decrease in precipitates

[acm28]

Hi,
I'm new to beer production (I started at the beginning of the year) and I would like to know if you can help me with a matter.

I bottle and do priming and then, as expected, precipitates settle at the bottom of the bottle (possibly yeasts) the question is that I would like to know if it is possible to reduce these precipitates with filtration before bottling and still perform priming. If so, I would like to know how large the filter can be without harming the priming and if there is a better method I would like you to tell me.

(I just really want to reduce the precipitates, the turbidity doesn't bother me so I don't think it's worth using glues like gelatins and bentonites but if it's a solution to my problem, let me know )

Thank you for your help (and I apologize for possible english errors)

 

[fluketamer]

welcome to homebrew talk
the "precipitates" as you call them are homebrew sediment.

there are several threads on this.
there was a very recent one actually.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/bottle-conditioning-sediment.729854/

cold will compact the sediment in your bottles. gelatin and other fining agents will also make a tighter cake at the bottom of the bottle in my experience.

dont filter your beer the o2 that it will take up will kill it.

if you can, kegging and jump transfers after brightening will work very well.

4 liter oxebars hooked up to sodastreams in a regular fridge are you cheapest entry into kegging.

this will get you clear beer without "precipitiates" if you must

if you are going to prime then by definition you are going to restart fermentatin in your final package and will result in yeast cells growing and then dying leaving dead cells on the bottom of your bottles or kegs or growlers or whatever it is you are packaging in. thats why kegging with added co2 (not from yeast) results in much less sediment. (notice i didnt say NO sediment)


i was paranoid about sediment so i switched to kegging. my is beer is better i am convinced not because of the kegs but because of the length of time i am cold conditioning in those kegs. i think if i had more space and could cold condition my bottles for weeks then the beer would taste just as good as the keg.

less o2 exposure per package surface area may have something to do with it also.



my 2 cents

 

[acm28]

Thanks for the answer (and the brevity) fluketamer

 

[hotbeer]

Filtering is likely going to be a PIA. Some have done it. There is a Aussie or New Zealander on YouTube that shows how he did it.

I just let my beer remain in the FV till it is clear. A few times for up to six weeks. It doesn't hurt your beer to sit in the FV any more than it does to let it set in the bottles. And assuming you'll probably get some O2 into your beer when bottling it, it might be better off spending it's extra time in the FV from that standpoint.

 

[Rish]

^^What hotbeer said. All my beers and ciders stay in the fermenter at least 4 weeks and taste better than the ones I rushed to package when I first started brewing. If you have the ability to store your fv in the cold (35°F or so), this will also help clear it. Once bottles are carbonated, storing them cold for a week or so will help form a more compact layer of sediment, making for a cleaner pour if you do it carefully. Good luck!

 

[acm28]

^^What hotbeer said. All my beers and ciders stay in the fermenter at least 4 weeks and taste better than the ones I rushed to package when I first started brewing. If you have the ability to store your fv in the cold (35°F or so), this will also help clear it. Once bottles are carbonated, storing them cold for a week or so will help form a more compact layer of sediment, making for a cleaner pour if you do it carefully. Good luck!

I generally leave it in the fermenter for 3-4 weeks (depending on the density) and after bottling I wait another 3 weeks before opening it. After these 3 weeks, I always leave it in the fridge for 2 or 3 days and the vast majority of the sediment remains at the bottom of the bottle until at least the last glass (I use 0.75L bottles).
My initial question was whether it was possible to reduce these sediments, thanks to the answers to this topic I now have that more or less clarified
Thank you all!!!

 

[hotbeer]

Maybe it's just a question of what you think is too much sediment. Even if you put perfectly clean beer in the bottle. When the yeast do their thing to the priming sugar, they are still going to leave sediment behind. Which I assume is mostly the yeast and their progeny created during the week or two it took to consume the priming sugar. But it shouldn't look like the bottom of your fermenter did.

You say that your beer was left in the FV for 3-4 weeks. But had all the suspended stuff fallen out. When I was using clear fermenters and brewing pale ales and IPA's, I could see all the way across the surface of the trub layer to the other side of the FV when I considered it ready to bottle.

 

[balrog]

Maybe it's just a question of what you think is too much sediment. Even if you put perfectly clean beer in the bottle. When the yeast do their thing to the priming sugar, they are still going to leave sediment behind.

This.

If you bottle prime, the yeast wake up from primary fermentation, eat the priming sugar, make the CO2 that carbonates the bottled beer, then go dormant and settle out.

 

[fluketamer]

dont fear the sedimetn. i used to think my beer was off because it was the amount of yeast in the bottles and the tastes i was getting that i didn't like were from the dead yeast. its not . once i started controlling my fermentation temps it didnt matter how much stuff was at the bottom of the bottles, my beer tasted much better.

 

[acm28]

dont fear the sedimetn. i used to think my beer was off because it was the amount of yeast in the bottles and the tastes i was getting that i didn't like were from the dead yeast. its not . once i started controlling my fermentation temps it didnt matter how much stuff was at the bottom of the bottles, my beer tasted much better.

Yes yes, I know that the influence on the flavor is 0 or close to it, the only initial objective of my question was to know if it could be reduced for aesthetic reasons but in truth it is not something that bothers me much.

What's more, it's only in the bottle, because as I said before, when I pour it into glasses, in the worst case scenario, it's only the last glass that gets slightly "dirtier" (0.75L bottles).

 

[fluketamer]

you need to do the homebrew pour. a shoulder height 90 degree wrist rotation that lets the beer flow out of the bottle at an even rate all in one go stopping just before the dregs start to flow out with the beer. usually about 1/4 inch is left in the bottle. dont dump it chug it if yo like. lol

because of this it is very important to have beer glasses that are a little larger than the volume of your bottles. ( to account for the head) . you cant pour homebrew more than once and expect the dregs not to get stirred up good. so when i used to bottle, i would either only drink in 1 liter glasses or pour into a glass 2 cup measuring cup then pour that into smaller beer glasses as needed.

 

[Ninoid]

If you do carbonation naturally by adding sugar during bottling, sediment cannot be avoided. Leave the bottle in the fridge for a few days, slowly pour it whole into a glass so that you leave the last centimeter in the bottle and you won't have any problems. If you intend to use the bottle for the next round of beer, it is best to immediately rinse it with a little cold (or warm) water after pouring.
The problem only occurs if you want to take the beer with you and drink it immediately, without having it sit for several hours in the refrigerator, if the bottle was transported upright without too much shaking. Then the sediment will rise from the bottom and mix with the beer. The beer will be cloudy and will change the taste (for the worse, certainly). I solved that problem by transporting the bottles in a portable cooler.