Cypress keezer Build (In progess)

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Brewntang

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Hey y'all!

After getting a deal on a 5.0 cuft Haier chest freezer from Amazon, researching my needs, and sourcing materials, I have finally started my build. My original plan was just to do a basic 6" collar build but UPS literally dropped the package at my house and as a result I have a dented up freezer I did not want to showcase in the house. My fix is to build a base and 3 sided frame, wrap it horizontally with cypress boards mitered at the corners, and build a lid so that if/when the freezer dies, I can toss the old freezer and install a new one of similar measurement. This Keezer will have 2 taps and can fit (2) 5 gallon ball lock corny kegs without the need for a collar.

I have built the frame using 2 x 4's so there is a 1.5" gap between the boards and freezer. The freezer itself sits on some 90degree 2x4 triangles at the corners and I will install "rollerblade" style casters at the end of the project. The rear and bottom openings should provide some air movement as others have stressed about freezer acting as a heat sink. I will start on the cypress boards this week.

The comes the lid...My Plan for the lid is to miter 2x4's in the border of the freezer, and add another 2x4 border on the front and sides to flush it with the frame, add a sheet of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood to the top followed by cypress boards, then border the entire lid with cypress to flush it up with the body of the keezer. I will use aluminum foil to tape the corners, insulate (or double insulate) the interior of the lid and drill my taps through the front (ordered 6" shanks). I realize the lid will be heavy and I will definitely have to figure out something to prop or hold it open. I may try to offset it by an 1/8" or less on the inside so that the only pieces making contact are the inside border. Any advice/input/constructive criticism you can provide me for the lid will be very helpful as I am nervous about how it will seal with the additional thickness.

Here are some pics so far:

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Made all my cuts and threw it together yesterday. Still have to attach the trim around the freezer and the border of the lid but it will require more sanding and fitting because I am a total amateur at wood work.

Can anyone tell me what size drill bit is needed for a standard shank? I will have to travel through 4" of wood with it. Thanks!

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And one with my ugly assistant up top
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Love the look of cypress wood. going to do the exact same thing as you. Like the color.
Will you be putting a computer fan inside to circulate the air? What about temp control?
Great job.
 
Put the finishing touches on the keezer and positioned it behind the bar. Decided on an antique wax to match its surroundings better. I made the tap handles using my first hops and grain (may carve some others but these will do for now). First homebrew in fermentation right now and doing well. Hope to be enjoying it in 10 or so days!

One thing I did want to ask y'all: I was thinking of a the inkbird wifi temp controller for this keezer. If I plug a 3 way outlet into the inkbird and plug in both the fan and freezer to the threeway, would this be a better idea that the fan running 24/7 on a separate outlet? Obviously the compressor may run less with the air movement of the fan so maybe it is not a good idea but I wanted some second opinions. Thanks!

Here are the finished pics:
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It's a bit hard to determine from the pictures, but where is the freezer's condensor coil? Is that little hole in the back the only place where air circulation can go through? If this is the case then you will need to start saving for a new freezer that you are going to need pretty soon...
 
Unless they are on the bottom, I believe the coils are spread throughout the shell of the freezer. It is one of the risks I was willing to take with this project. If I have to change a craigslist freezer every year or 2 at around $50 it is one of the least expensive components. I built it so I could easily remove the top and replace the body. It has 1.5" of airspace on the enclosed sides with the 2x4 frame and the boards are not perfectly flush to one another so that should help a little. The hole is on the back and side. The back is open and I will keep it about 3" from the wall so there should be some airflow as the bottom is also on casters. Time will tell.

ETA: You did give me a good idea though. If I attach a computer fan to the rear and hook it into the same outlet run by the wifi temperature controller, it will provide some airflow only while the compressor is running (Hopefully it is not too much for the temp controller).
 
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