Fellow Divers, DIR for Homebrewers?

[lil_mac]

Fellow Brewing Divers…lend me your brewbrains.

I learned the hard way when I 1st started diving. I had the overpriced snorkel and cool new BCD and aluminum 80. It took me a couple years to switch up my gear to DIR. Simplifying but retaining the essential requirements that will last a lifetime.

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Examples: I don’t want to buy a air integrated computer when a Brass SPG is just fine and is more reliable. (does this apply to standard thermometer over digital?)

Are there DIR equipment essentials for the Homebrewer? I do not want to re-buy the better brew gear later.

Did I open a can of worms?

Thanks…Lil_Mac

 

[mrcastellino]

I dont know how many other divers frequent these forums so for the sake of everyone else (i.e. non-divers) ill clarify that DIR refers to 'Doing It Right'. Applied to homebrewing I dont know if its a concept that can be as easily laid out as it is for diving. There are so many variables that come to homebrewing....ie. are you doing extract, pm, or all grain etc. that makes a 'one size fits all' difficult to work.

I think there is something to be said about the KISS mentality for sure... but regardless you need to first define how you are going to brew, in what capacity etc. I dont think anyone wants to re-buy equipment unncessarily but if you go all out ....an all stainless HERMS setup...for 5 gallons of brew...only to find out you would like to be doing 20 gallons with a different approach...you might have been better keeping it cheap initially till u got your feet wet.

People brew amazing beer with very simple setups. Grow into what works for you and search the forum for the pros and cons of different equipment items when they come into question.

Now...specifically to the thermometer question...Digital will work fine in most cases...but its nice to have an accurate glass thermometer for spot checks to make sure digital or dial thermometers are correct. I suppose if you had to use one i would opt for a partial immersion glass thermometer...just my .02.

Anyway research, research and research...i think with all the info here you will be able to draw your own sound conclusions depending on which approach you decide to go with.

Cheers

 

[outside92129]

Well i'm only a rec-diver with some DIR bits but i know where you're coming from. Homebrew is a bit different, there are different setups depending on your goals, and for better (or worse... SWMBO's view) your goals will probably change significantly and rapidly as you go down the rabbit hole and get more experience. I started off with 5 gal extract batches, i thought that would have me set, then i upgraded to partial-extract, BIAB, then 10gal full-grain. Ugh, i hate to think of how much i would have saved had i just went to the "end", but i wouldn't have know what to do w/o the previous steps. If i had a mentor or someone to tag along with i would have had a better idea. But it's been an awesome DIY trip, this weeks plans are to add a tippy to the stand/MLT. Nothing like a night of welding to annoy the wife

Some questions to ponder:
* what do you want to do/make?
* what size batches?
* DIY or purchase?
* bling or not?
* automation? what's your time worth?
* is weather an issue? propane/electric?
* space, money considerations

Note that inexpensive is different from cheap. Buy the right stuff at the right place and it'll last you forever. There are some commercial setups that like your air-integrated computer, feel free to ask or search around. These can be controversial questions and there are folks who feel strongly on both sides.

 

[Bobby_M]

Without a doubt, the DIR equivalent in brewing would start with all grain and temps would be automated to some degree. I'm not saying I agree with it being the only "right" way, but the DIR mentality is something we call EAC around here.

When I had to get out of "real" diving several years ago, I did sell a set of steel doubles on a backplate and wing so....

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

yes... you did open a can of worms.
I think for some, this hobby is a religious experience.
DIR... Ask yourself, what's my budget? What do I want? What do I need?

 

[emjay]

Plate chiller or counterflow chiller!

I've seen so many people end up ditching their original immersion chiller, it's ridiculous.

Also... a large enough mash tun.

 

[Homercidal]

I can't see much DIR in brewing. There are too many variables and personal desires going on.

That said, "I" think that it's important to get a GOOD digital thermometer (it can be cheap, as long as it's waterproof and accurate).

I think you may as well start with a kettle big enough to do 5 gallons (unless you already KNOW that you will be brewing larger batches).

I think the biggest DIR advice is to READ READ READ! Doing it right in brewing is more often a matter of method, rather than equipment. You can do great beer with a turkey fryer, electric HERMS, or 1/2 batch extract stovetop if you follow sound practices.

And there is still lots of room for personalizing HOW you achieve those methods.

If you brew enough, though, a temp controlled ferm chamber might be one major DIR IMO.

 

[Homercidal]

This thread makes me mad that I didn't bust out the reg and BCD and teach diving to my daughter this summer. It's been WAY too long (but Michigan lakes are dark, cold and muddy, usually)

 

[lil_mac]

Now...specifically to the thermometer question...Digital will work fine in most cases...but its nice to have an accurate glass thermometer for spot checks to make sure digital or dial thermometers are correct. I suppose if you had to use one i would opt for a partial immersion glass thermometer...just my .02.

Cheers

Thanks! From what you are saying I would think just stick with a glass dial one if I have to double-check the digital all the time.

Question: Doesn’t anyone else make a angled thermometer like the Blichmann without the price tag? And how do you keep from bending the probe when stirring the Wert/Mash?

Well i'm only a rec-diver with some DIR bits but i know where you're coming from. Homebrew is a bit different, there are different setups depending on your goals, and for better (or worse... SWMBO's view) your goals will probably change significantly and rapidly as you go down the rabbit hole and get more experience. I started off with 5 gal extract batches, i thought that would have me set, then i upgraded to partial-extract, BIAB, then 10gal full-grain. Ugh, i hate to think of how much i would have saved had i just went to the "end", but i wouldn't have know what to do w/o the previous steps. If i had a mentor or someone to tag along with i would have had a better idea. But it's been an awesome DIY trip, this weeks plans are to add a tippy to the stand/MLT. Nothing like a night of welding to annoy the wife

Ya that’s kinda what I am getting at. I just want to do 5gal extract for now, but do not want to buy a new Kettle when I move outdoors to maybe a propane AG system. But I see what you mean about learning as you go. I just hate re-buying things.

Without a doubt, the DIR equivalent in brewing would start with all grain and temps would be automated to some degree. I'm not saying I agree with it being the only "right" way, but the DIR mentality is something we call EAC around here.

When I had to get out of "real" diving several years ago, I did sell a set of steel doubles on a backplate and wing so....

Haa…ya it took me awhile to go over to the dark side. But I still am not a cultist DIR, just like the gear configuration, and training. Too bad the name implies that you have to be an elitist. Thanks for the input.

Plate chiller or counterflow chiller!

I've seen so many people end up ditching their original immersion chiller, it's ridiculous.

Also... a large enough mash tun.

This is a prime example of what I mean. I 1st thought these looked great, but then I read and heard that cleaning is an issue and you need special cleaners, and it takes more time for cleanup. Also read that if you do not strain you wert good enough it’s going to clog a plate chiller. They look super nice and are really small, but there are so many opinions.

This thread makes me mad that I didn't bust out the reg and BCD and teach diving to my daughter this summer. It's been WAY too long (but Michigan lakes are dark, cold and muddy, usually)

Muddy? I dream of diving there. All the pictures I have seen are crystal clear compared to the Puget sound where we get 5-10' on average. :rockin:



Thanks everyone for your responses. I will have to keep reading. I guess I really need to decide how big I want to go so I can order a pot. (Have not bought anything yet)

Lil_Mac!

 

[LordUlrich]

I am a big proponent of doing something once, and doing it right. That being said as you learn about brewing there is a deffinate progression that will help you. My suggestion to everyone who starts brewing is:
Books are the most important tool in the brewery, I like How To Brew, Brewing Classic Styles, and Designing Great Beers
get a kettle big enough, usually i say 15 gal (for 5 gal batches, then you could do 10 gal on occasion)
figure out how you intend to power you boil (electric, propane or NG), and invest in in once, get a good burner (or element)
get a stir-plate and do yeast starters (you will make better beer with healthy yeast)
Get fermentation temperature control as soon as possible
Seriously look into keging (you will enjoy brewing way more if you don't have to clean bottles)

I personally feel that it is important to make good consistent beer with extract full boil before you even consider getting a mash tun.

 

[Homercidal]

Frankly, I'd recommend getting a decent digital thermometer. You won't use it but a few times in the mash, if that. Once you get a process down, you set the temp and close the cooler and walk away for an hour.

The analogue style are great for the HLT or BK just to keep track of where the water temp is at at the moment. They are too slow for the mash IMO. With a digital, you can check the temp in about 10 seconds or so and be done. They are also usually more accurate, which is necessary for the mash, not so much for boiling.

 

[damnitbeavis]

I think the chiller information given earlier is just one person's opinion. I brew 10-30 gallon batches and use immersion chilling and am very happy with it. It is easy to clean and it works FAST if properly sized.

As said before, think about kegging. Consider whether you want ball or pin lock kegs now, as it is not super easy to switch later. Ball lock kegs are harder to find these days, but have an easier pressure release system. You can always bottle carbonated beer from a keg if you want to share it or travel with it.

Some may disagree, and this may be getting too far ahead of you if you only want to do 5 gallon extract batches, but I wish I had gone to tri-clover fittings on all my stuff earlier. They are expensive for any kind of disconnect, so if you go to tri lovers after investing in camlocks, then you will be wasting money. In a similar vein, I wish I had started out using high temp 1/2 inch silicone tubing, and hadn't wasted my time with the cheap, lower ID stuff. However, if you are sure you are going to stick with 5 gallon batches, then this too may be overkill.

Kettles are nice to have in many sizes, but I would consider not buying one smaller than 10 gallons. This would probably be my strongest recommendation at this time for you. This will make it easier for you to not have boil overs, and do 5 gallon full wort boils right from the start. Consider that your kettle size limits your batch size. I have a 45 gallon kettle that works great for 30 gallon batches, but is useless for a 10 gallon batch. A counterflow chiller or plate chiller could be used in many size batches, but immersion chillers are more size specific. I get around this by using two nested coils on my big batches, and just the smaller one when I do small batches.

Honestly, it will be hard to buy something once and never have to buy it again. Read a lot of books, ask questions in forums, and bounce your ideas off of people. There is a lot of collective intelligence here that you can tap into.

Buy quality stuff rather than cheap stuff. If you stick to stainless steel and stay with heavier gauge equipment you probably won't go wrong. Sorry to ramble.