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Does anyone have any info on these pots? JARHILL 96/70 QT Stainless Steel Stock Pots

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i bought them and want to do dimpling and soldering but ive never done it before and dont want to F it up. I read the tutorial on here but im still scared to go out and try it.

Can you guys talk a little bit about your experience soldering this set of kettles?

I dimpled and soldered these pots with 1.5" tri clamp ferrules. Like you, I was a bit nervous about screwing it up so I first did a test dimple using a $1.69 stainless steel 0-gang wall plate I picked up at Home Depot.

I made the dimple tool from a PVC coupler, washers and bolt from HD and a 1" to 1.5" sanitary weld reducer I picked up off ebay.

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I was also nervous about screwing my new pots up, but I just went for it and it turned out great. I like the idea of dimpling because the solder stays in a little "trough" as it gets liquidus. Make sure you go slow with your drilling and not over shoot and make too big of a hole.

Also, if you make the dimpling tool, make sure the parts that are bending the pot are stainless (or plastic like above, but i'm not sure how they'd take the pressure). If you use regular steel, it'll embed into the stainless and you'll probably get some rusting.
 
In case anyone who is interested in these hasn't seen this yet, the seller is now selling the pots individually too.
 
Got mine in the mail yesterday. The 96 qt had a big ding at the bottom, I'll send pics and see what they do for me...


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mine also had a ding in the bottom (almost looked like a screwdriver poked it or something.. Im thinking of selling my 96qt anyway) and probably my 70qt also

Im thinking i will keep my 49qt and make the 120V BIAB, and keep my 60qt concord pot for gas BIAB
 
I just got 2 70qts this week. They look exactly as advertised. They are cheap pots that are perfect for electric brewing. The metal is a bit thin but that is fine because it makes dimpling and soldering a little easier. One of mine had a small dent near the upper lip but it was easily pressed back out by hand. If I were using gas fired I might be a little concerned due to the thinness of the bottom (there is no cladding or anything). There is also no way I would _ever_ want to move one of these with any weight in them, they are just not rigid enough for that kind of work nor do I think they were designed to be used that way.

BTW, if you buy more than one he combines shipping. I got my 2 delivered to my door for $87.19, bought them on Saturday afternoon and they were delivered the following Tuesday (I'm in the same state as he is so saved some transit time).

Next week I hope to have the rest of my parts and start dimple soldering my fittings in. :rockin:
 
FYI to anyone looking to purchase these pots. I have not had a good experience trying to get a refund for a damaged pot. The large pot came a big dent where the bottom was welded to the sides. The seller agreed to accept that pot back for a partial refund. I followed his return instructions, got a Fedex tracking number. The tracking number shows it was received. The seller is now saying he never received it - that it was sent to the wrong address and is offering a reduced refund. Sounds fishy. Much aggravation - definitely not easy to work with.
 
Great pots for the cost. I have 2 set up with elements. They're a little wide but works good for low my basement ceiling. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1403226569.010755.jpg


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A friend of mine just tried setting up a new brew stand with these pots...first run was not good....handles started to rust...and a ****ing pin hole on one of them on the welded seam...not good

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Yeah.

I built out a 25 gallon BK for a friend. Pinhole leak and rusty handle rivets. I silver soldered the pinhole closed and floated the rivets in a pool of silver solder to completely cover them. That kettle works fine, but seriously, I would choose a concord pot every time.

Cheers!

BSD
 
Wow, luckily I didn't have any holes with mine. That's troublesome to hear that a few people have gotten pots with holes in them. As for the handles rusting, I can report after 7 months of heavy use in a damp basement I have started to to see some rust spots on the handle rivets as well. Mine amount to a few specks of orange, not the cascading waterfall of rust that was pictured. I just gently rub with bar keepers friend and it wipes right off and is gone for 2-3 weeks and I do it again. Even with these imperfections I am still super happy with my purchase. I couldn't have gotten my whole eherms system approved by my better half if I had to spend another $1000+ on just the kettles. Schumed, in your case I think silver solder may be your friend.
 
I like the way you installed the heating elements, where did you get those?

Ebay.. I just greenly punched them. The pots have been fantastic for me with no rust or pin holes. There a great econo-pot.


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Just got this false bottom (which is a thing of beauty by the way) and it fits the 70 perfectly

That is a nice find! I used a domed bottom for a while from my 10g cooler and that worked pretty well. Earlier this spring midwest had one that was the same inner diameter of the pot on clearance and I picked it up for $29.99! When I got it it was a hair over 1/8 in larger than listed, doh! It did luckily fit over my dip tube port. I took my angle grinder around the out side of it. With the leg and handle position it was going to be tough to set up a jig to spin it and grind so I just kept moving it around and around, test, repeat. Then out of nowhere one side was slightly too small! Didn't think it would be too big of a problem because it didn't seem any larger of a gap than the holes, but it was sucking grain down the side. Had to get some silicone u channel to snug up that side...tack $15 on for that. All in all it works pretty well now, but kind of tricky to slide that u channel section on and get it in. Recirculation is way better now, not sure of efficiency changes. I got a mill about the same time and have been experimenting with the gap settings. Typically I am getting 85-90% brewhouse efficiency.
 
I ebrew in them often. No complaints at all. Easy to punch. They are easy to clean.


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A questions for the ebrewers using the jarhill pot as boil kettle.
The 17.5 gal pot (70qt) with roughly 8.5 inches radius would produce approximately, when filled with 6gal wort, a height of ~6.1 inches
[recall h = V / π*r2 ] and with 8gal (lets assume this is preboil volume) it would be 8.1 inches of liquid's height.

How high is your element installed?
 
I use the 20 and 25 gallon as boilers. I have both pots installed at about 2" - 3" up from the bottom.

The only issue I have is @ 5 gallons I'm barely over the element so I always have to do 10 gallon batches.


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I have mine as low as I could place it in the 17g. I think I only need like 4g to cover the element. A 5g batch in the 24g would be an issue as well as a waste of space!
 
I have mine as low as I could place it in the 17g. I think I only need like 4g to cover the element. A 5g batch in the 24g would be an issue as well as a waste of space!

Thanks! I am contemplating to keep the old e-keggle for boiling or, currently investigating, move into the 17gal for boil operations hence I put in 1/2 in ports into the keg for anything your could use as HLT (herms coil, sight glass, temp probe) later.
The element and liquid height seemed an issue but you guys helped!
 
Glad we could help! In my opinion for as cheap as these are, do them straight across the board. They are much lighter and easier to move and clean then a keggle. I sold my decked out one and went with these for a eherms system and they have worked great! The only caution is some people have gotten some that seemed to be less than satisfactory, but mine were great.
 

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