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arringtonbp

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I am going to make the irish red ale from the extract kit over at northern brewer.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/...tract-ale-kits/irish-red-ale-extract-kit.html


I have a few questions before I begin though.

1. I have two 6.5 gallon bucket fermenters. Is this adequate for primary and secondary fermentation? Or would it be best to get a better bottle for secondary?

2. I am going to use nottingham ale yeast. Do I need a starter? Do I need to rehydrate?

3. What are the most important things to watch out for when extract brewing? (e.g. boiling times, when to switch from primary to secondary, when to bottle, bottle bombs?, etc...)
 
1. you should be fine with 2 6.5 gallon buckets. If given the choice a 5 gallon bucket would be better to reduce the amount of head space but the 6.5 gallon bucket will be fine. Many people on these forums choose to not transfer to a secondary because of added risk or oxidation and infection plus the added work involved. So far I have not racked to a secondary everything come out real good.

2. I'm of no help on this question. I have only brewed 3 batches so far and only used liquid yeast.

3. The most important thing (in my opinion) in brewing you first batch is cleaning and sanitizing your equipment. If I had to choose a second it would be controlling your fermentation temps

Good luck with the 1st batch and let us know how it turns out. :mug:
 
1. Yes, it's fine - or just do the whole thing in the primary.

2. Nope

3. Sanitation/Patience
 
1. I personally used a carboy for secondary fermentation, but I've seen several people use buckets for primary and secondary without any issues. I probably wouldn't use a bucket for any long term aging though. Now, I say I "used" a carboy. After trying some friends' beers and looking at this forum, I now subscribe to the 3-4 week primary and then straight to the keg or bottle (barring lagers and some other specialty stuff).

2. Typically the cell count for dry yeast is pretty good and doesn't need a starter, but I don't think it would hurt. Check the yeast package, because some yeast manufacturers actually say to not use a starter. But yes, I would rehydrate the yeast.

3. Sanitation, sanitation, sanitation! Make sure everything is cleaned and sanitized. That's one of the biggest things to watch out for. As for when to transfer, rely on multiple checks of your hydrometer to determine when you're ready to go from primary to secondary (if you decide to do a secondary). Usually a couple weeks after secondary you can bottle.

My first was an Irish Red, and I loved it. Just have fun with it and enjoy!
 
So if I decide to do the whole thing in primary, should I just add up the primary + secondary fermenting times (because I'm using a kit)? So for example if the kit says 2 weeks primary 2 weeks secondary I have 4 weeks in primary instead, then directly to bottling?

Ultimately, I guess the amount of time is dependent on when the fermentation stops (hydrometer readings are the same for some time?)
 
My answer to question 3 is to agree with sanitation.

The other very important thing is temperatures.

You need to get the proper temperatures in the brew process to get the proper flavors. Also important is fermenting within the range that is proper for your yeast strain.

I did the Irish Red Ale kit and let the fermentation temps get too high the first day and a half. The initial flavor was what I described as sour, probably fusel alcohols. I let it go 2 weeks in primary and 4 weeks in secondary. There was still a little off flavor at bottling. After 3 weeks bottle conditioning the beer was very good. I am not sure it would still be an Irish Red ale but it is still getting better. But then again I am now down to 10 bottles left. I am saving a 6 pack for another month or more.
 
I will definitely rehydrate then. What is the overall process from the point of primary to bottling then?

Correct me if I am wrong:
Primary for 4 weeks (or is it until the hydrometer reading is steady for a couple days?)
move over to a second bucket and add priming sugar
bottle - wait 3 weeks at 70 degrees F
Refrigerate 2 days
Drink
 
The hydrometer reading can be stable for 3 days after only 1 week - but still, let it sit another 2 or 3 weeks after for a better taste. The yeast will clean up after their sugar orgy.

Priming sugar should be mixed with water and boiled first - then rack your beer over the cooled sugar water and gently swirl to mix it up.

I generally use 1 loose cup of priming sugar with 2 cups water for a 5G batch.
 
My one question about skipping secondary is if the beer has enough time to clear up in 4 weeks or if it is cloudy still.
 
I will definitely rehydrate then. What is the overall process from the point of primary to bottling then?

Correct me if I am wrong:
Primary for 4 weeks (or is it until the hydrometer reading is steady for a couple days?)
move over to a second bucket and add priming sugar
bottle - wait 3 weeks at 70 degrees F
Refrigerate 2 days
Drink

Right. make your priming sugar solution and let it cool then put it in your bottling bucket. Siphon it the beer along the side of the bucket at the bottom so it makes a vortex. Stir it gently after it has all transferred, no splashing to keep down aeration and to mix the solution thoroughly. Then fill the bottles.

I can't wait the full 3 weeks so after at least 1 week I chill one bottle to try. Then I wait depending on how the first one garbed up. Of the 4 batches I have done 1 was ready at 1 1/2 weeks, the rest took 2 1/2 +.

They may also get even better if you wait even longer after refrigerating. I have not been very successful waiting here either.
 
It will have enough time to clarify if you leave it for 4 weeks. You may want to use irish moss/whirlfloc (don't know if the kit comes with it???). It will also clarify even more after sitting in the fridge for awhile.
 
Most important thing to watch for for extract I would think would be boil overs. Right after adding LME or DME it will freaking go crazy so be ready to drop the heat some. Really the sanitizing comes after the boil as boiling really is sanitizing. For your yeast I would follow the kits instructions. They should say whether to rehydrate or dry pitch. If there are no instructions in the kit the yeast pack may very well have instructions on it. I would lean toward rehydrate though as I did a kit this weekend that the kit called for dry pitching the packet but on the packet it called for rehydrating the yeast. I decided to rehydrate.
 
This is all great information. So far, I have only done a one gallon batch of cider (and I have a 6 gallon batch of cider in secondary, hopefully finishing by halloween). I never have been a huge fan of cider, but I got into it because I figured beer would be more complicated. Now I'm moving on to beer.

Do I need to sanitize the pot that I boil the wort in?
Also, how much irish moss goes in a 5 gallon batch?
 
Do I need to sanitize the pot that I boil the wort in?
Also, how much irish moss goes in a 5 gallon batch?

No, you don't need to sanitize the pot. Boiling in and of itself sanitizes the pot. For the irish moss, I use Whirlfloc, which is basically irish moss in tablet form. You just add a tablet to the batch the last 10-15 minutes of the boil.
 
Thank you guys very much. Hopefully I will start this up soon and have some beer around Thanksgiving or the holidays.
 

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