Does Oxidation Occur When Kegging?

[Jordan Logo]

Hello Everyone!

I just finished my Blonde Ale and wanted to ask a question about the infamous NEIPA before I start my next brew.

Does oxidation happen to an NEIPA when you keg, and keg carb? I hear horror stories about NEIPA oxidation so I wanted to make sure I don’t have to closed transfer my beer from fermenter to keg.

PS. Here’s a look at my Blondy

 

[mongoose33]

Oxidation occurs when oxygen comes in contact w/ the beer. If you can do a closed-transfer where the system is completely isolated from air (and oxygen), then it's not going to be oxidized.

This means racking into a purged keg clear of oxygen, as well as the lines used to transfer, and not allowing the surface of the beer in the fermenter to come into contact w/ air as you rack to the keg.

How much air/oxygen the beer can stand is an open question, depending on how well you do the closed transfer. Best rule of thumb: avoid air entirely. Second best rule fo thumb: do the best you possibly can, as perfection may be unattainable.

 

[jjw5015]

Yes, possibly even more so then bottle conditioning, because at least that may consume some oxygen while naturally carbing.

 

[Staticsouls]

If you have the ability to closed transfer, why wouldn't you? Any effort to reduce o2 is going to make for better end results.

 

[Qhrumphf]

As said, bottle conditioning does help scavenge some oxygen introduced during the bottling process.

However, kegging has the benefit of scale, so the proportionate headspace and TPO can be much smaller. Especially because it's easier to purge a keg of oxygen than a bottle.

There *is* the CO2 purity factor- CO2 tanks do contain a measure of oxygen, that while minute (like 99.9% CO2 and 0.1% other- including oxygen), is potentially enough to be a problem in something extra oxygen sensitive like a NEIPA.

 

[thehaze]

You can get oxidation no matter if you're bottling, canning or kegging. It's more about the process and the things you do or don't, to ensure that, first of all the beer looks, smells and tastes good/excellent, and then how you manage to carry that beautiful colour, aroma and flavour over to your bottle, can or keg.

Closed transfers are the way to go, especially with a sensitive beer like a NEIPA. But I think almost everybody agrees that kegging is the way to go when brewing NEIPA or similar, heavy hopped beers.

Cheers!

 

[Hopalong]

The ale looks nice...As the other brewers recommend, closed transfer and purging kegs with CO2 are the way to go.
Oxidation begins during the hour long high temperature rest when malt is added into hot water that is sloshed into a tun. It doesn't cause too many issues because homebrew is pounded down before the negative impact occurs. Bringing the temperature of boiling wort below 140F, rapidly, helps a little with lessening oxidation. My system uses a B&G air eliminator piped in the main water feed for the brewery and the steam boiler. It removes some air but being water there's oxygen in it. I use the decoction method which helps de-aerate the mash when it is boiling.
Kegging is the way to go, it makes a better conditioning tank than a bottle does. A keg is safer than a bottle because it has a relief valve, the same as a conditioning tank. Pressure can be easily monitored in a keg. The beer can settle in one keg and then transferred into another keg for conditioning and naturally carbonating.
NEIPA might be a sensitive beer due to excessive amounts of protein and Beta Glucan carried over into the bottle. When the by-products drop out, the beer changes character. The off flavors caused by the brewing procedure pop up and hop character diminishes as the beer clears. Large amounts of hops are used to make up for it.
If NEIPA is dry hopped issues with staling and oxidation will occur. Use a Randall instead of dry hopping.
Try six row malt, it's high protein malt and it imparts bright yellow haze and it's high in diastatic power. Buy some malt with high, fibrous Beta Glucan content and add it to the six row to ensure Beta Glucan is carried over to add chewy texture. (Beta Glucan content is listed on the spec sheet that comes with malt. If it isn't listed email the maltster for the info before buying the malt, ask for Kolbach, SNR, percentage of protein and pH, too.) To crank up ABV add some low protein Marris Otter (Baird 1823, the lower the protein the higher the sugar content) and soak everything at 150F until all the starch has liquefied. During saccharification Alpha releases more highly fermenting glucose and less sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar from amylose at 150F. Since, conversion is skipped only primary fermentation is required. The beer will need priming sugar or CO2 injection for carbonation. When conversion occurs secondary fermentation occurs and natural carbonation takes place during conditioning.