Brewed my first batch yesterday (Kama citra from NB). Things went pretty well with the exception of a couple noob mistakes. I was just looking for a couple thoughts on these. First mistake was not allowing enough water for proper boil off. I did a full boil and was close to 6 gals. And ended up with 4.5 giving hydro reading of 1.060 rather than 1.050. Second: pitched the yeast (safale us05) at 80 degrees before moving to temp controlled ferm. Chamber. Given the high pitch temp. should I not rack to secondary? I really want to brew another batch as soon as possible.
First brewday complete, already hooked!
- Thread starter Sauvy10
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
Congrats. Adding water to the boil is fine, or boiled water thereafter, to get the right volume. You want to boil about 15% off, I have read in multiple places.
Secondary is unnecessary, it is just to clear the beer, which can be done in primary if you're careful when siphoning into the bottling bucket. Pitching at high temp might cause more esters, not much to do about that once it's done.
Secondary is unnecessary, it is just to clear the beer, which can be done in primary if you're careful when siphoning into the bottling bucket. Pitching at high temp might cause more esters, not much to do about that once it's done.
Will I still be fine to rack to the secondary after ample time so I can get my next brew rolling soon. When I checked the primary before work this morning the airlock wasn't bubbling yet and the fermometer was at 70. I dropped the Johnson control down some and when I got back from work (about the 24 hour mark) fermometer was reading 68, airlock bubbling about 20 times per min. Now at about 60 per min. I couldn't get the temp down any further with the wort chiller yesterday and didn't have an ice bath ready. In hind sight I wish I would've covered the kettle and got one ready. Will the beer benefit from sitting on the primary the whole time? Thanks for the insight!
dmbobo
Member
Congrats on your first brew!
I just finished my third batch, and I found it hard to wait. Like others here will probably tell you, its important not to rush the process.
That being said, it may be beneficial for you to invest in another ale pail or bucket, if you are really looking forward to brewing again. I've found that having a second bucket allows me to work on my next brew, effectively keeping me away from what I have fermenting already.
I just finished my third batch, and I found it hard to wait. Like others here will probably tell you, its important not to rush the process.
That being said, it may be beneficial for you to invest in another ale pail or bucket, if you are really looking forward to brewing again. I've found that having a second bucket allows me to work on my next brew, effectively keeping me away from what I have fermenting already.
dustinolsen84
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2014
- Messages
- 51
- Reaction score
- 1
That is awesome! Brewing is hands down one of the most enjoyable hobby someone could have.
I have been brewing for 10 years and a couple of things might help you.
1. I would buy some irish moss and toss in a tsp at the end of the boil. That will ensure a clear beer.
2. I always secondary ferment. Some people don't go through the trouble, but I want a clean brew and that helps out. Make sure you are using Starsan and get it clean.
Happy Brewing!
I have been brewing for 10 years and a couple of things might help you.
1. I would buy some irish moss and toss in a tsp at the end of the boil. That will ensure a clear beer.
2. I always secondary ferment. Some people don't go through the trouble, but I want a clean brew and that helps out. Make sure you are using Starsan and get it clean.
Happy Brewing!
tooldudetool
Well-Known Member
Secondary is optional, but why would a high temp pitch have anything to do with it?
As mentioned above, you can always add water to get to the volume and gravity you want, most extract brewers do anyway (partial volume boil). That is awesome you have temperature controlled fermentation, that makes a huge difference and most beginners don't have that. I would suggest setting your temp controller to 65-66 though, as the temp of the fermenting beer inside is likely a couple degrees higher than the fermometer shows. Mid sixties vs high sixties tends to make cleaner beers for most ale yeasts, which you want with a pale ale. Also realize your recipe will be a bit unbalanced now with that much of an increase in gravity, but not bitterness. So it will be a bit stronger in alcohol and malt, and less so in bitterness, either way you are going to love it, because you made it! Homebrewing is awesome because you get to drink your lessons, and learn from them at the same time
And yeah, just buy more buckets dude! $15 a pop, get two and then don't worry about it. The beer really only needs to stay temp controlled for the first 3-5 days, then you can pull it out to room temp and put a new fermenting batch in. And repeat!
As mentioned above, you can always add water to get to the volume and gravity you want, most extract brewers do anyway (partial volume boil). That is awesome you have temperature controlled fermentation, that makes a huge difference and most beginners don't have that. I would suggest setting your temp controller to 65-66 though, as the temp of the fermenting beer inside is likely a couple degrees higher than the fermometer shows. Mid sixties vs high sixties tends to make cleaner beers for most ale yeasts, which you want with a pale ale. Also realize your recipe will be a bit unbalanced now with that much of an increase in gravity, but not bitterness. So it will be a bit stronger in alcohol and malt, and less so in bitterness, either way you are going to love it, because you made it! Homebrewing is awesome because you get to drink your lessons, and learn from them at the same time
And yeah, just buy more buckets dude! $15 a pop, get two and then don't worry about it. The beer really only needs to stay temp controlled for the first 3-5 days, then you can pull it out to room temp and put a new fermenting batch in. And repeat!
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
Secondary is optional, but why would a high temp pitch have anything to do with it?
As mentioned above, you can always add water to get to the volume and gravity you want, most extract brewers do anyway (partial volume boil). That is awesome you have temperature controlled fermentation, that makes a huge difference and most beginners don't have that. I would suggest setting your temp controller to 65-66 though, as the temp of the fermenting beer inside is likely a couple degrees higher than the fermometer shows. Mid sixties vs high sixties tends to make cleaner beers for most ale yeasts, which you want with a pale ale. Also realize your recipe will be a bit unbalanced now with that much of an increase in gravity, but not bitterness. So it will be a bit stronger in alcohol and malt, and less so in bitterness, either way you are going to love it, because you made it! Homebrewing is awesome because you get to drink your lessons, and learn from them at the same time
And yeah, just buy more buckets dude! $15 a pop, get two and then don't worry about it. The beer really only needs to stay temp controlled for the first 3-5 days, then you can pull it out to room temp and put a new fermenting batch in. And repeat!
Should I add more hops to the dry hop bill to balance out? I have extra
.5 oz of centennial not sure how those would go with dry hopping as they were the bittering hops
grittanomyces
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2014
- Messages
- 170
- Reaction score
- 26
Sure, if you think it will go well with the flavors in your beer and the others in your dry-hop, go nuts.
Centennial is a dual purpose hop, meaning it's suitable for both bittering and flavor/aroma. As long as a hop is said to have aroma characteristics, it is always okay to add whichever ones you think will be good in your beer.
Bittering is where I would be mindful of what's a "clean bittering hop" as that can have a much more detrimental effect on your beer if you choose the wrong one... Even ones like citra that are said to be clean, myself and others have found to be a little harsh. I use Magnum almost exclusively now for higher AA beers like an IPA.
Similar threads
