Munich Dunkel Dunk!!!

[camonick]

Recipe Type

All Grain

Yeast

Saflager W-34/70

Yeast Starter

N/A

Batch Size (Gallons)

3.4

Original Gravity

1.053

Final Gravity

1.014

Boiling Time (Minutes)

60

IBU

25.4

Color

15.5 SRM

Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)

14-21 days @ 54 °F

Tasting Notes

A smooth, malty version of Dunkel

Here is my version of a Munich Dunkel lager. I researched the style and this is comparable to some commercial versions I've had.
NOTE: THIS IS A 3.4 GALLON BATCH SIZE WITH A FINAL KEGGING VOLUME OF 3 GALLONS!!!

I BIAB so you may need to adjust the grain bill to match your rig as well as scale up or down depending on your needs.

Being a 3 gallon recipe, 1 package of 34/70 was sufficient for this size.

Dunk!!!
Munich Dunkel
Type: All Grain Date: 28 Jul 2019
Batch Size (fermenter): 3.40 gal
Brewer: Nick
Boil Size: 4.77 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Equipment: Windblown Brewery 3 gal
End of Boil Volume 3.67 gal
Brewhouse Efficiency: 74.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 3.00 gal
Measured Mash Efficiency 80.4 %
Fermentation: 14-21 days @ 54° Single stage
Taste Rating(out of 50): 42.0

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5 lbs 4.0 oz Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 1 77.0 %
1 lbs 4.0 oz Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 18.3 %
2.5 oz Carafa I (337.0 SRM) Grain 3 2.3 %
2.5 oz Melanoidin Malt (27.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.3 %
1.00 oz Tettnanger [3.70 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 16.2 IBUs
0.50 oz Tettnanger [3.70 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 6.2 IBUs
0.50 oz Tettnanger [3.70 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 2.9 IBUs
0.5 Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 mins) Fining
1.0 pkg Saflager Lager (DCL/Fermentis W-34/70) Yeast

Beer Profile
Est Original Gravity: 1.053 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.053 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.014 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.3 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 5.2 %
Bitterness: 25.4 IBUs Calories: 177.4 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 15.5 SRM
Mash Profile

Mash Name: BIAB, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 6 lbs 13.0 oz
Sparge Water: 0.00 gal
Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature:
Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Estimated Mash PH: 5.5

Mash Steps
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Saccharification Add 5.11 gal of water at 158.9 F Mash @ 153.0 F 60 min
Sparge Step: If steeping, remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
Mash Notes: Brew in a bag method where the full boil volume is mashed within the boil vessel and then the grains are withdrawn at the end of the mash. No active sparging is required. This is a medium body beer profile.

Carbonation and Storage
Carbonation Type: Keg Volumes of CO2: 2.5
Pressure/Weight: 14.89 PSI Carbonation Used: Keg with 14.89 PSI
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 36.0 F Age for: 30.00 days

 

[Broothru]

Here is my version of a Munich Dunkel lager. I researched the style and this is comparable to some commercial versions I've had.
NOTE: THIS IS A 3.4 GALLON BATCH SIZE WITH A FINAL KEGGING VOLUME OF 3 GALLONS!!!

I BIAB so you may need to adjust the grain bill to match your rig as well as scale up or down depending on your needs.

Being a 3 gallon recipe, 1 package of 34/70 was sufficient for this size.

Dunk!!!
Munich Dunkel
Type: All Grain Date: 28 Jul 2019
Batch Size (fermenter): 3.40 gal Brewer: Nick
Boil Size: 4.77 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Windblown Brewery 3 gal.
End of Boil Volume 3.67 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 74.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 3.00 gal Measured Mash Efficiency 80.4 %
Fermentation: Lager, Two Stage Taste Rating(out of 50): 42.0

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU Volume
5 lbs 4.0 oz Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 1 77.0 % 0.41 gal
1 lbs 4.0 oz Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 18.3 % 0.10 gal
2.5 oz Carafa I (337.0 SRM) Grain 3 2.3 % 0.01 gal
2.5 oz Melanoiden Malt (27.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.3 % 0.01 gal
1.00 oz Tettnang (Tettnang Tettnager) [3.70 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 16.2 IBUs -
0.50 oz Tettnang (Tettnang Tettnager) [3.70 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 6 6.2 IBUs -
0.50 oz Tettnang (Tettnang Tettnager) [3.70 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 2.9 IBUs -
0.5 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 mins) Fining 8 - -
1.0 pkg Saflager Lager (DCL/Fermentis #W-34/70) [50.28 ml] Yeast 9 - -

Beer Profile
Est Original Gravity: 1.053 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.053 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.014 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.3 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 5.2 %
Bitterness: 25.4 IBUs Calories: 177.4 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 15.5 SRM
Mash Profile

Mash Name: BIAB, Medium Body Total Grain Weight: 6 lbs 13.0 oz
Sparge Water: 0.00 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Estimated Mash PH: 5.5


Mash Steps
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Saccharification Add 5.11 gal of water at 158.9 F Mash @ 153.0 F 60 min
Sparge Step: If steeping, remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
Mash Notes: Brew in a bag method where the full boil volume is mashed within the boil vessel and then the grains are withdrawn at the end of the mash. No active sparging is required. This is a medium body beer profile.

Carbonation and Storage
Carbonation Type: Keg Volumes of CO2: 2.5
Pressure/Weight: 14.89 PSI Carbonation Used: Keg with 14.89 PSI
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 36.0 F Age for: 30.00 days
Fermentation: Lager, Two Stage Storage Temperature: 36.0 F

View attachment 676730
View attachment 676729

Looks beautiful. Back when I frequently traveled to Germany I would occasionally quaff a liter or two of Dunkel. It was a very nice contrast to the lighter Pils and Helles which were always my go-to beers, and your beer looks exactly like a 'slam dunk' likeness of the Dunkels I remembered.

Dang it. Now I have ANOTHER must-do beer to brew. Thank you, I suppose.

Brooo Brother

 

[camonick]

...and your beer looks exactly like a 'slam dunk' likeness of the Dunkels I remembered.

Dang it. Now I have ANOTHER must-do beer to brew. Thank you, I suppose.

Brooo Brother

Funny you mention that. Here's a picture of my bottle label.

 

[Broothru]

Funny you mention that. Here's a picture of my bottle label.

View attachment 676774

That's really cool. I also saw you recipe post of "Blonde Moment". You're brewing some good lookin' beers, not to mention some clever labels.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Thanks for posting! Subscribing

 

[BongoYodeler]

Hi @camonick I love Dunkels but have never brewed one before, or any kind of lager for that matter. So I'm thinking of brewing a Dunkel and have started looking at some recipes and I saw this one, (looks beautiful btw). What were your impressions of it? Anything you'd do differently?
I don't secondary so I'd be more apt to leave it in the fermenter for 3 weeks or so and then pressure transfer to a keg to lager for a month or more.

 

[camonick]

Hi @camonick I love Dunkels but have never brewed one before, or any kind of lager for that matter. So I'm thinking of brewing a Dunkel and have started looking at some recipes and I saw this one, (looks beautiful btw). What were your impressions of it? Anything you'd do differently?
I don't secondary so I'd be more apt to leave it in the fermenter for 3 weeks or so and then pressure transfer to a keg to lager for a month or more.

Thanks for considering my recipe. As of now, I wouldn’t change a thing. I have changed the amount of Carafa and the darkness a little but haven’t noticed any big difference so I just brew the original recipe. I personally think it’s as good or better than any American version of a Dunkel and might hold its own against some imported brews. I have shared it with several members in the FotHB trades, and I know @ThirstyPawsHB (Pianoman) has a fondness for it. I don’t secondary either and just noticed the fermentation schedule says 2 stage… please ignore that.
Good luck if you decide to brew this and please let me know your impressions if you do.

Edit:
Here is the water profile I use for my full volume no sparge BIAB
Water: RO
Ca: 44
Mg: 10
Na: 17
Cl: 11
Sulfate: 22
Estimated mash pH 5.5

 

[BongoYodeler]

Thanks for considering my recipe. As of now, I wouldn’t change a thing. I have changed the amount of Carafa and the darkness a little but haven’t noticed any big difference so I just brew the original recipe. I personally think it’s as good or better than any American version of a Dunkel and might hold its own against some imported brews. I have shared it with several members in the FotHB trades, and I know @ThirstyPawsHB (Pianoman) has a fondness for it. I don’t secondary either and just noticed the fermentation schedule says 2 stage… please ignore that.
Good luck if you decide to brew this and please let me know your impressions if you do.

Edit:
Here is the water profile I use for my full volume no sparge BIAB
Water: RO
Ca: 44
Mg: 10
Na: 17
Cl: 11
Sulfate: 22
Estimated mash pH 5.5

Thank you!! I think I’ll try to brew it later this month or early September using your recipe scaled to my setup.

 

[Beermeister32]

My Dunkel label…

 

[Beermeister32]

Last Dunkel I did was based more on Pilsner malt with just a small amount of Carafa 2. Also the hopping schedule was less, I believe it was about 1 to 1.5 oz Hallertau Mittlefruh for the entire 5 gallon batch.

 

[mashdar]

Landed here from Bongo's reference in the warm lager thread.

What munich malt(s) to you prefer? 9SRM sounds like Weyermann 2? I've been going back and forth on all-Barke or a mix.

Also, have you brewed it without the melanoidin? Do you find it significant?

 

[jdubdvdt]

Landed here from Bongo's reference in the warm lager thread.

What munich malt(s) to you prefer? 9SRM sounds like Weyermann 2? I've been going back and forth on all-Barke or a mix.

Also, have you brewed it without the melanoidin? Do you find it significant?

9L would be Munich 2.
I am going to use all Barke in mine, but I am a Barke brodude.

I prefer Barke Munich unless you want to start talking about Avangard's Dark Munich (15L) - that would be fun in a beer like this.

I cannot imagine that melanoidin malt in this is really important with a high percentage of Munich malt. I find melanoidin malt to make an impact in light beers like Helles or Festbier.

 

[camonick]

Landed here from Bongo's reference in the warm lager thread.

What munich malt(s) to you prefer? 9SRM sounds like Weyermann 2? I've been going back and forth on all-Barke or a mix.

Also, have you brewed it without the melanoidin? Do you find it significant?

Yes, it is Weyermann 2. I’ve always used the Melanoiden… haven’t tried without it. I’ve recently been experimenting with sauergut in my mash and just brewed a batch Saturday with some in it. I’m excited to see how it turns out. Biggest hurdle right now is the low AA hops coming from Germany the last few years.

 

[jdubdvdt]

Yes, it is Weyermann 2. I’ve always used the Melanoiden… haven’t tried without it. I’ve recently been experimenting with sauergut in my mash and just brewed a batch Saturday with some in it. I’m excited to see how it turns out. Biggest hurdle right now is the low AA hops coming from Germany the last few years.

I've been using Perle or Magnum to bitter. Perle is mid 5's and helps a bit. Magnum is usually pretty high. I like Perle a lot for bittering in my German lagers.

 

[mashdar]

FWIW I got a pound of 3.3% AA mittelfruh (2023 harvest, bought last year) from Bobby. It says "hop alliance" on the label. I guess Michigan Hop Alliance dropped "Michigan"? It was slightly too lemony, IMO, but was good.

Anyway, looks like the 2024 is also 3.3%, which I consider normal range for HM.
https://hopalliance.com/collections...uh-gr-hop-pellets-2024?variant=41554026496134

Much better than the 1.2% AA HM I got a few years ago!

 

[jdubdvdt]

FWIW I got a pound of 3.3% AA mittelfruh (2023 harvest, bought last year) from Bobby. It says "hop alliance" on the label. I guess Michigan Hop Alliance dropped "Michigan"? It was slightly too lemony, IMO, but was good.

Anyway, looks like the 2024 is also 3.3%, which I consider normal range for HM.
https://hopalliance.com/collections...uh-gr-hop-pellets-2024?variant=41554026496134

Much better than the 1.2% AA HM I got a few years ago!

My HM from YVH (2023) is 2.5%... grr.

 

[Broothru]

FWIW I got a pound of 3.3% AA mittelfruh (2023 harvest, bought last year) from Bobby. It says "hop alliance" on the label. I guess Michigan Hop Alliance dropped "Michigan"? It was slightly too lemony, IMO, but was good.

Anyway, looks like the 2024 is also 3.3%, which I consider normal range for HM.
https://hopalliance.com/collections...uh-gr-hop-pellets-2024?variant=41554026496134

Much better than the 1.2% AA HM I got a few years ago!

My latest Hallertau Magnum (2024 crop year) is 13.2% AA, but the Hallertau Mittelfruh ('24) was only 2.2% AA. Only bought half a pound of the Mittelfruh. Both were from YVH. The Perle I got recently, also 2024, was 6.4%, Spalter Select 3.5% from Yakima Chief. Yields are up for 2024, but % Alpha Acids are down. Here's hoping 2025 will see improving hop oil concentrations and strong yields.

 

[BongoYodeler]

I'll be brewing this recipe next, probably sometime in early May. To account for the low AA% of Tettnanger I'm thinking of using some Hallertau Magnum I have for the 16 ibu 60 minute addition, and then use Tettnanger at the ibu's stated in the recipe for the 30 and 10 min additions. Hopefully that'll keep it in the ballpark.

 

[jdubdvdt]

I'll be brewing this recipe next, probably sometime in early May. To account for the low AA% of Tettnanger I'm thinking of using some Hallertau Magnum I have for the 16 ibu 60 minute addition, and then use Tettnanger at the ibu's stated in the recipe for the 30 and 10 min additions. Hopefully that'll keep it in the ballpark.

That's what I would do - either that or Perle.
My dunkel recipe is similar except uses dehusked carafa 3, no 30 min addition, and at 10 min I do mittelfruh, but Tett would be good for this too.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Hey @camonick I think I remember that you use Beersmith software, (I do as well). I noticed something odd this morning while inputting and scaling this recipe into BS3. BS3 lists both Weyermann Carafa I and Carafa Special I as 337 SRM. However, if I go to the Weyermann website they list it as between 301-375 Lovibond, (taking the mid-point would come out to 337-ish). But 337 Lovibond is approximately 454 SRM using color converter tools, (Beer Maverick, and Beer and Brewing). It's easy enough to update BS3 Carafa I to 454 SRM on the "Ingredients" tab, but of course that change also increases your recipe to closer to 17.5 SRM. Not a big deal I suppose, just food for thought. Makes me want to go back and check some of the other BS3 grains.

 

[camonick]

Hey @camonick I think I remember that you use Beersmith software, (I do as well). I noticed something odd this morning while inputting and scaling this recipe into BS3. BS3 lists both Weyermann Carafa I and Carafa Special I as 337 SRM. However, if I go to the Weyermann website they list it as between 301-375 Lovibond, (taking the mid-point would come out to 337-ish). But 337 Lovibond is approximately 454 SRM using color converter tools, (Beer Maverick, and Beer and Brewing). It's easy enough to update BS3 Carafa I to 454 SRM on the "Ingredients" tab, but of course that change also increases your recipe to closer to 17.5 SRM. Not a big deal I suppose, just food for thought. Makes me want to go back and check some of the other BS3 grains.

Very interesting observation that I’ve never paid attention to. I never noticed that beersmith uses SRM and not °L for the grain values and just glossed over it. I wonder if Brad Smith could elaborate. I think he’s a member, but I don’t know his username. Looking at all the grain options it seems he’s using them interchangeably, ie. Crystal 20 is 20 SRM, C-60 is 60, C-120= 120 SRM, etc, etc.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Very interesting observation that I’ve never paid attention to. I never noticed that beersmith uses SRM and not °L for the grain values and just glossed over it. I wonder if Brad Smith could elaborate. I think he’s a member, but I don’t know his username. Looking at all the grain options it seems he’s using them interchangeably, ie. Crystal 20 is 20 SRM, C-60 is 60, C-120= 120 SRM, etc, etc.

Looking into this further I found an older thread on the Beersmith forum that addresses this issue, although it still leaves me a bit confused. Hoping @Oginme can chime in here to help clear this up, (at least for me).

https://beersmith.com/forum/index.php?threads/roasted-barley-srm.13355/

 

[mashdar]

https://www.brewingwithbriess.com/blog/wort-color-lovibond-and-srm/

AFAIK the two are used imprecisely and interchangably for grain. Morey is typically calculated with Lovibond malt color, so I wouldn't assume a conversion is needed.

FWIW color contribution of dark roasts is nonlinear, so even +-20% is probably ballpark enough. Ultimately you have to look at the beer (or put it through a 430nm absorbption measurement).

PS Ray Daniels has a good color overview in Designing Great Beers.

 

[Oginme]

Looking into this further I found an older thread on the Beersmith forum that addresses this issue, although it still leaves me a bit confused. Hoping @Oginme can chime in here to help clear this up, (at least for me).

https://beersmith.com/forum/index.php?threads/roasted-barley-srm.13355/

BeerSmith has incorrectly used the SRM label on the color of the grains throughout the different versions.

If you are using the Morey color equation, then you are best to enter in the grain color as Lovibond. I have not checked recently at what most of the domestic grains suppliers are using the last couple of years, but European and English maltsters have been using EBC and an equation to convert that to SRM for their grains in their marketing, technical, and COAs.

Since Lovibond and SRM are pretty close for lighter malt colors, there really is not much of a difference in using either. For darker beer colors, most of the time you get past a 300 SRM, the color difference is not noticeable.

English and European crystal malts have kept and continue to be made according to the old Lovibond colors based upon their name. This is, I think, more out of trying to maintain consistency with the past and not wanting the customers to panic over some of the darker crystals being renamed.

Overall, defining color through the SRM or Lovibond is pretty inprecise to begin with. The latest European standard uses the Tristimulus values for defining actual malt, wort, and beer color which gives a better indicator of color. Especially once you step away from running a straight barley grist for your grain bill, any attempt to predict beer color with Lovibond/SRM will result in some variation.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Brewed this today. My ground water is already warming up as we head towards summer. I could only chill down to about 75°f. I'm going to ferment with 34/70, on the warm side, but not THAT warm. Chilling it down before I pitch the yeast.

Hydrometer pic (yeah I didn't filter it), I hit my estimated OG pretty much dead on even though you can't see the reading. Pic is to show the color. I think it's going to be very pretty. Eventually.

 

[Pennine]

This one looks fantastic, two of my favorites Munich and Tettnanger. I might make this when my pils is done fermenting and reuse the yeast cake.

 

[beervoid]

BeerSmith has incorrectly used the SRM label on the color of the grains throughout the different versions.

If you are using the Morey color equation, then you are best to enter in the grain color as Lovibond. I have not checked recently at what most of the domestic grains suppliers are using the last couple of years, but European and English maltsters have been using EBC and an equation to convert that to SRM for their grains in their marketing, technical, and COAs.

Since Lovibond and SRM are pretty close for lighter malt colors, there really is not much of a difference in using either. For darker beer colors, most of the time you get past a 300 SRM, the color difference is not noticeable.

English and European crystal malts have kept and continue to be made according to the old Lovibond colors based upon their name. This is, I think, more out of trying to maintain consistency with the past and not wanting the customers to panic over some of the darker crystals being renamed.

Overall, defining color through the SRM or Lovibond is pretty inprecise to begin with. The latest European standard uses the Tristimulus values for defining actual malt, wort, and beer color which gives a better indicator of color. Especially once you step away from running a straight barley grist for your grain bill, any attempt to predict beer color with Lovibond/SRM will result in some variation.

I have a question perhaps you or anyone in this thread could shed some light on.

Do caramel/crystal malts give more color then calculated vs munich malts?

I'm asking cause I've had a recipe that was calculated at 12ebc with Pilsner and Crystal malt come out almost exactly the same color as one a recipe which had pale and munich malts which was calculated to be 3 points darker at 15.3ebc.
Both recipes where pretty much the same beer, og and fg.
I still use Beersmith 2

Thank you

 

[Oginme]

How are you measuring/judging the color of the two brews?

There are many things which impact the color of the brew. Is the clarity of the beers the same? How long is the path length (depth) you are viewing them? What is the light source?

Next, the ingredients are labels to be the target which the maltster is aiming for. Each batch/lot can vary from that since there is some process variability between batches and each maltster has a range which they consider their acceptable specification.

Did you measure out the grain quantities and how accurate were the measurements?

How old were the grains? Moisture content and storage conditions?

Then there can be the effects of process variability which can influence small variations in the product.

Additionally, when you look at the difference between the two brews described above the 3 points EBC difference is only about 1.5 points SRM. If you look at a SRM chart (https://homebrewrepublic.co.nz/useful-resources/srm-beer-colour-chart/) that difference between 6.5 SRM and 7.6 SRM is not as great as you would think, especially to the naked eye.

 

[beervoid]

How are you measuring/judging the color of the two brews?

There are many things which impact the color of the brew. Is the clarity of the beers the same? How long is the path length (depth) you are viewing them? What is the light source?

Next, the ingredients are labels to be the target which the maltster is aiming for. Each batch/lot can vary from that since there is some process variability between batches and each maltster has a range which they consider their acceptable specification.

Did you measure out the grain quantities and how accurate were the measurements?

How old were the grains? Moisture content and storage conditions?

Then there can be the effects of process variability which can influence small variations in the product.

Additionally, when you look at the difference between the two brews described above the 3 points EBC difference is only about 1.5 points SRM. If you look at a SRM chart (https://homebrewrepublic.co.nz/useful-resources/srm-beer-colour-chart/) that difference between 6.5 SRM and 7.6 SRM is not as great as you would think, especially to the naked eye.

Taken in consideration of the above, yes nearly identical brews for the purpose of comparing malt bills. Same glass, same lightening same haze.
On the other side I also had a pale+pilsner brew that was 12ebc and it looked considerably lighter then the others.

I have to conclude that different malts give off different colors, Crystal/Caramel probably giving more then others.