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sbittner79

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So my fiance and I have been brewing for about 2 years now. We have done all grain (probably around 10 batches in those 2 years) with the typical cooler mash tun set up. We have wanted to upgrade our system so we purchased a pump, 15 gallon pot and decided that we would give BIAB a try. Another upgrade that we made is that we finally got a water filter for our water. All this comes into play...don't worry.

We have done 3 batches in the last week with BIAB. Two batches were small 2.5 gallon and the last one was a 5 gallon recipe. All three batches are not fermenting ANYTHING like all of our other beers. We are using the same yeast brands that we have previously. I am rarely getting any steady bubbles in my bubbler. My first batch went from a 1.07 to a 1.03 in a week so it is doing something....but I find it odd that I am not getting much "activity" in my carboys with the fermentation.

Here is a quick rundown of what we are doing. Filtered water into the pot, bring up to temp, add grains in bag and recirculate with pump, Recirculate for the same time that I would have let the grains sit in cooler. I am getting the correct OG that my recipes are calling for. Lift bag out, drain briefly, bring to boil and follow hop addition as per schedule....seems pretty normal to me unless I am missing something.

Why is it not fermenting the same and is it something I should even be worried about? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
 
If you hit your gravity, the only thing I can think of is that you mashed too high and don't have enough fermentable sugars. But if I really had to guess, I'd say it's a yeast problem. With a healthy pitch, even a 1.070 beer should be done in a week.
 
I have actually used three different brands of yeast every time. Brew smith actually calls for 2 week ferment which I found odd. I will keep a close eye out but I was not sure if this was a normal thing with BIAB.
 
Beersmith has some defaults, which needs to be changed to fit your equipment and processes. Biab is just a way to mash, it shouldn't have any affect on your fermentation schedule or fermentation rate.

My guess is either yeast practices, or fermentation temps. Could also be the airlock, or not a good seal on a bucket lid, but you're using carboys so that's less likely imo.
 
Oxygenating the same way? Monitoring mash temps the same? If you had a mash tun I'm not sure I would have switched but since you've taken the leap I'd ask for specifics of each brew. Mash temps. Grain bill. Fermentation temps. Yeast and was it re pitched or fresh.

A 1.070 beer would probably always finish around 1.030 if you don't have a starter or two pitches of yeast packs/vials to finish lower.
 
I disagree durty. There's not reason a 1.070 wort would finish 1.030 unless you get a stuck fermentation, more likely is maybe 5 points higher than intended tops. I can't see it going to 1.030 instead of say 1.014 or something, that's a big difference.
 
I disagree durty. There's not reason a 1.070 wort would finish 1.030 unless you get a stuck fermentation, more likely is maybe 5 points higher than intended tops. I can't see it going to 1.030 instead of say 1.014 or something, that's a big difference.

Could a stuck fermentation be caused by not pitching enough yeast? I think white labs and wyeast both say to pitch into 1.064ish wort. Hitting 57% attenuation would lead me to believe it would be under pitching but others would say something else.

sbittner79 you could try rousing the yeast and warming it up depending on the fermentation temps to see if it will drop.

Without knowing specifics of the yeast and brew it is harder to help. If you were pitching English ale yeast from white labs it could be the yeast.
 
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