Easy Steam Infusion Mash System

[FlyGuy]

That was your first AG, right Flyguy ? Congrats are in order ! Welcome to the AG club.

That was my first real AG batch, yes. And my first 5 gallon batch in the new MLT setup. Thanks!

 

[brewman !]

You realize there is almost no beer you can't make now, right ? AG + step mashes + liquid yeast = brew just about anything, just like the big boys do. Make it as dry, sweet, malty, clean, hoppy, as you want. Mash any grain, any way. Its a pretty heady stuff when you stop and think about it.

Can you tell I'm still smacking my lips from that Cranberry Ale ? *grin

 

[FlyGuy]

Yep, things have come a long way for me since brewing from no-boil wort kits only 6 months ago! I'm excited! I have a huge list of beers I want to brew next.

So many brews, so little time....

 

[GoBrewers]

This has been a phenomenal thread and I just wanted to ask you a couple questions about your steam mash setup.

First, do you also use the pressure cooker to heat your sparge water in a cooler? If the steam was capable of getting water to ~170F, then you wouldn't need a burner under the HLT, right?

Second, if I was to modify your 10 gal cooler MLT conversion with a copper manifold rather than SS braid, would you expect that it would be pretty easy to connect the steam inlet to that manifold, then disconnect it later during sparging?

Thanks for all the info. I want to start AG this summer and it seems that this is the easiest way.

 

[FlyGuy]

First, do you also use the pressure cooker to heat your sparge water in a cooler? If the steam was capable of getting water to ~170F, then you wouldn't need a burner under the HLT, right?

In theory, you could do this. But it is more efficient to heat your sparge water directly on the burner during the mash. That is why I have the second cooler as a hot liquor tank - it holds heated water to free up the burner later. At the end of the mash, my water is pre-heated and waiting to go in the HLT while the pressure cooker heats up on the burner.

Or, if you want to do everything on the stove-top (like I did for my first trial), you will have burners for everything simultaneously. That' s a nice part about this system -- you only need one burner/propane tank OR you can do everything indoors. That's important for me since it gets too cold to use my propane cooker on the deck in Canada in the winter.

Second, if I was to modify your 10 gal cooler MLT conversion with a copper manifold rather than SS braid, would you expect that it would be pretty easy to connect the steam inlet to that manifold, then disconnect it later during sparging?

I thought about this a fair bit, but couldn't figure out how it would work. Disconnecting the manifold is tricky since it is stuck way down in the tun below all the grist. Honestly, my KISS solution worked so well, that I just gave up on the idea of an integreated manifold. Plus, a SS braid works REALLY well, and I didn't want to give that up.

Thanks for all the info. I want to start AG this summer and it seems that this is the easiest way.

You bet -- my pleasure. And you are right -- it doesn't get any easier (or cheaper) than this! Anyone can do a full all-grain system with full multi-step mash capabilities for well under $200 with a highly portable, adaptable system.

I have to admit that I drool over the big 3 kettle, 3 burner, brew sculptured systems that a lot of guys use. But there are some big advantages to a cooler- and steam-based system like this (cost, portability, ease of use, etc.). I really don't see myself changing much in my system in the future. It is just so simple and easy and efficient.

 

[98EXL]

nice thread..... *puts into back of head for later*

 

[Rayzer]

By making this modification to a pressure cooker, would I be correct in that you could still use the pressure cooker to cook and or can with?

This is a great idea either way! I cannot wait to get into all grain brewing!
Ray

 

[FlyGuy]

Yes, absolutely. I also use it as a home 'autoclave' for sterilizing my yeast freezing equipment, and for canning wort for making starters. Works great.

 

[Llarian]

How do you prevent the pressure from escaping when using it as a normal pressure cooker? Is there a valve I'm not seeing?

-D

 

[FlyGuy]

Yes, there is a needle/angle valve installed on the pot. If you look at the third picture in the thread (under the title Parts List), you can see it. It is brass and I tapped and threaded it right into the lid of the pot. Sometimes, if you are lucky, your pressure relief valve might be the same thread, so you can insert a tee and run the needle/angle valve off it.

 

[Llarian]

Oh, yeah I see it in the parts list now too. I think I need more coffee. =)

-D

 

[Shockerengr]

Yes, there is a needle/angle valve installed on the pot. If you look at the third picture in the thread (under the title Parts List), you can see it. It is brass and I tapped and threaded it right into the lid of the pot. Sometimes, if you are lucky, your pressure relief valve might be the same thread, so you can insert a tee and run the needle/angle valve off it.

I wouldn't remove the pressure release valve....it's a good idea to have a second way of releasing pressure were something to go wrong with the valve.

 

[mr x]

Here's a few pics of my set-up:

http://i10.tinypic.com/53fc2o9.jpg
http://i8.tinypic.com/66bs01y.jpg
http://i7.tinypic.com/53ztusj.jpg
http://i16.tinypic.com/54bsh0k.jpg

 

[FlyGuy]

Here's a few pics of my set-up:

http://i10.tinypic.com/53fc2o9.jpg
http://i8.tinypic.com/66bs01y.jpg
http://i7.tinypic.com/53ztusj.jpg
http://i16.tinypic.com/54bsh0k.jpg

Nice setup! That pressure cooker looks familiar to me....

So do you inject steam and lauter through the same manifold? I was thinking of doing that, but got to cheap/lazy to replace my SS braid. Seems like a really slick setup, though. Maybe I will do something similar on my next version.

 

[mr x]

I took your recommendation and bought the next size (9 litres) at Canadian Tire when it was on sale.

I just built this thing today, so I haven't tried it yet, but the plan is to steam and lauter through the same manifold. Definitely need to find a better heat source with the pressure cooker. My glass-top stove elements don't cut it. I'm going to try it at the girlfriends on her normal stove and see if it's any better.

 

[bradsul]

I took your recommendation and bought the next size (9 litres) at Canadian Tire when it was on sale...

I'm waiting for that to go back on sale as well. As well as that sylvania bar fridge.

 

[mr x]

I've got a few tips for that project, I'll post them in the other thread I started.

 

[brewman !]

Swagelock ! That is an expensive valve. Any small brass valve will work too.

 

[mr x]

Swagelock ! That is an expensive valve. Any small brass valve will work too.

Free for me.

I'm an instrument mechanic and have tons of this stuff laying around.

 

[FlyGuy]

I wouldn't remove the pressure release valve....it's a good idea to have a second way of releasing pressure were something to go wrong with the valve.

Absolutely do not remove the pressure release valve!

But what you can do is put a tee in it's place, screw the pressure relief valve on one connector and the needle/angle valve on another.

 

[mr x]

I agree, I left both relief valves in my cooker. Better safe than sorry. A few years ago some employees at KFC here couldn't get the pressure cooker (full of hot oil) open. So one of them used a screwdriver to pry the lid off. It exploded and 3 people were burned bad. Just be safe around these things.

 

[marosell]

I was getting lots of hot and cold pockets initally, but a bit of stirring fixed that

Did you think about making the holes directional, in all the same direction? This would work best with the round cooler tun.

It might cause a spinning "whirlpool" circulation, effectively dispersing heat more efficiently and evenly. And perhaps, dare I say, no need to stir, so less heat loss from the open lid.

 

[mr x]

That's an interesting idea. I've been toying with the idea of a motorized stirred mounted on the lid. Anybody have any thoughts on this RPM wise?

 

[bradsul]

Pretty darn slow I would think - you don't want to aerate your mash. Not sure what you'd want for actual RPM's though.

 

[FlyGuy]

Did you think about making the holes directional, in all the same direction? This would work best with the round cooler tun.

It might cause a spinning "whirlpool" circulation, effectively dispersing heat more efficiently and evenly. And perhaps, dare I say, no need to stir, so less heat loss from the open lid.

It is an interesting idea, but typically the mash is so thick that steam jets wouldn't be enough to get it moving (self-stirring). However, one could integrate the steam manifold into a stirring arm that is attached to a low RPM electric motor. I think someone here mentioned this using a motor from an electric ice cream maker.

 

[marosell]

it may not cause a whirlpool, but i definitely think it will keep it circulated.

any kind of motor will have too many tiny places to clean mash out of. better off with a strong magnet stirrer

 

[mr x]

However, one could integrate the steam manifold into a stirring arm that is attached to a low RPM electric motor. I think someone here mentioned this using a motor from an electric ice cream maker.

I think it's time for a trip to Princess Auto and dig through the junk. I had thought about a rotating steam manifold, but then I would still need a manifold to drain the mash, so I think I'll go with a straight up stir device. Then with my temperature controller and solenoid, I can drop the lid, set it and forget it. lol

 

[FlyGuy]

I think it's time for a trip to Princess Auto and dig through the junk. I had thought about a rotating steam manifold, but then I would still need a manifold to drain the mash, so I think I'll go with a straight up stir device. Then with my temperature controller and solenoid, I can drop the lid, set it and forget it. lol

Cool -- if you do it, I would love to see how it works. Been thinking of something similar for myself.

 

[mr x]

Having a hard time finding a motor/gear setup that would be suitable. They have bins full of old 12v/115v motors there, but I can't tell what the rpm is. I think I'll try to get to the local hobby shop and see what they have. I may be able to use gears or pulleys of some sort to reduce speed if necessary, but I would like to keep things as simple as possible. I have an old cordless drill that could be sacrificed for the motor. The only problem then is the speed - I'll have to see how convenient it is to keep it down. On the plus side, the aluminum fan blades there look useful as stir paddles.

 

[mr x]

Silly me - rotisserie motor!!! Can be had cheap and usually with mounts. Maybe too slow though - 4 rpm.

Or maybe this -
http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/me...AR&Product_Code=TM95MTR2804&Category_Code=MTR

I'll have to try by had with the drill to figure out a good RPM.