I second the fact that this is an extremely helpful forum. It's rare to see bad attitudes here, and the advice is usually excellent.
Doing an all-grain batch can seem intimidating at first, but once you know what you're doing it's a piece of cake.
First, the water:
Use an online calculator such as this one (below) to calculate how much water you'll need for the strike and sparge, and what temperature to heat it to. This recipe calls for mashing at 150 degrees for 60 minutes. You'll actually have to heat the water to more than 152 so that when you stir it in with your grains, it will rest at 150. The water at this stage is referred to as your "strike water". Once you put it in, as someone else on this forum said, "stir it like it owes you money." After one hour you are going to drain this water (wort) from your mashtun. Be sure to collect the first quart or so and pour it gently back into the mashtun. This is because the first little bit coming out will be cloudy with bits of grain in it. After that it'll be significantly 'cleaner'. The next portion of heated water to go into the mash tun is called your 'sparge water'. Generally you want to aim for around 167F temperature in the mash tun. The calculator linked below doesn't tell how hot to make the water to reach that temperature, but if you aim for the low-mid 170s you'll probably get in the right ball park. The recipe says to aim for a sparge temp of 170, but I've heard that you don't want to overshoot 170 as it'll increase your chances of releasing tannins from the grain which will taste unpleasant in the beer. Again, stirr it like it owes you money. Let that rest for another 10 minutes before draining, and following the same procedure of re-circulating the first quart or so. After it's drained you can squeeze the grains (I use a firm pitcher, press down and roll the grains towards the spiggot). No pint left behind!
A few tips you may find helpful:
1) Boil a kettle and have it hot and handy in case you missed your mash temperature and need to get it up to temperature pronto. I've read that the first few minutes of the mash are most crucial, and therefore you want to get your temperature as close to correct as possible. This requires a thermometer that can give you an accurate reading quickly. Similarly, have a bit of cold water on hand in case you overshoot your mash temp. The online calculator below is good at getting your temp within the ballpark, but everyone's equipment is different, so you won't know how best to adjust it's temperature recommendations until you've done a few batches.
2) You may wish to have a blanket to wrap around your mashtun to better hold the temperature for the hour long mash. While I don't think this is as important as getting your mash temperature right within the first couple of minutes, the more you get the details right, the better likely is the final product.
3) I recommend putting the milled grains in your mashtun BEFORE you add your strike water, especially if your tun is made of plastic. The plastic can warp and bend (and at certain very high temps can even leach plastic into the wort). Having the grain in there already to immediately cool the water to the desired temp will reduce those risks.
It's a little bit of a balancing act, but once you practice it a couple of times, you'll have a good idea how to adjust your numbers, and when to start heating your sparge water, etc.
The hops:
The time in minutes referred to in recipes for hops, is always inficating how long that particular hop should be in the boil. So for example:
Hop A: 60 mins
Hob B: 40 mins
Hop C: 10 mins
Hops D: 0 mins
If you are going to boil the wort for an hour then 'HOP A' would go in immediately once the wort starts boiling and stay in the wort until you're done. HOP B would go in 20 minutes later and stay in for another 40 mins. HOP C would go in at 50 mins (10 minutes before the end). HOP D would go in as you're turning off the flame. In this case you could throw the lid on a let those hops sit in there for a few minutes before you start to cool the wort. Leave all the hops in the beer until you transfer it to the primary fermenter in which case you'll do your reasonable best to remove any large hop debris (use a collander, or perhaps your kettle has a screen). Don't be paranoid though, a bit of hops going into the fermenter won't cause any serious harm.
In the case of your recipe above, there's only one hop addition to make, and you'd do it as soon as your wort boils (or after the hot break which is almost immediate on boil) and then continue the boil for 60 minutes.
Last, if you're using an immersion wort chiller, then be surge to submerge it into the boiling wort about 15 minutes before the end of the boil. This will ensure that any bacteria that goes into the beer along with the chiller get killed by being boiled to death for 15 minutes.
Link for water:
http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php
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