully rounded off corners from my wrench, unable to remove the barbed fitting and instead just rounded off the corners of the brass fitting. View attachment 738445

Did you use a box-end wrench, an open-end wrench, or a crescent (adjustable) wrench? Always use the tightest-fitting box-end. 6-pt preferred (but they are rare) otherwise 12-point. Or even a 6-pt deep socket would have worked. You're into torch/heat & vise-grips at this point.

 

[Golddiggie]

Did you use a box-end wrench, an open-end wrench, or a crescent (adjustable) wrench? Always use the tightest-fitting box-end. 6-pt preferred (but they are rare) otherwise 12-point. Or even a 6-pt deep socket would have worked. You're into torch/eat & vide-grips at this point.

Heating the fitting up and then using a pair of ViseGrips would remove that fitting now (so it can be replaced).

I have plenty of wrenches, and sockets, to use for these things. Never had an issue with using the correct size wrench. Then again, I have a rather large tool cabinet now, and actually need to get another one due to having more tools than will properly fit.

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Heating the fitting up and then using a pair of ViseGrips would remove that fitting now (so it can be replaced).

I have plenty of wrenches, and sockets, to use for these things. Never had an issue with using the correct size wrench. Then again, I have a rather large tool cabinet now, and actually need to get another one due to having more tools than will properly fit.

There's all kinds of folks on HT! Some with lots of tools and experience, and others with, well, not so much!

 

[Golddiggie]

There's all kinds of folks on HT! Some with lots of tools and experience, and others with, well, not so much!

IIRC, the main tool cabinet I have is over 4' wide, two pieces (top and bottom section) that's mostly hand tools with the bottom (tall) draws with cordless tools in them. I have other tool storage items for things like milling machine items (end mills, items to secure pieces, calipers, edge finders, etc.) plus another one under that for grinders and related items (including pneumatic tools). I plan to get the cabinet set that was my father's this weekend (it's been at my sister's place for years) and use that in the garage, next to the milling machine, for items related to that. It will open up the other tool chest for other things.

Most of the tools I currently have on location are ones I've bought over the years. There are some that were my father's. Including Snap-On hand tools. I'll be bringing the rest of his tools home with me this weekend with that cabinet set (might be 2' wide).

I'll need to repair the top cabinet/box since the hinge was damaged by my BIL years back. I'm also planning on cleaning it up and giving it a paint job after I've moved (and have a space setup for things like that).

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Manifolds like this...

I have a manifold that looks like that and I recently added one of these check valves: Shut-Off Check Valve | MoreBeer

For me it was a very easy swap. I needed to add another line to support a pair of stacked 10L Torpedo kegs.

 

[Golddiggie]

I have a manifold that looks like that and I recently added one of these check valves: Shut-Off Check Valve | MoreBeer

For me it was a very easy swap. I needed to add another line to support a pair of stacked 10L Torpedo kegs.

I use the MFL version of that shut-off valve on my manifolds.