Easy Stovetop All-Grain Brewing (with pics)

[weirdboy]

Instead of those overpriced grain bags, I really like the paint strainer bags you can buy in 2-packs from Home Depot or Lowes. It costs $2-$3 for two of them.

What I like to do is layer two of them on the pot. The first one I use to mash the grains, and the second stays in when I pull the grains out, and receives my hops additions when I bring it to a boil.

 

[DeathBrewer]

Many people go with the paint strainer bags and they seem to work well. That's a great suggestion.

 

[chemnitz]

If I get a paint strainer bag, do I want the 5-gallon size?

Thanks.

 

[New-B-Brewer]

Yes, get the 5 gallon size. You'll find them with the paint sprayers.

 

[loofey]

i have harvested 110 gallons of wheat on the small farm i live on and (newbie to all grain) was wondering if i can use the wheat to make a beer with?

 

[DeathBrewer]

Hell yeah! Raw wheat makes for a great Witbier!!

 

[pretzelb]

I'm interested in trying this but still not sure I'm up for it. I collected my thoughts and had a few questions which I don't think were covered here (if so, apologies in advance):

1. If you were to try this for the first time, what might be a good style to start with? Off the top of my head I thought a recipe kit with a low grain weight to make it physically easier. But would lighter brews be easier than darker ones?
2. Should this only be attempted if you know the numbers or formulas? For example, I read the part about determining the amount of water and I think it was related to calcs found using ProMash. What if you're not using something like that or don't understand all the numbers yet. Should you just stay away for a while? Or can I just go with the approximate values and still be fine?
3. This was probably covered but where to the specialty grains fit in the process? I don't remember seeing that and many of the kits I look at include them.
4. Any tips on pouring? One physical aspect that has me concerned is transferring a lot of hot liquid to / from other containers. I've seen too many incidents with hot liquids and I have a healthy concern about transfers.

 

[sp1365]

I'm interested in trying this but still not sure I'm up for it. I collected my thoughts and had a few questions which I don't think were covered here (if so, apologies in advance):

1. If you were to try this for the first time, what might be a good style to start with? Off the top of my head I thought a recipe kit with a low grain weight to make it physically easier. But would lighter brews be easier than darker ones?
2. Should this only be attempted if you know the numbers or formulas? For example, I read the part about determining the amount of water and I think it was related to calcs found using ProMash. What if you're not using something like that or don't understand all the numbers yet. Should you just stay away for a while? Or can I just go with the approximate values and still be fine?
3. This was probably covered but where to the specialty grains fit in the process? I don't remember seeing that and many of the kits I look at include them.
4. Any tips on pouring? One physical aspect that has me concerned is transferring a lot of hot liquid to / from other containers. I've seen too many incidents with hot liquids and I have a healthy concern about transfers.

I have only done this once (try number 2 this weekend ), but I will try to help. My experience before this was 1 extract beer, so if I can make the switch I think just about anyone can.

1) I would definately try a smaller beer (or even do less than 5 gallons) for a first time. Less grain means smaller volume require for the mash and sparge pots as well as easier when draining the bag as it gets heavy. As for darker beers over lighter ones, it doesn't matter. Darkness (color) of the beer is determined from the type of grains put in and not the amount of grains. My first attempt was a 2.5 gallon English Mild. Nice rich brown color and an estimated OG of 1.035 (ended up at 1.040). Smaller beers = smaller OG.

2)Do you need to know the formulas? Kinda, there is a little leeway, but not a lot. My suggestion would be to download the trial of Beersmith. That is the program I use and it helps a lot figuring out what amounts of water and with recipe creation. Especially with AG brewing, software is a huge helpful tool.

3)Specialty grains go into the Mash Pot along with all the other grains. Basically the grains you mash in with will be all the grains for the recipe (base + specialty)

4)As for pouring, all I can say is do it carefully. I just poured from one pot to the other with a little help from my girlfriend. Take it slow and you should be fine. As for transferring into my primary after cooling I use an auto-siphon.

I hope that helps.

 

[corvax13]

This is great thread... Havent read through all of it, so not sure if this has already come up, but Im wandering why it hasn't been made a sticky already...

 

[DRoyLenz]

Hey DB, just wanted to thank you for this tutorial. It helped me to start my AG adventure this past weekend. I used a similar style to yours, except my boil kettle is too small, so I had to tweak a few things here and there. If you're curious as to how I did it, check it out: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/all-grain-brewing-extract-brewing-equipment-pics-142648/

Thanks again!

 

[DeathBrewer]

I'm interested in trying this but still not sure I'm up for it. I collected my thoughts and had a few questions which I don't think were covered here (if so, apologies in advance):

1. If you were to try this for the first time, what might be a good style to start with? Off the top of my head I thought a recipe kit with a low grain weight to make it physically easier. But would lighter brews be easier than darker ones?
   
   Try doing a partial mash first. Check the link in my signature.
   
   
2. Should this only be attempted if you know the numbers or formulas? For example, I read the part about determining the amount of water and I think it was related to calcs found using ProMash. What if you're not using something like that or don't understand all the numbers yet. Should you just stay away for a while? Or can I just go with the approximate values and still be fine?
   
   My partial mash method uses 2 gallons of water for mash and 2 gallons for sparge. This is perfect for 5-6 lbs of grain, so you don't need to calculate any further. However, THIS CALCULATOR works great and is pretty easy to use.
   
   For temp, if you shoot for your mash water to be 162°F, you should fall right where you want to be @ 148-155°F.
   
   
3. This was probably covered but where to the specialty grains fit in the process? I don't remember seeing that and many of the kits I look at include them.
   
   Count them as part of your grain bill. So for my PM method, you would want a TOTAL of 5-6 lbs of grains. You want a high portion of base malts so you get good conversion, of course.
   
   
4. Any tips on pouring? One physical aspect that has me concerned is transferring a lot of hot liquid to / from other containers. I've seen too many incidents with hot liquids and I have a healthy concern about transfers.

I understand the concern...I've been burnt quite a few times Just pour carefully. When you pull the grain out, there should be plenty of headspace, so you shouldn't have to worry about difficult pouring after your mash&sparge. After your boil is done, you need to cool before you pour.

Let me know if you have any more questions!

 

[DeathBrewer]

This is great thread... Havent read through all of it, so not sure if this has already come up, but Im wandering why it hasn't been made a sticky already...

It was stickied once. My Easy Partial Mash Brewing thread is stickied now, and is probably better for beginners. They link to each other, so it works fine.

 

[MriswitH]

First and foremost, many thanks for making this up. I slowly crept into PM and have been looking for an excuse to get strictly into AG brewing. Got a couple questions / thoughts so please bear with me here.

Currently my equipment consists of a 5-gallon drink cooler with a bulkhead and braided hose for a MLT, standard aluminum turkey fryer pot just to boil up hot water, and at full boiling capacity, my brewpot is about 3.5 gallons. I've been looking at getting a larger brew pot, so if I did that I should be pretty much good to go for 5-gallon batches correct?

For some damned reason I was convinced that a 5-gallon drink cooler would max out at 6 pounds of grain but it looks like some guys have been having luck with almost 12 pounds in theirs?!

 

[DeathBrewer]

First and foremost, many thanks for making this up. I slowly crept into PM and have been looking for an excuse to get strictly into AG brewing. Got a couple questions / thoughts so please bear with me here.

No problem.

Currently my equipment consists of a 5-gallon drink cooler with a bulkhead and braided hose for a MLT, standard aluminum turkey fryer pot just to boil up hot water, and at full boiling capacity, my brewpot is about 3.5 gallons. I've been looking at getting a larger brew pot, so if I did that I should be pretty much good to go for 5-gallon batches correct?

If you got a 7.5 gallon brewpot, you would be "pretty much" good to go. Although you could start now with your turkey fryer pot, depending on the size. A lot of people boil with aluminum.

For some damned reason I was convinced that a 5-gallon drink cooler would max out at 6 pounds of grain but it looks like some guys have been having luck with almost 12 pounds in theirs?!

I wouldn't go more than 10.5 lbs with a 1.25qt/lb ratio. You need a little headspace to stir.

Looks like this thread is seeing more action lately. Keep the questions coming!

 

[MriswitH]

Sounds good to me!

The fryer is a 32qt. (or larger.. can't remember off hand) so i'll use that till I get a different brew pot.

Looks like there is quite a selection of recipes to start out with that'll accommodate the 5-gallon MLT I have, so needless to say, i'm pretty excited now.

Way to go DB, looks like I gotta brew again this weekend to try the process out. :rockin: Just brewed 2 batches last weekend, another can't hurt, right?

 

[sp1365]

Way to go DB, looks like I gotta brew again this weekend to try the process out. :rockin: Just brewed 2 batches last weekend, another can't hurt, right?

I certainly hope not . I am brewing another this weekend (I wish 2, but I dont have time). Now I just have to decide which one to do. Best Bitter or India Brown Ale?

 

[New-B-Brewer]

So I just completed my second batch using this technique. My first one was a Belgian Tripel and this one was an IPA. I guess I jumped right in with both feet using 14lbs of grain in each beer but I have altered this technique a little to use 2 boiling kettles, 2 grain bags and basically make 2 2.5 gallon batches and combine them.
I got to thinking today while watching one of bags drain after the sparge. I know that you aren't supposed to wring too much water out of the grains or else you will get off flavors from the husks, but if you have 7 lbs of grain soaking wet in a bag the grain toward the bottom of the bag has a lot of pressure on it. Does this squeeze some of the off flavors out of the husk? I guess I should say my first batch isn't quite ready to drink yet so I have yet to taste a beer made this way.

 

[DeathBrewer]

I would run more water through it before I squeezed it...it will be just as effective. Squeezing COULD extract tannins, but I've heard from toher people that they don't experience off-flavors. I just think it's uneccessary. Just heat up some additional water and run it through the bag.

 

[UTbrewer]

Question for you Deathbrewer...I love you method here but I am having trouble controlling temps in my mash pot. It keep get 8 to 10 degrees hotter when I put the lid on and I consequently have to stir a lot to get the temp back down...is that constant stirring going to impart bad flavors or tannins or something into my beer?? Thanks!

 

[DeathBrewer]

Based on your grain temp, grain-water ratio and infusion temp, you should be able to hit the numbers just where you want them using this calculator:

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

I don't see how it is getting 8 to 10 degress HOTTER. Are you using the burner after you've mashed in? You should remove this from heat once you get your water to temp. If you want to help maintain heat, wrap it in some towels or blankets; never use the burner.

Remember, also, that there are hot and cold spots in the mash. Once you mash in, stir well and throw your thermometer in there, and leave it closed for 10 minutes before you check your temp. This will allow the temperature to regulate throughout the mash.

Keeping a pot of boiling water and a pot of cold water will help with quick adjustments, but always remember to let the pot sit and the temp regulate before checking. I have not had to adjust my temperature since I started using the calculator and insulation.

Hope that helps.

 

[sp1365]

Alright, I am having some problems keeping my temperature steady. My first attempt at this I got my temps to hold steady at 154 for the 60 minute mash. However, my last beer and the one I am doing right now have dropped anywhere from 3-5 degrees during the mash. Is there anything that I can do to reduce the amount of heat loss I have during mash?

 

[DeathBrewer]

Wrap it in blankets or towels. Sometimes I use folded towels and bungie cords to secure them, with a pillow on the top.

If you start at 154°F and it drops 5 degrees, you are still at a great mash temp. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

[sp1365]

Wrap it in blankets or towels. Sometimes I use folded towels and bungie cords to secure them, with a pillow on the top.

If you start at 154°F and it drops 5 degrees, you are still at a great mash temp. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Actually I had been aiming for 156 so it only dropped to 151. I havnt been worried, I'm just trying to dial in my procedures and get better consistency. I am definitely going to try that. Right now I am preheating an oven to just under 150 to try to reduce the amount of heat lost. Apparently that hast been working though.

I opened my first bottle from the first batch I did with this method and it was phenomenal. Finally got the pipeline started.

 

[DeathBrewer]

156°F is really high...what are you making?

 

[sp1365]

It was an India Brown Ale. I was hoping to have it finish a bit sweeter to counter the bitterness of the hops.

Recipe:
Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 3.00 gal
Boil Size: 3.43 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
4.50 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 76.53 %
0.50 lb Brown Malt (65.0 SRM) Grain 8.50 %
0.25 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 4.25 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 4.25 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 4.25 %
0.13 lb Pale Chocolate (250.0 SRM) Grain 2.21 %
1.00 oz Challenger [7.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
0.25 oz Pilgrim [11.00 %] (60 min) Hops 16.2 IBU
0.25 oz Pilgrim [11.00 %] (30 min) Hops 12.4 IBU
0.25 oz Pilgrim [11.00 %] (30 min) Hops 12.4 IBU
0.25 oz Pilgrim [11.00 %] (10 min) Hops 5.9 IBU
1.00 oz Challenger [7.00 %] (1 min) Hops 1.8 IBU
1 Pkgs British Ale (White Labs #WLP005) Yeast-Ale

 

[DeathBrewer]

I find that higher mash temps give more a "dextrinous" quality than a sweetness. A good way to add some sweetness is with a few ounces of honey malt, which would go great in a brown ale. Just a suggestion...I mash most of my beers at ~150°F...I like a good, dry beer and simply use the grains to add sweetness, fullness, etc.

 

[UTbrewer]

Based on your grain temp, grain-water ratio and infusion temp, you should be able to hit the numbers just where you want them using this calculator:

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

I don't see how it is getting 8 to 10 degress HOTTER. Are you using the burner after you've mashed in? You should remove this from heat once you get your water to temp. If you want to help maintain heat, wrap it in some towels or blankets; never use the burner.

Remember, also, that there are hot and cold spots in the mash. Once you mash in, stir well and throw your thermometer in there, and leave it closed for 10 minutes before you check your temp. This will allow the temperature to regulate throughout the mash.

Keeping a pot of boiling water and a pot of cold water will help with quick adjustments, but always remember to let the pot sit and the temp regulate before checking. I have not had to adjust my temperature since I started using the calculator and insulation.

Hope that helps.

Thanks man! I am probably doing another brew this weekend and I will give that a try! :rockin:

 

[wcarter1227]

Death Brewer,

Thanks for the awesome tutorial. It has helped take some fears out of jumping into all grain. I started using your partial mash method with my last 2 beers and have found that i can use a better variety of grain and get a better tasting end product. Also getting sick of paying for extract as it can get quite expensive.

you mentioned using a 24x24 grain bag. i have a 18x24 grain bag. this still should be ok if i keep the grains under 12 pounds?

 

[DeathBrewer]

I'd shoot low at first and see how it works. I generally only use about 10 lbs of grain or less for this method anyway...otherwise the bag can get quite heavy after absorbing the water.

 

[NYCBrewGuy]

OK. After a few partial mash attempts, I'm stepping up to AG. I've got about 12 lbs of grain and a 6 gallon pot. My plan is to heat 15 qts to 158 (aiming for a 150 degree mash), dough in. I think this puts my total volume at around 19 quarts. The grain should absorb just under 5 qts and I'm targeting 22 qt for my boil so I'll need to add almost 8 quarts to get to my 22 qt boil. If I boil off about a gallon that puts me at 18 qts (4.5 gallons).

Does this make sense? Am I way off on anything?
Appreciate it!